Timing chain insitu

[AndrewT]

My 54 gratergrill Morris is fitted with the later 1098 engine having had the car for around 5 years and acquiring some parts as I go I recently baught some gearboxes to mate the wizzard stick tale end to a 1098 gearbox (with some machining and use of a 948 tail end cut up) I'd like to also replace my timing chain set up (have acquired a mini back plate and cover ready to get a duplex chain system) as I don't want to remove the front grill (case of don't want to disturb what fits correctly) am I better off removing the engine once the gearbox has been modified and fit the box and new chain in one hit or do I do things as they come? I know this can only be decided by myself but the boxes will take some working out/time and machining so am in better just doing the chain first and plod on with the box what do you think? Also any info or people I can contact about the gearbox conversion would be a great help have a guy near me who is very good with a lathe etc somit more guidance and measurements that will be needed many thanks!!

[philthehill]

Andrew
The Mini front engine plate is not suitable for fitting to the Minor as it does not have any facility for mounting the front of the engine. You will still need to use the Minor front engine plate.
What Mini timing chain cover (photo would be appreciated) have you purchased as the later mini covers have the timing sensor bracket fitted which has to be removed and flattened out and the internal oil deflector flange may have to be removed when fitting the duplex.
The Minor timing chain can be replaced with the duplex timing chain set up without removing the engine but you will have to remove the radiator. The front grill can also be left in place.
When fitting the duplex you should fit the flat oil thrower plate which is marked 'F' for front and use countersunk screws at the bottom of the front engine plate which are Loctited in place.
Phil

[crossword]

I found that I could not countersink the bottom of the front engine plate with the engine in situ . If you are going to remove it anyway I would suggest that is the time to countersink .

Regards Andrew .

[AndrewT]

Right I see, I had the back plate with the cover found it at a autojumble always handy I guess for my mini then and yes it's the one with the sensor bracket to which I have already removed and flattened out haven't trimmed the in side yet as I don't know how much will need trimming until I come to fit,when I do come to remove the gears and chain to replace with new is there anyway inshouldnset the engine up such as pistons no.1 at tdc then remove and refit or can I simply just pull them off and replace where ever then engine has come to a stop?

[philthehill]

Andrew
Before removing the actual gears turn the engine to TDC on No:1 compression stroke and the timing dimple on the cam sprocket and the mark on the crank sprocket will line up.
You can then remove the nut and sprockets. Use a correct spanner or socket on the camshaft nut as if any other method is used the front white metal bearing could end up damaged.
The duplex gears must be aligned using the shims placed behind the crank sprocket.
I would advise replacing the cam thrust washer as a matter of course which is fitted between the cam sprocket and the front engine plate. The cam should have 0.003" - 0.007" end float.
The camshaft sprocket nut should be torqued to 60 - 70 lbf ft.
The front engine plate can be countersunk (82 degrees angle) in situ but you do need to be careful of the swarf generated - a powerful vacuum cleaner should take care of the swarf.
Use countersunk UNF allen screws as they are better for tightening.
Phil