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Re: barrie's project
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 1:56 pm
by westy24
jaekl wrote:Assuming you are talking about the rear wheel sliding in and out, you need to determine where the relative motion is. Is it bearing inner race to housing or bearing outer race to hub. The latter can be confirmed if the outer race does not protrude a bit from the hub. The former is more likely and should be prevented if the axle nut is fully tightened. From your photo it does not look fully tightened.
The brake line T on the differential should be laid over. It is attached by a bolt through the hole and the hose is horizontal. Unless the photos are upside down the wheel cylinders need to be flipped. The pistons come out the bottom not the top.
I have tightened the hub nut up . It doesn’t move from the inner race . It’s in the outer race . I haven’t fully fitted the drive shafts . Would that stop movement .i have a new set of bearing.. il have to check the cylinders again later if there correct . I spent all day yesterday doing them , and trying to find information on which way they go . Il post more pics as well !
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:22 pm
by westy24
jaekl wrote:Assuming you are talking about the rear wheel sliding in and out, you need to determine where the relative motion is. Is it bearing inner race to housing or bearing outer race to hub. The latter can be confirmed if the outer race does not protrude a bit from the hub. The former is more likely and should be prevented if the axle nut is fully tightened. From your photo it does not look fully tightened.
The brake line T on the differential should be laid over. It is attached by a bolt through the hole and the hose is horizontal. Unless the photos are upside down the wheel cylinders need to be flipped. The pistons come out the bottom not the top.
Ok iv taken photos , the diff is the right way up the following pic is of the brake cylinder ,,,,,, is it the right way up ???
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Mon Jan 08, 2018 7:28 pm
by westy24
It must be the right way up as on the pic because I fitted it the other way and the handbrake cable was at a funny angle
Here are other pics of the back of the cylinder and the handbrake cable in relation to the cylinder arm
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:39 am
by westy24
Rear brake and cylinder
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 6:47 am
by westy24
Now the main problem I have is the play in the hub , these following pics are the in and out movement on the outer race .your thought guys would be very very helpful as i only have limited knowledge and I’m learning !???
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Tue Jan 09, 2018 1:36 pm
by jaekl
Your wheel cylinders are correct, the photo was upside down. As for the hub, you need the half shafts to clamp the outer race of the bearing and that will prevent any movement.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 6:43 pm
by westy24
Iv now fitted the new bearings and can safely say it’s all fine and dandy, the shafts are in , brakes all done and adjusted up , all the brake pipes are now connected ,I just need to change the 3 way connector position and fill with oil , but il do that when it’s on the car and on it’s wheels. Thank you for all your help, I start worrying when there’s something that doesn’t seem right
, iv learnt a lot this week with the help from you guys.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Thu Jan 11, 2018 8:13 pm
by mogbob
I'd slap a bit of grease over the end of the hand brake cable ( the nipple, clevis pin and yoke ). Keeps everything moving freely and stops the rust fraying the end of the cable.
Split pins. I was always taught to bend the two "legs " back on themselves , encasing the clevis pin , cutting off any surplus length. Always leave some metal , so you can get pliers on to remove it.
It always satisfying getting a few little jobs under your belt , it inspires you to crack on with the resto.
Well done ,great work.
Bob
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:10 pm
by westy24
mogbob wrote:I'd slap a bit of grease over the end of the hand brake cable ( the nipple, clevis pin and yoke ). Keeps everything moving freely and stops the rust fraying the end of the cable.
Split pins. I was always taught to bend the two "legs " back on themselves , encasing the clevis pin , cutting off any surplus length. Always leave some metal , so you can get pliers on to remove it.
It always satisfying getting a few little jobs under your belt , it inspires you to crack on with the resto.
Well done ,great work.
Bob
That’s a good idea, il do that. Yes I didn’t get round to bending the split pins over yet , just another thing on the list ,thank you . Iv been a busy bee today with my son and wife, I got the door fitting , and fitted the wing and front panel , and the n/s wing . Had a huge tidy up coming away with two bin bags full of stuff. Iv also fitted the bonnet but not fully adjusted it yet , but it looks like it will fit a treat! Also iv moved the car around ready to crack on with the back and the sill and floor
I’m one happy chap
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:16 pm
by westy24
I think I’m being over fussy on the door and wing gaps , but iv settled with reasonable even gaps , the wing gap is a little to big , but I’m happy to let it go. Here is my trainee for the day , getting to grips with a ratchet and getting his knees dirty wearing his new overalls specifically for helping me, he even cried when he put them on because he looks like me and now he can come and help instead of staying at home.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:20 pm
by westy24
So far so good
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:20 pm
by firedrake1942
He's a real credit to you.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 4:58 pm
by westy24
Started to cut the other sill off today and repair the inner quarter and inner a pillar .
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 4:59 pm
by westy24
Had to weld in a little support on the cross beam so it wouldn’t move
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:02 pm
by westy24
Then proceeded to weld in the front lower repair floor panel and offered up the other sill panels to make sure it’s all in the right place.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:32 pm
by westy24
I also found the boot lid doesn’t fit at all , the top fits but down the sides is tight , I think il have to remove the back panel and try. And push them out a tad when fitting the new back section as it doesn’t fit there either
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2018 5:43 pm
by westy24
And the floor sat in ready to be cut to size , but first I need to remove the back section and make a new one so I can weld it in before fitting the floor fully . So in two weeks I’d fit the rest of the sill panels fit the rear floor section , fit the floor, try the door on and weld in the quarter section then tackle the inner rear arch , then mess around with the back panel/ quarter!
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 8:42 pm
by austerdriver
Very nice work! Hope you don't mind me asking have you fitted spring washers or shake proof washers on the brake back plate bolts under the nuts they look a bit short on length? don't want then coming loose. might be the photo angle maybe.
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:48 am
by westy24
austerdriver wrote:Very nice work! Hope you don't mind me asking have you fitted spring washers or shake proof washers on the brake back plate bolts under the nuts they look a bit short on length? don't want then coming loose. might be the photo angle maybe.
Correct they are not the correct bolts . I need to get the right ones and the correct washers and nuts
Re: barrie's project
Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:49 am
by pgp001
Just as a matter of interest, what are other peoples thoughts on using spring and shake-proof washers.
Personally I hate the things and after doing a bit of internet research it looks like they need avoiding.
http://www.boltscience.com/pages/helica ... ashers.htm
Even NASA have concluded they are no good.
https://ntrs.nasa.gov/archive/nasa/casi ... 009424.pdf
Phil