Morris Minor Owners Club

I've had a lucas sport one on one of my cars for 20 years /100,000 miles and it still works perfectly still, but I have found what comes in a Lucas box nowadays is often cheap far eastern rubbish , for the minor I bought a Bosch high output coil which I took off to fit the correct one for the A+ ele...

What is the purpose of the wire and engine steady? My other cars with approaching 4 x the power don't have them (tr7v8, lotus elan) so I left them both off and it drives perfectly, I wondered if it was to do with the mechanical clutch, I converted ours is hydraulic.

Kevin

I believe the tie bar would have originally been welded to the lip on the edge on the bonnet (based on ours having torn welds there).

I used bonda primer then stone chip when I restored my tr7V8 back in 1995, 100,000 miles of all year round use later only a few areas have gone mostly seams where the moisture has got between panels. I'm not sure if the bonda primer you buy now is the same stuff though. Recently I have been using ep...

I remember my dad had similar springs on his Consul Classic, I'm not sure you would get them in with a 2" air gap on a minor. The bump stops they use on many modern cars which are a foamed polymer are much more progressive than rubber and are used as a spring assist in many applications, I'm sure so...

Pretty much what I did as well.
this was how the coil had failed.
I think the wire was supposed to be a length of flexible braid but the solder had made it completely rigid.

It’s not going to get any better if it is worn bearings. Fix it, or it is likely to cost a lot more or even scrap the engine. Read kennatt’s earlier post (on Friday). To be honest it wouldn't be the end of the world if it did it cost £100 and has done a couple of years with no problems, we have a c...

New one on ours lasted less than 1000miles, I don't think the modern ones are up to the vibration of being mounted on the engine.

Phil, Some of these seals fail before a restoration has even been completed and the car back on the road. This is especially the case in the MG scene. They just crack and break up. I put it down to ozone problems. Regards Declan All the bushes had cracks in them before we finished our restoration (...

We'll see how it goes, at the moment it only makes the noise for a couple of seconds when it has been standing for a couple of weeks, the hot idle oil pressure is around the 50psi mark and it pulls like a train, the filter conversion I've got does have a one way valve so it'll be interesting to see ...

Did you check the new pilot bush fitted over the end of the input shaft before you fitted it? Quality of pattern parts can be a bit variable nowadays, it might need reaming a little. otherwise check for burrs on the splines and if there is not one already adding a lead in on the pilot bush makes lif...

Did you check the new pilot bush fitted over the end of the input shaft before you fitted it? Quality of pattern parts can be a bit variable nowadays, it might need reaming a little. otherwise check for burrs on the splines and if there is not one already adding a lead in on the pilot bush makes lif...

This is bit different in that after 4 or 5 seconds the oil pressure is up and it goes quiet so no problem priming, I was wondering if the oil can drain back into the sump through the filter pulling in air via the rockers etc. I really need a diagram of the oil circuit , from the description in the m...

After our 1098 has been sitting for a few days for the first few seconds after it starts there is a noticeable bottom end knock / rumble. It starts virtually instantly even from cold, the oil pressure is good (40 psi at idle when hot), aside from a bit of timing chain rattle sounds fine at all times...

Any good quality epdm hose should do fine, it's roughly a metre long but does depend on how it was installed and routed i'd go go for 1.5 m to be safe.

It took myself and my 18 year old son only a couple of hours to change it from underneath, everything was new though and we have the luxury of a 4 post lift(I had put the clutch plate in back to front).

I usually rip all the non standard wiring out get the standard set up correct and working then make any changes I require.

If you just want to get it running you could disconnect all the original wiring it only needs a live feed to the coil and fuel pump to run.

Whatever you use it will penetrate better if you can either warm the car up or wait until warmer weather.

In the past I have always used waxoly thinned with 30% new engine oil, this penetrates very well but does stay a sticky mess, for the cars already trested (the longest is my TR7V8 which was 25 years/ 100,000 miles ago) like this I have stuck with it. recently we have tried dynax on the newly restore...

If the rack housing isn't symetrical (ie the pinion housing is larger) you won't get the same amout sticking out of each side at straight ahead would you?