Sorry, my mistake, you're quite right. Must have had a brain storm or something.
The distibutor goes clockwise to advance. The little wheel goes anti-clockwise (clockwise-not).
Good timing
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MikeNash
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 784
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 9:09 pm
- Location: Hurstbourne Tarrant, Andover, Hants.
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Axolotl,
You say that the workshop manual gives an extra 3 degrees of advance when done dynamically, ie total of 6. I can't find that in mine manuals, and like to know where its quoted. I don't disbelieve you, I just wonder if my manualc are out of date, superceded or incomplete.
Mark,
On the face of it, a dynamic setting should be better than static 'cos it takes up all the wear in chains and gears, etc which are difficult to allow for when doing it statically.
Finally Mark, I've never had the courage to do it in the bmceccose on the road manner, for while it sounds reasonable there is a doubt to my mind that if you have a high octane fuel with a low compression engine (that's ALL standard minor engines these days) you risk having too much advance before pinking starts. But if there's any tuning been done, esp increased compression, its sounds a simple practical method.
Regards, MikeN.
You say that the workshop manual gives an extra 3 degrees of advance when done dynamically, ie total of 6. I can't find that in mine manuals, and like to know where its quoted. I don't disbelieve you, I just wonder if my manualc are out of date, superceded or incomplete.
Mark,
On the face of it, a dynamic setting should be better than static 'cos it takes up all the wear in chains and gears, etc which are difficult to allow for when doing it statically.
Finally Mark, I've never had the courage to do it in the bmceccose on the road manner, for while it sounds reasonable there is a doubt to my mind that if you have a high octane fuel with a low compression engine (that's ALL standard minor engines these days) you risk having too much advance before pinking starts. But if there's any tuning been done, esp increased compression, its sounds a simple practical method.
Regards, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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MikeNash
- Minor Addict
- Posts: 784
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 9:09 pm
- Location: Hurstbourne Tarrant, Andover, Hants.
- MMOC Member: Yes
Axolotl,
You say that the workshop manual gives an extra 3 degrees of advance when done dynamically, ie total of 6. I can't find that in my manuals, and like to know where its quoted. I don't disbelieve you, I just wonder if my manuals are out of date, superceded or incomplete.
Mark,
On the face of it, a dynamic setting should be better than static 'cos it takes up all the wear in chains and gears, etc which are difficult to allow for when doing it statically.
Finally Mark, I've never had the courage to do it the bmceccose way, ie on the road, for while it sounds reasonable there is a doubt to my mind that if you have a high octane fuel with a low compression engine (that's ALL standard minor engines these days) you risk having too much advance before pinking starts. But if there's any tuning been done, esp increased compression, its sounds a simple practical method.
Regards, MikeN.
You say that the workshop manual gives an extra 3 degrees of advance when done dynamically, ie total of 6. I can't find that in my manuals, and like to know where its quoted. I don't disbelieve you, I just wonder if my manuals are out of date, superceded or incomplete.
Mark,
On the face of it, a dynamic setting should be better than static 'cos it takes up all the wear in chains and gears, etc which are difficult to allow for when doing it statically.
Finally Mark, I've never had the courage to do it the bmceccose way, ie on the road, for while it sounds reasonable there is a doubt to my mind that if you have a high octane fuel with a low compression engine (that's ALL standard minor engines these days) you risk having too much advance before pinking starts. But if there's any tuning been done, esp increased compression, its sounds a simple practical method.
Regards, MikeN.
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
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alex_holden
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 3798
- Joined: Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:46 am
- Location: Burnley
- MMOC Member: No
Is it possible to have too much advance before pinking? I thought the idea was to ignite early as you can without causing preignition.
Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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Axolotl
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 357
- Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 11:14 am
- Location: Burghfield Common
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I found it in Brooklands Books 1992 reproduction of British Leyland Morris Minor Workshop manual, 1970. "General Data, 1098cc Engines 10MA, 10ME and 10MV, Issue 6", page 14. Under "Distributor":-You say that the workshop manual gives an extra 3 degrees of advance when done dynamically, ie total of 6. I can't find that in my manuals, and like to know where its quoted.
Timing: Static 3 degrees BTDC, Stroboscopic 6 degrees BTDC.
I notice that the General data for the 948cc engine only gives static figures.
Cheers, Axolotl.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.
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MikeNash
- Minor Addict
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- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 9:09 pm
- Location: Hurstbourne Tarrant, Andover, Hants.
- MMOC Member: Yes
Thanks Axtotl,
I'll give that a try.
Alex,
Yes, you can have too much advance before the onset of pinking, etc. But note that pre-ignition is something different than pinking and it sounds different. Pinking is the self ignition of the remaining combustion gases BEFORE the flame front from the spark ignition gets across the chamber. The pink is the actual noise of this detonation - its an explosion rather than a burning. Pre-ignition is typically caused by a continuing glowing bit that won't go out, like from excessive carbon in the head or too hot (or in old palance too soft) a plug. Pre-ignition is much gruntier a sound, no soft tinkle and makes the engine extremely rough.
Last year I managed to set up the ignition on my 1098 at 10 degrees BTDC (goodness knows how!) and it didn't pink but it was rougher and noisier. Basically, the current lowest octane fuel is higher than the original design expected - and there's no harm in that.
If you set up your timing the bmc road way especially with, say, low compression pistons or with the sidevalve engine, it would work but you'd need to take care you didn't give it too much.
Bbut that said, I think its time I gave it a try! Regards, MikeN
I'll give that a try.
Alex,
Yes, you can have too much advance before the onset of pinking, etc. But note that pre-ignition is something different than pinking and it sounds different. Pinking is the self ignition of the remaining combustion gases BEFORE the flame front from the spark ignition gets across the chamber. The pink is the actual noise of this detonation - its an explosion rather than a burning. Pre-ignition is typically caused by a continuing glowing bit that won't go out, like from excessive carbon in the head or too hot (or in old palance too soft) a plug. Pre-ignition is much gruntier a sound, no soft tinkle and makes the engine extremely rough.
Last year I managed to set up the ignition on my 1098 at 10 degrees BTDC (goodness knows how!) and it didn't pink but it was rougher and noisier. Basically, the current lowest octane fuel is higher than the original design expected - and there's no harm in that.
If you set up your timing the bmc road way especially with, say, low compression pistons or with the sidevalve engine, it would work but you'd need to take care you didn't give it too much.
Bbut that said, I think its time I gave it a try! Regards, MikeN
Morris Minor, the car of the future. One day they will all look like this!
The only limitations are 'pinking' or kicking back against the starter. As long as it's doing neither - all is well. BTW - if doing the strobe light thing - be sure to disconnect the vacuum advance first because it pulls the timing up by 5/10 degrees at idle depending on the spec of the unit. But setting that way is only a rough guide - you are setting to some arbitrary figure stipulated years ago - and no doubt with a safety margin built in. It's never going to be 'just right' for your engine running on your favourite brand of petrol. The pinking and back-off slightly method sets it exactly.
