Big Crank Pulley Nut Removal
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- Minor Legend
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- Joined: Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:10 pm
- Location: North Bedfordshire,
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I'm a bit worried about bending a con rod or lifting the head by blocking the piston with rope - whats the verdict folks? Do you think its more straining than the ignition cycle? or am I just worrying too much?
I'd like to do the front oil seal but couldn't get the drive dog off. Roger sold me a nice big ring spanner - so I will be having another go in the winter.
I'd like to do the front oil seal but couldn't get the drive dog off. Roger sold me a nice big ring spanner - so I will be having another go in the winter.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
DO NOT try to jam rope into anything ! Inertia WORKS!
But you need to be brave - really heavy blows with a hammer are what's required - to be honest I use an 18" Stillson wrench on the starter dog , and whack it as hard as I can - no wee 'Ladies' taps - big hefty blows with a 'wee heavy' hammer. The dog unscrews - maybe not at the first blow - but it DOES come off!
But you need to be brave - really heavy blows with a hammer are what's required - to be honest I use an 18" Stillson wrench on the starter dog , and whack it as hard as I can - no wee 'Ladies' taps - big hefty blows with a 'wee heavy' hammer. The dog unscrews - maybe not at the first blow - but it DOES come off!
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- Moderator
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Well, Roger. Why not try BMC's method of just whacking it without stopping it rotating and see if that works for you. If not then you can jam something in the flywheel ring gear to stop the rotation. OR use the starter motor method for undoing.
Thing is though, you can't tighten it up enough to 70 foot pounds using no jamming as it will just turn the engine round and round...
Thing is though, you can't tighten it up enough to 70 foot pounds using no jamming as it will just turn the engine round and round...
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- Minor Fan
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- Minor Fan
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Use the starter. Also, how does the lock washer lock?
I know this only applies if the engine is still in the car, but, Icouldn't shift the crankshaft starter nut either. It had been fitted without a locking washer, using loctite (I think).
I have the right 3/4" Whitworth combination spanner, about 1' 6" long, but I couldn't shift it using "normal" methods like hitting it with a 4 lb lump hammer or a 7 lb weight. Remember this is still in the car, so access for a good swing is not easy.
I Finally got it off as follows:
1) Plugs out
2) Place 7 lb weight on near-side front chassis leg, neatly bridging the brake pipe that runs just where the spanner is going to hit, to form an "anvil".
3) Place ring end of spanner on crankshaft nut with open end just at the top of the near-side radiator mounting.
4) Gear in neutral.
5) Try to start engine.
The spanner spins down onto the anvil with enough force to break the loctite seal and the nut spins undone (at the sixth attempt, in my case).
This technique was given to me by the local Morris Minor clinic, who reckon it is the method they always use. If that doesn't work, they resort to the oxy-acetylene to heat the nut up red hot then repeat as above.
Not for the faint-hearted.
Now, this leads me to the question about the locking washer.
How does it lock? The Haynes manual shows it bent down into a recess in the pulley on one side, and up against the nut flat at the other side, but my pulley doesn't have any recesss for the washer to lock into.
Any suggestions? Is the lock washer really necessary, since mine had been assembled without, and obviously wasn't spinning itself off in any great hurry.
I have the right 3/4" Whitworth combination spanner, about 1' 6" long, but I couldn't shift it using "normal" methods like hitting it with a 4 lb lump hammer or a 7 lb weight. Remember this is still in the car, so access for a good swing is not easy.
I Finally got it off as follows:
1) Plugs out
2) Place 7 lb weight on near-side front chassis leg, neatly bridging the brake pipe that runs just where the spanner is going to hit, to form an "anvil".
3) Place ring end of spanner on crankshaft nut with open end just at the top of the near-side radiator mounting.
4) Gear in neutral.
5) Try to start engine.
The spanner spins down onto the anvil with enough force to break the loctite seal and the nut spins undone (at the sixth attempt, in my case).
This technique was given to me by the local Morris Minor clinic, who reckon it is the method they always use. If that doesn't work, they resort to the oxy-acetylene to heat the nut up red hot then repeat as above.
Not for the faint-hearted.
Now, this leads me to the question about the locking washer.
How does it lock? The Haynes manual shows it bent down into a recess in the pulley on one side, and up against the nut flat at the other side, but my pulley doesn't have any recesss for the washer to lock into.
Any suggestions? Is the lock washer really necessary, since mine had been assembled without, and obviously wasn't spinning itself off in any great hurry.
Cheers, Axolotl.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.
I know that you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I am not sure you realize that what you read is not what I meant.