Service Checklist.

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viewsonic1
Minor Fan
Posts: 211
Joined: Tue Sep 03, 2013 11:20 am
Location: Burton on Trent
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Service Checklist.

Post by viewsonic1 »

Does anyone know of a Service Checklist anywhere on the web for the MM? Thought I could print one off for every service and use it for my records. Thanks.
chickenjohn
Minor Legend
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Location: Margate, East Kent
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by chickenjohn »

There is a checklist on this very club website under the tech tips section:- http://www.mmoc.org.uk/index.php?page=330

WEEKLY CHECKS:

1. CHECK TYRE PRESSURES.

2. CHECK ENGINE OIL WITH DIPSTICK

3. CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL (reservoir is under the carpet where your left heal goes)

4. CHECK WINDSCREEN WASHER LEVEL

5.CHECK RADIATOR LEVEL AND REFILL WITH A MIXTURE OF ANTI FREEZE AND WATER.

6. CHECK ALL BULBS WORK ESPECIALLY THE BRAKE LIGHTS


EVERY 3000 MILES:

Top up the dash pot on the carb. This unscrews by hand. Add a small amount of thin oil until it is 1/2 inch above the interior lip. If you overdo it will escape from the little hole in the top.

Tighten the fanbelt as necessary I try to turn the generator pulley by hand If I succeed easily the belt needs tightening. Do not overdo this as it will wear out the water pump bearings

Grease all the grease points. There are two on each leg, one on each steering arm ball joint, one on each handbrake cable, two on the propshaft and one on the steering rack. This last one only requires oil not grease. It is possible that the handbrake cables and the propshaft do not have the nipples any longer as new parts often have these deleted.

Adjust the brakes. While the front wheels are off for the greasing, you can get at the brakes. Look through the hole in each drum with a torch. You will see two screw head adjusters in each of the front drums. Turn each clockwise until it locks and then come back one click. If you reach the end of the adjustment but you can still turn the drum the shoes need replacement.

The rear brakes are adjusted in the same way but there is only one adjuster per side. This is at the front of each drum. Do this with the handbrake off and make sure the cables do slack when the handle is down.

The Clutchshould have 1 1/2 inches of play on the pedal (3/4 on non 1098 models). If not, then the adjuster is between the gearbox and the chassis leg. Be careful as there is a locknut on the end off the rod as well as the adjusting nut. Lubricate all the joints while you are under there.

Oils: Check the gearbox oil level. The filler is accessed from inside the car. Lift the carpet on the passenger side and remove the filler plug. The oil should be to the bottom of the filler hole. Use engine oil to fill it except on the MMs which require EP 90. Also check the axle level. Remove the filler plug and the oil should be to the bottom of the hole. Use EP 90 on all models.

Series II and MMs only: Change the engine oil and filter. The Later MMs have a disposable element on the nearside of the engine. Use the normal 1098 element for this. Series IIs have a canister type on the offside. Warm up the engine first: Remove the plug on the bottom of the sump and give it ten minutes to drain. Remove the filter and replace it. I often leave the old sealing ring in place as they are difficult to replace and are good for several filters. Don't forget to put the plug back. Refill the sump with fresh quality oil. Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine over on the starter until the oil pressure warning light goes out. Then replace the plugs and start the engine. Check the filter for leaks before driving off.
EVERY 6000 MILES:

Repeat the 3000 mile service with the following additions:

Engine oil & filter: On the 948 and 1098 engines change the engine oil and filter. The filter housing undoes by removing the long bolt through the centre. Always check it for leaks after replacement.

Adjust the tappets to a clearance of 12 thou' with the engine cold. Use the crank handle to turn the engine so that each valve opens (rocks from the horizontal). Use the 'one in nine' rule to find which is now fully open - ie. if nunber 2 is tilted then no 7 is ready for adjustment (7+2 = 9). You can use a tool from SPQR that allows for the wear in the valve train but this is not totally necessary.

Remove the distributor cap and check inside for cracks and wear.

Replace the points and the condenser. Turn the engine over with the handle until the points are fully open. Set the gap to 15 thou' with the feeler gauges. If you have a timing light then set the dwell angle to 60 degrees. If not just set the gap correctly.

