Morris Minor Owners Club

Do you have a test meter? If so, there should be 12 volts across the switch when ‘off’ and very little when the brakes are operated. Or high resistance when opened and virtually zero resistance when closed. Either test actually checks the switch. Touching the two wires together only indicates which ...

philthehill wrote: ↑

Sun May 17, 2020 7:17 am

Before you do anything you must make sure that both types of rings are interchangeable with the piston ring groove by measuring the fitted rings.
Ring fit data is in the BMC wksp manual.

If they are interchangeable my preference would be to use the Hepolite 3 piece ring.

I’ll second that.

Checkout the wiring arrangement for modern vehicles? I expect there are relays concerned, but all modern vehicles light up with dip beam, on selecting the headlamps by the normal on-off switch. Main beam flash is usually separate - but Peugeot and Citroen vehicles at least used to be able to select ...

One problem might have occurred long ago. The reuse of locking tab washers.

Or mangling the washer at time of straightening same will at least exacerbate any problem of easy removal.

kennatt wrote: ↑

Wed May 13, 2020 6:58 am

well done at last,but I wouldhave had it off 10 days ago with the hammer and cold chisel

Has it taken that long, just to remove one nut?!?

An impact air tool might work?

I’ve never had to go to those lengths, thank goodness ! :o —- and must have been lucky to have avoided pockets of water. Only a problem with motorbikes, I would guess? The master cylinders and reservoirs tend to be open to the elements a tad more than any car. Air is being drawn in and exhausted to...

Your ‘theory’ is only an hypothesis, until proven to hold true under the given constraints. I can’t even begin to count the times my initial thoughts have been wrong 🙂, so I don’t try to draw conclusions until all the results are in and collated. An open mind, to all possibilities, is better than tu...

I have a set of about 80 gauge blocks ranging from 0.1001” up to 4” (presumably a little more precise than ‘just 4”🙂). Imperial, not metric, but that does not bother me. They date from November 1960, but good enough for me as nearly all will still ‘wring‘ together. They could give me both the ‘feel’...

The centre main bearing was found to be the problem area in one of my engines which only ‘rattled’ at cold start - reason was simply because I thrashed it at high revs back then. That was a five bearing crank which presumably flexed - numbers two and four mains showed shell wear only on one side, wh...

The scroll seals worked (almost) perfectly well, long before crank case ventilation was converted to be negative pressure devices with closed crank cases. 0nly when the pressure became particularly positive, and the engine was well worn, did problems arise.

Edited to move a comma!19:18h

All this talk of cold chisels, etc. I have found, in the past, that most lock-tabbed nuts (excluding rusted installations) are only difficult to remove because the locking tab is interfering - usually by multiple use or by ‘kinked’ metal while fitting or undoing the tab-lock. Properly flattening the...

I (literally) ‘liked‘ your video. A good, simple video to ‘repair’ or service - rather than replace. Is this one @ about half that price (delivered) no good? Likely no better and probably less durable than the originals? Are similar to originals available at £30? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/floor-...

Their origin (electrical connection), might help as might their polarity (same or not) might make suggestions more appropriate. Certainly not a common item, for sure. Knowing how they are connected might simply prompt suggestions of what to do with them.

First question is how exactly did you check for sparks? I might expect the distributor dried out while you were messing around under the bonnet.

The copper of the slip ring has a finite thickness. When it is gone it is new slip ring time🙂 That ferrule/bush is the one I was referring to. With two bolts (instead of the original long bolt for the dynamo) the front bolt fixes the position of the pulley and the rear bolt would tighten up pulling ...

It only fell out as you took it apart, but fairly clearly that was your problem. That slip ring definitely could do with flatting - as good as the ‘un-rubbed’ bits. Easy enough if you have a wide range of abrasive sheets, but not much cheaper (if you need to source the abrasives) than unsoldering th...

That is what I thought, but couldn’t quite correlate(?) how fast that engine must have been revving to average over 65mph!

I expect it is brushes. It usually is. A fiver for a set (at most?) and like as not you would only need one of the pair.🙂. The centre brush will still likely have a huge service life left. No need to remove the alternator from the car (in this instance) to replace. Remove electrical connector(s), re...

They consume 2W apiece. Hardly going to make a lot of difference, as the warning lamps are off most of the time and main beam is not used much of driving time (unless you are nocturnal!). The alternator, if fitted, requires sufficient current to initially energise the system (the rotor is not a perm...