Morris Minor Owners Club

The 1098 is always going to be an issue if you go for max power and consequently high RPM, for a road car most people won't go much over 5000rpm. We have re-built a 1098 with a raised compression (around 8.5:1), re-shaped ports and combustion chamber, a high lift but modest duration cam, damped pull...

I used a beetle dual circuit cylinder with a fabricated frame to mount it in the standard position, it also allowed me to servo assist the front (disc) brakes only which helps with the balance, whole set up works a treat.

I've found lumenition to be great, only question I would have is is it rated to be fitted to the engine? Electronics don't generally like a lot of vibration, mines on the inner wing.

Lumenition seems to be about the best non OEM system I've found, one of my cars had it fitted when I bought it in 1995 and it's still going strong, beats 28 years of fiddling around with points and condensers. I've had issues with the sparkrite type systems and modern Chinese systems.

The stuff I have been using is that meant for a Ford IB5, 75W90 Bo synthetic, As that trans was developed (as the B4)in the early 70's and contains bronze. We had it in the original trans which sounded like bag of nails on engine oil, still sounded the same on the gear oil but didn't get any noisier...

might also be worth checking the internal bracing, this has a habit of cracking at the sides which allows the bonnet to spread a littke and sag in the middle.

Modern gear oils are nothing like the EP oils of the 60's the direction to use engine oil was probably the best there was 60 years ago but technology has moved on a bit since then. At the end of the day it's much the same discussion as using radial tyres, alternators, electronic ignitions, disc brak...

A magnetic mount on a piece of plywood or something similar should sit nicely in there with out the need to make any holes etc. I do find now that having google maps up can be quite a safety benefit especialy in an area I don't know, it shows you topology of the road ahead, any traffic you re likel...

One of the main reason for using engine oil in a Minor gearbox is that it clears the baulk rings quicker making synchronising the gears that much easier. https://www.classicoils.co.uk/news/2019/2/25/the-development-of-engine-oil-additives-zddp I sure that would be the case with the traditional EP g...

A magnetic mount on a piece of plywood or something similar should sit nicely in there with out the need to make any holes etc. I do find now that having google maps up can be quite a safety benefit especialy in an area I don't know, it shows you topology of the road ahead, any traffic you re likely...

I used a mK2 escort oil filter which seemed to work fine, on the gearbox oil personally I cannot see why with advances in tribology over the last 70 years anyone would use an engine oil in a gearbox now (particulalry after tearing a few boxes down), I use a multigrade gear oil (75w90)which has given...

For the springs the points I would check are: 1. Have they sagged? there must be dimensions somewhere of how to check this. 2. Wear ridges where the leafs slide over each other (they look OK in the pic). 3. Bulging with rust between the leaves. (they look Ok in the pic). if all the above look OK the...

we were going to go on the friday, but when it came to it £40 each to get in £20 to park and the joy of the M1 and M25 on a friday night made me decide otherwise.

Perhaps worth checking there are no air leaks between the head and manifold at the shared 1/2 port?

The reason for using a test lamp is if there is a high resistance a multimeter may read 12V but put some load on the circuit via a 5W bulb and the voltage drops away.

As geoberni pointed out it can't be the fuse box, the horn and other items are on differnt fuses and other things on the same fuse are still working, you realy need to set a aside a couple of hours and methodicly go through each issue.

The process for this is fairly simple and needs to be methodical. 1. From the wiring diagram identify the live feed to each of the affected components. 2. for each component Using a multimeter (or even better a 12V 5w test light) connected between the live feed above and a good earth check you have ...

A steel rawl bolt and slide hammer can work well.

I think they all are earthed via cables, possibly to a common point ?

I think most of the minilite type wheels are 5.5 inches wide, that is a bit of a stretch for a 145 tyre, the minimum recommended is a 165 tyre.