Morris Minor Owners Club

thats a good one when setting the timing chain as in the hand book the woodruff key has to be set at tdc the timing marks for tdc are at the bottom (6 o'clock ) does the key go to 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock? on the dizzy where would no1 ht lead be positioned towards the bulk head or towards the radiato...

so no 4 cylinder would become no1 cylinder for the firing order

scratch that. if it points 180deg the other way with it being offset the cam would have to be 180deg out. i think

the drive shaft is offset so it only goes in one way i think. if its in the other way round the rotor arm will point in the other direction to number 4 cylinder. when the piston for number 1 cylinder is at tdc the rotor arm is in the afor mentioned position.
rotor arm to no 1 plug

possition of the rotor arm for no 1 cylinder at tdc is about half way between 3 & 4 oclock position as you look at the dizzy
i have not checked the mechanical advance will look at that tommorrow

same old problem but here goes ive a 662dr saloon 1098 got the engine back together and started to time the engine do'nt like stobe lights so i use a 12v bulb on the points. set the crank pulley at 3deg moved dizzy till the bulb lights like the book says and it runs awful. dosent pull and coughs and...

thanks for that bob
off in the garage now

why does my rotor arm point to the bulkhead for no1 firing pistion? just had an engine rebuild. no1 piston is at tdc the valves for no4 cylinder are rocking the dots on the crank and cam gears are pointing together the notch on the crank pulley is lined up with the timing chain cover for 5deg i have...

has any one got any tips on renewing the demister hoseing
i took mine off and it was all perished.
or has any one found an alternative

thank bmcecosses
ive done some searching and found this link
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/ignition/ig104.htm
whats been throwing me is the 2 white/black wires coming from the loom. ive been looking for an individual wire linking the coil and dizzy. the 2 wires must be 1 in the loom

i have just rebuilt a 66 2d saloon and have converted to an alternator . the old loom was a mess so a brand new one was purchased with wiring for an alternator . now comes the wiring up and pluging every thing in place. all went well up to the ignition side of things. out of the loom that leads to t...

thanks LouiseM. spent a while searching and lost my self. i'am no electricly minded, hate the stuff. its a black art to me. thats all i needed to know. if i join A & A1 i can remove the control box and tidy up the bulk head loom. i'll move the fuse box inside the car. i am going for a clean un-c...

after looking at the wiring diagram from louiseM
the cables at A1 & A where do they go?
with a view to removing the control box,
what do they do?
can they be removed?
can they be joined together?

or
has any one fitted an alternator and removed the regulator and made a tidy job of the wiring.
info and pics or links would be helpfull

i know this sounds stupid but have you got them in the right way round. there is a thrust side to the bearing.

i have a 66 2 dr saloon that has been totaly stripped down to the shell for restoration. there is nothing on or in the shell whatsoever.the car runs on a dynamo but when i rebuild it i would like to run it on an alternator. do i buy a loom for the alternator car? or do i buy a loom for the dynamo ca...

yes i know these are new.what i meant was now that the dizzy is in bits might as well refurb it with new.

looks like it's a strip down and inspection. thanks

think it would be best to invest in some new ones in the long run.

yes i know. the domestic belongs to her, or so i am told, and the barbi is mine. what better way to spend an afternoon with your friends and have a beer cooking a ring gear knowing your not going to get the 3rd degree from her indoors. a most enjoyable afternoon