Morris Minor Owners Club

Fair enough re forgetting my name - as you'll have guessed, it was me, As for "polite PM first" - nope, not that I know of. Generally a PM afterwards if it's something (like this) that NEEDS to be removed, but I chose to leave the explanation in situ. Why wouuld your second post be edited? No danger...

This thread is raising alarm bells among the Mods - could we drop the threat of horror stories now? I think PLENTY has been said, and enough offers of more provided, and it would be wise not to sail any closer to the legal wind, or the thred will be modified/locked.

They're tough old bolts, since they take the full suspension forces of the car. I say again though, I've never been lucky with drilling them out/saving the plate for tapping, but you may be luckier that me. I'd also be seriously consdering paying a pro to weld in the cross member repair as well (ful...

Right at the top of this (and almost all board pages) page, you'll see "FAQ Search Memberlist Usergroups Profile You have no new messages Log out".
Yours shouldn't say "You have no new messages". but 1 private message or something. Just click on that, and you'll see it waiting for you.
a

Oh damn.I've never had any luck with that problem, I'm afraid. I've tried the easy outs in the past, but without luck. I meant to say earlier that you should be V careful using heat on them, as the bolts are long and the heat will be heating up the oil in the damper. The plate is sort of get at-able...

"no servo - compare like with like" Of the two of us, I'd say that I'm the only one who has, just as I'm the only one of us who has fitted them, "difficult" M/C valve and all. Surely efficiency would take into account the heat build up and ability to work reliably for longer than the drums, let alon...

Threaded plates, FWIW, but it's a GOOD point

Undo the 4 bolts passing through it that you can see, after bending back the lock tabs. 1/4" W, IIRC

bmcecosse wrote:Err - well no -they are NOT more 'efficient' !

Err - well YES -they ARE more mechanically 'efficient' - hence the use of the word.

Oh, not again Because they're useful for slowing/halting the car, just like your beloved bigger drums, only more efficiently. As you well know...

...although entirely dependent on whether it's OFF ROAD or not - hence the name. If it is, you're laughing. AFAIR, it has to have an MOT to be even parked on the street - please shout if I'm wrong.

One idea was to go for pick up/van springs, could these be adapted to fit? What is the difference in mounting to the chassis? Mounting @ the front completely different. 'Eye' in spring different size, mounted to a steel rod projecting from chassis. Ray assures me it's possible - I wouldn't. The van...

Conversely - has anyone built a trav on a chassis? Effectively the same conversion only backwards. I recon that would be a good stiff car with none of this uni-body/monocoque nonsense to worry about. You'd run into various probs at the front, where the Trav body 'steps' and the chassis is straight....

AFA ICS, the rearpanel would bolt to the roof - I could check tomorrow, have both. The prob would be the lower half - I was idly planning out fabbing a combination of Trav (to make the doors fit) and 4 door/p-up/van (to make the cab back fit) pillars

the flywheel from the outgoing 1098 engine will need to be slightly modified for use with the 1275 crank. Not strictly true - will need redrilling to a different bolt pattern and (AFFAI can see) a new centre for the g box input shaft inserted, along with appropriate bush/bearing. All available read...

Different lengths

...and it's Motif (a single decoration, such as a symbol or name on a piece of clothing - like the Bull badge on a Morris), not Motive I'll shut up

Peetee wrote: you should never get under the car with timber supports of any kind.

Not strictly true - IF you're stuck, timber is a far better/safer alternative than brick/concrete.

NOT the same roof as a Trav, which use 2 door cars as a base, but the P-Us and Vans use the 4 door. Only interchangable with a LOT of work - I've researched it...

Not meaning to be awkward here, but how on earth would a "wrong cap" alter the firing order? I guess the plug leads might be hard wired in the wrong order, but have no idea if early motors had leads like that