Hello: Valve guide removal/install tool
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Re: Hello: Valve guide removal/install tool
44 ft lbf for the head nuts - 15 thou for the exhaust valve gaps. Retorque and reset gaps after the first heat cycle.
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oilypaws
- Minor Friendly
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- Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2010 8:42 am
- Location: Central North Island, New Zealand
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Re: Hello: Valve guide removal/install tool
Hi, I have read this thread with interest as I needed to do some head work on my latest acquisition - barn find, hasn't run for 30 years. Some of the valves were stuck, and after dismantling, I found that one of the exhaust valves is a bit burnt (small melted spot) and others have carbon build up on the seats, which leads me to think that the valve clearances were out when it was last run (I didn't measure them before dismantling). No wonder there was no compression.
Anyway I need one new valve - I think the others will be OK with a valve grind, and the seats in the head look OK.
* Should I be replacing the valve guides?
* Why should the newer type seals only be used on the inlet and not the exhaust? What should be used on the exhaust?
Nb: I ordered new valve guides with the groove for the new seals, and a set of 8 of the newer type seals. I also ordered a set of "O-ring" type seals just in case (they were pretty cheap), but I'm not sure if that's what is in there now - It's a 1956 803cc engine, and there's a rubber bit sandwiched into the 2-part cap that goes on top of the valve springs. It looks flat in section now, but may once have been an O-ring!
I don't have a press so I am wondering whether I attempt this job myself, or send it to a engine re conditioner who can also do a nice job of re-seating the valves too. Then of course, I should consider getting hardened seats fitted to the head as well (Nb: does this also mean replacing the valves with harder ones?)
Anyway I need one new valve - I think the others will be OK with a valve grind, and the seats in the head look OK.
* Should I be replacing the valve guides?
* Why should the newer type seals only be used on the inlet and not the exhaust? What should be used on the exhaust?
Nb: I ordered new valve guides with the groove for the new seals, and a set of 8 of the newer type seals. I also ordered a set of "O-ring" type seals just in case (they were pretty cheap), but I'm not sure if that's what is in there now - It's a 1956 803cc engine, and there's a rubber bit sandwiched into the 2-part cap that goes on top of the valve springs. It looks flat in section now, but may once have been an O-ring!
I don't have a press so I am wondering whether I attempt this job myself, or send it to a engine re conditioner who can also do a nice job of re-seating the valves too. Then of course, I should consider getting hardened seats fitted to the head as well (Nb: does this also mean replacing the valves with harder ones?)
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philthehill
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- Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
- Location: Hampshire
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Re: Hello: Valve guide removal/install tool
As to replacing the valve guide - it depends upon the amount of wear. If you can rock the valve in the guide I would replace.
Why fit the new type seals to the inlets only? - The exhaust valves need the lubricant. Unleaded petrol is dry and has very little if any lubricating qualities unlike leaded petrol. The exhaust valve without the lubrication can seize in the guide.
The flat rubber washer is original.
The valve shroud arrangement was fitted to restrict the amount of oil reaching the valve and valve guide.
The shroud arrangement was discarded on later engines and just the small rubber ring fitted. The small rubber ring is next to useless in doing its job and that is why the top hat seals were eventually fitted.
If you do not feel confident in replacing the valve guides get a engine restorer to do the job. The seats will have to be cut to suit the guide centres anyway.
From your comments it appears as though the valves need re-facing anyway which will need to be done on a special machine.
Fit unleaded valve seats.
You can use normal valves with unleaded seats.
Why fit the new type seals to the inlets only? - The exhaust valves need the lubricant. Unleaded petrol is dry and has very little if any lubricating qualities unlike leaded petrol. The exhaust valve without the lubrication can seize in the guide.
The flat rubber washer is original.
The valve shroud arrangement was fitted to restrict the amount of oil reaching the valve and valve guide.
The shroud arrangement was discarded on later engines and just the small rubber ring fitted. The small rubber ring is next to useless in doing its job and that is why the top hat seals were eventually fitted.
If you do not feel confident in replacing the valve guides get a engine restorer to do the job. The seats will have to be cut to suit the guide centres anyway.
From your comments it appears as though the valves need re-facing anyway which will need to be done on a special machine.
Fit unleaded valve seats.
You can use normal valves with unleaded seats.