Morris Minor Owners Club

I used a broadly similar arrangement of trestles. One thing I found useful was fitting heavy duty castors to the trestle feet, which allowed me to adjust the position in the garage fairly easily. Not having the luxury of a two post lift (me, jealous?) I did lift the shell onto the trestles with a ja...

I've no real experience or opinion of the difference between the brands, but I did like the humour of an American expert who explained that the way to tell good Champions from bad ones was to put them in a bucket of water. The good ones would float...

Not disagreeing that it would be better to have the circular flange, but it only seems to assist positioning rather than any significant contribution to strength. My new legs (secondhand unused, manufacturer unknown) didn't have the circular flange but there was enough evidence on the floor and cros...

kennatt wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 19, 2020 8:38 am

exhaust bulge for left and right hand drive.

Don't think changing to lhd involved changing the cylinder head, but as I'm sure Kennatt knows that, I'll treat it as a humorous suggestion!

I can't be much help to you apart from the Traveller part of the project, but I have found you a T shirt!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Austin-Morri ... Swqu9VCv~a

Mark

I've said this in another post in the last few days, but I had the same symptoms and fitting a new solenoid did not cure them. The answer was to ensure that the body of the solenoid earths really well to the bulkhead, by cleaning the mounting screws and the adjacent metal. I was surprised at how str...

I mentioned a couple of days ago that my solenoid had failed. When the new replacement (which I already had) "failed" as well I investigated a bit further and found that the earthing of the solenoid body was the problem. Scraping a bit of paint from the bulkhead behind the solenoid, cleaning the fix...

Good point (no pun intended). I've contacted ESM who are happy for me to adjust it and return it if that doesn't work.

Has anyone had experience of the electronic version, ie are they more reliable?

I purchased and fitted a new SU conventional (not electronic) pump after the diaphragm on my old pump went porous. This has been ok for a couple of weeks of occasional engine starts, but yesterday I found that it wasn't delivering fuel. Soon sorted with the old tap the pump routine, but I had fitted...

If the doors are 36" it probably would have started life as a Traveller, in which case the floor pan would have been a single pressing spanning between the sill structures. The structural legs are not a chassis as such, they are open topped rectangles in section with top flanges spot welded to the f...

He does say it's a 30" door, so not a Traveller.

Traveller (and 2 door) doors are a smidgeon over 3 foot wide. The traveller body is identical to the saloon, monocoque with integral chassis legs and a central cross member, except that the upper body is different from the B post back. There is no separate cab as such. It sounds as though you do hav...

The clue is in the instruction to contact by email, not through ebay...

Thanks Taupe, that arrangement looks sensible even if the second bracket was missed in "the book". Looks like I've taken the 22m as being the length of the bottom leg, but should have been the total length from the top of the bracket. (Typed before I saw the plans. These clear up a little mystery - ...

I've never seen a "real" one in the flesh, but this is my version of it - a small repair bracket from B & Q! I estimated the upper dimension from the picture in the book, and someone on here advised me that the bottom leg, which can't be seen on the book, is 22mm long.

I fitted an HS4 to a reconditioned 1275. I had problems getting it to run other than on full choke, although it would fire up and run very roughly. The solution was partly timing, but I did find that I needed to set the AAU needle a lot richer than the normal 12 flats down initial setting, about ano...

I used rub on lettering as sold for model making. Bit fiddly to line up, but looks ok to me. I did buy one of the complete panel stickers, as Phil's link, some time ago, but really didn't think it looked too great. Happy to post it to anyone who fancies one!

If you are rebuilding I recommend you do change the diaphragm. I rebuilt mine using the existing which looked OK and was pleased that it worked really well. Less pleased when I found petrol oozing from the diaphragm joint, took it apart, cleaned the faces and tightened the screws, still leaked. My u...

If you mean the glass to the rear doors, it is traditionally bedded in a dum-dum type bituminous sealant between the outer frame and the glass, but more modern cartridge sealants can be used. Don't use silicone based goo as this can affect future paintwork projects.

Is the carb standard, eg 1 1/4" HS2? If it had been changed to a larger 1 1/2" HS4 these are usually equipped with waxstat jet mechanisms, which respond to changes in air temperature and could therefore account for the problem arising in hot weather? The waxstat mechanisms are known to be unreliable...