Set the timing with a small test bulb. This goes to earth on one side and to the springy arm in the distributor. Turn the engine over with the crank handle until the timing marks are correct. You can use the knurled wheel on the side of the distributor to adjust the timing (if fitted). If not or you run out of range then you need to move the distributor body. Slacken the locking bolt and turn the body until the light just comes on. Check it by making slight movements of the distributor so the bulb flashes on and off.

Replace the spark plugs with new. Set the gap to 25 thou' on 1098s and 22 thou' on the others.

Top up the oil in the steering rack through the nipple in the passenger footwell. This is towards the top left of the well and should be covered with a rubber plug. Give it a couple of squirts with the gun.

Replace the paper air filter with new. The earlier ones were an oil bath and can be washed and used again.

Odds and sods: If the water pump still has a grease point then give it a couple of shots. Oil the hinges latches and locks. Remove the filter from the fuel pump and clean it. Remove the black cover from the fuel pump and clean the points with fine sandpaper.
EVERY TWO YEARS:

Replace the brake fluid. This is due to the fluid attracting water through the flexible hoses. This causes corrosion and reduces the heat dissipation effectiveness of the brakes. Remove the cap from the brake master cylinder and top up as necessary. Use a brake spanner to loosen the bleed nipple on the rear offside brake. Fit a flexible tube to the end to guide the old fluid into a jar. Get a friend to pump the pedal down and then close the nipple. Call " up" and then open the nipple when they have released the pedal. Open the nipple and call "down ", a squirt of rusty fluid will go into the jar. Repeat this until the new fluid comes through. You need to do this for all four wheels. It takes around 20 minutes to do all four. Alternatively you can use silicon brake fluid so you only ever have to do it once. The fluid is more expensive but it saves on a lot of labour.

Replace the grease in the front hubs. Remove the drums and the grease caps in the middle. Remove the split pins and undo the nuts. Note that the left hand side is a left hand thread. The hubs can now be levered off and washed. Re- grease the hubs and replace them.

there you go!
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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chickenjohn
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Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 8:50 am
Location: Margate, East Kent
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by chickenjohn »

A couple of things I do differently to the above is change the oil every 3000 miles or annually.

and every time the front of the car is jacked up and the wheels off grease the trunnions and track rod ends. you can't grease these too often.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
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Chipper
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by Chipper »

I tend to top up the carb dashpot (HIF44 on mine) every week, more or less!

I would also add lubricating the door hinges and locks every once in a while, with 3-in-1 or similar.
Maurice, E. Kent
(1970 Traveller)
mike.perry
Series MM Registrar
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by mike.perry »

Chipper wrote:I tend to top up the carb dashpot (HIF44 on mine) every week, more or less!
I would suggest that you are topping up too often and overfilling. The excess will burn off until the correct level is maintained.
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Chipper
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Location: Kent
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by Chipper »

Sure - you may well be right. I'll try leaving it for a while longer and see what happens...
Maurice, E. Kent
(1970 Traveller)
philthehill
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by philthehill »

What you want is a Castrol inspection/service sheet as advertised on 'e Bay' item No: 200951732250.
They were used when I worked at the BMC main dealers in the 1970s.
They used to be kept in a plastic folder also supplied by Castrol so you had a complete service record for the vehicle.
The BMC Wksp Manual states in the Maintenance Attention section that all grease nipples (except steering rack) should be greased every 1000 miles. NOT 3000 miles between greasing's. Despite opinions to the contrary greasing the Minor every 1000 miles is NOT over kill. The Minor needs grease like a fish needs water. Seen too many failures due to the lack of servicing/greasing to make me think otherwise.
Attached are copies of the BMC Minor service schedules. You could make up a tick off spread sheet which includes all of the required operations to maintain a Minor in a serviceable condition.[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
Last edited by philthehill on Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

lambrettalad
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Re: Service Checklist.

Post by lambrettalad »

this should be a sticky :D
Cheers Alex
all thoughts are given in good faith but..." You pays your money and takes your choice"


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