Almost all of the material in the 448 pages, is new or hasn’t been reprinted since the 1940’s original publications. This book is a good large read for the average motor enthusiast. An essential reference for the serious Morris & Wolseley owner / enthusiast, and can also be used as a photographic reference along with being just a great coffee table browse for the casual enthusiast.
Discuss Bodywork problems here. |
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
The gutter is nailed on through the roof. Then the inner side of the gutter is folded over the nail heads.
I guess you have to bend the inside of the gutter up to reveal the nail heads, but they use those nails you knock in and are barbed so that they don't come out.
Good Luck, Hope you don't damage the roof.
This message board is like a family - you can't choose the other members!! But remember engine oil is thicker than water.
The easiest way to remove the guttering is by using a wide 11/2" wood chisel or bolster, it must be very sharp. Place the chisel on the top edge of the gutter and against the roof, angle the chisel away from the roof abd sharply tap it, this will easily cut through the nails. Follow the proceedure all the way around the roof taking care not to contact or dent the alloy roof.
Yes , most traders will stock it. I'd suggest that if possible you collect it as the last thing you want is for it to be bent in transit. We use S.T.Foreman of Woodies for all of our wood sets and fitting kits ,he will gladly offer you advise on how to fit the guttering. If you get stuck though, just ask.
Just make sure that who ever sprays the car, will etch prime and topcoat the roof edge before you fit the guttering. This is often a neglected area and a constant area for corrosion/erosion of the alloy roof and the underlying panel pins which attatch the roof prior to pinning on the gutter.
Get them to run a thin bead of wet on wet seam sealer on the top edge of the gutter when it has been etched and primed ,to give a good seal. You can create an invisible sealed joint with not too much effort. All adds to longevity.
Out of interest, is the guttering steel, and would tha lack of seam sealer explain the rust stains at the edge of a Traveller roof I saw the other day and took to be the roof rusting? I didn't know at the time that they were alloy, BTW.
They are aluminium as far as I know. Pretty much all the structure rearward of the roof seal is aluminium on the traveller (except the wood and floorpan of course! ).
The rear guttering is aluminum, I would imagine that the 'rust' you saw would be the eroding of the alluminum . Often the roof gutter is fitted to an unprepared roof and left unsealed which leads to the problem you saw. In the worst case, sometimes the roof and gutter are fitted to unprepared wood, which then only recieves its correct treatment once on the car, this has even more dire results.
Could it be the nails (?) doing something weird with the alloy?
Onne van der S. MMOCno 60520 Moderator
2dr 1971 White DAF 55 (with hopefully a 1600cc engine soon)
2dr 1973 Bergina (DAF 44)
2dr Estate 1975 DAF 46 in red
2dr saloon 1972 DAF 44 in Mimosa
17 posts • Page 1 of 1
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