Traveller rear bootwell replacement

[GheeBhow]

Hi all, I'm hoping for some advice please. The rear of my traveller is pretty solid given it is original and hasn't been restored (and the wood is fine too) - but the bootwell panel has definitely seen better days, as have the bottom corners of the inner arches.

The arches I can make repair panels for and weld in - but is it possible to replace the bootwell panel without stripping the rear end completely? Of course I'd need to take off the bumper, remove the wooden boot floor to get access and so on. But is it possible??

Thanks,
Neil

[ManyMinors]

Perfectly possible. I had to replace mine. You can purchase the new panel from Morris Minor specialists. I removed the fuel tank on mine as a precaution and then cut out all the rusted original metalwork. Access is not great with the wood frame in the way rather but it would have been a very big job to remove all the wood!

[GheeBhow]

Great, thank you ManyMinors. That's what I'll do then!

[GheeBhow]

Can I ask another question about this please?

How was the bootwell originally attached to the inner wing, along its side and at its back edge? Is it usually spot welded along the flange underneath, or seam welded at the edges of the two pieces of metal?

I've started to dismantle the back end to get the necessary access. I think the bottom brackets and corner brackets that connect the bootwell to the corner posts will also need replacing. Anything I should bear in mind when doing this? I'm planning to loosely put them in place when I eventually weld in the bootwell panel - otherwise I think I might struggle with the space to get them in with the wood all still being in place.

Thanks,
Neil

[RobThomas]

Neil.

A good (awesome?) guide to the job is in a restoration thread on here written by "TAUPE". Some of the best Minor panel work we've seen on here. I don't have a link but a search of the resto threads should give you the info you need.

[Mark Wilson]

Pretty sure it was spot welds, although mine was mainly rust! I had the luxury of full access but still found that I had to seriously reshape the new inner wing to fit the sharp angle in the new boot floor. Hopefully retaining the existing inner wing will make the panels a better fit. Photos below of mine loosely clamped together might give you a clearer picture of the relationship of the panels than the murky hole behind your wood!

[GheeBhow]

Great photos Mark, thanks. And to Rob for the tip off about the link. I'll take a look for that now.

Had a coach bolt shear yesterday, although the other three seem fine. Why is there always one which goes?...

[mogbob]

Neil
With stuck and sheared bolts when doing a restoration , the approach /secret is to plan for / expect at least 3/4 to " be a pain ".They've been exposed to the elements for decades. They were never assembled with copper ease to aid disassembly. A good wire brushing , plenty of soaking with Plus gas dismantling fluid gives you a fighting chance of getting nuts and bolts undone. A tap on a bolt head with a big hammer . The application of heat , if it looks as though nothing is going to move.

With this mind set , if you've only had one sheared bolt then you can congratulate yourself that you've had a really , really good day in the garage !! It's just a short delay , another new challenge to occupy your mind. When your restoration is finished it is soon forgotten.

Keep cracking on , you'll get there , it won't beat you.
Bob

[GheeBhow]

Thanks Mogob! Encouragement indeed! I think I've been pretty lucky with nuts and bolts so far - no complete disasters, although I'm about to ask another Q, about rear spring hangers. Taking off the underseal has been an eye opener...