Morris Minor Owners Club

https://www.gcpawn.com/search/product.p ... =703000067

Not far off. TMS4EK Snap On Speedbrace handle.

So, the top one in this pic is a likely candidate. I think the raised digits are all worn away.

Thanks for the pictures. very helpful.

Nice! Still got the rubber bits on the battery stay, the wooden battery rails and still has wire-wrap hose clips. Those bits aren't common over here. The coil and battery clamps would be on my list of things to look out for. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Any chance of a photo of the top and bottom ...

I bought some panels but the edges were poorly defined, necessitating some hefty whacking with hammers. In the end I made my own for the second side.

This shows the factory optional radiator blind for later cars. This has a pull cable with a lock so you can adjust how high the blind gets pulled up, against a spring. Rolls back into the little holder at the bottom of the front edge of the radiator.

Were available in Midget/Minor sizes a while ago. Minifin branded.

Aaaaargh. Clicked the link and it had 14 seconds to run. Too late to log in.

They don't have to be amazingly tight and the bolt head can be shaved down so it wedges itself in the gap.

They are Metric threaded bolts and are easy to find. Not sure of the thread size without checking. Don't ESM still have the top casting for sale?

Thin down the heads of a couple of bolts (Dremel or file) and Araldite them in? No other options, really, unless you can Tig weld.

BCA4378 listed for Morris 1000s. Picture is of a slotted dome head set-screw. Haven't found a cross-ref listing for it.

Just to confuse the issue, J4 and Cambridge wheels LOOK the same as Morris 1000 wheels, have 4.5 or 4 inch width but have 4.5 PCD. They take Minor 1000 hubcaps, too, instead of Series MM ones. Central holes for 'locating' are bigger by about 5mm on the MM. Morris 1000 wide wheel on the Morris 1000 r...

2.31 feet of water exerts 1psi. Reservoir in the top od the dash?

Had a look on ESM site. No sign of 4.5 PCD steel wheels. Are you talking about alloys?

I have one original pump that makes a noise like a sledgehammer whilst others are just a gentle clicking. I ASSUME the new diaphragm is clouting the alloy chamber at the end of the stroke. I keep a spare with that car, just in case. Never had to use it in 2 years of ownership.

FWIW, I'm 100% in agreement with Phil.

Look like 948cc Herald?

https://www.canleyclassics.com/?catalog ... d-manifold

Might have a NOS 482 going on Ebay as soon as I can work out how to use it.

Is there anywhere with a write-up on exactly how the valve is designed to function?
Thanks,
Rob

Wot Phil said. Inserts are not hard to source and pretty much any engine shop can fit them. Get all 4 done at the same time. New valves aren't hard to find. Well worth doing.