Morris Minor Owners Club

a heavy knocking once it's warmed up would usually be big ends, I'd drop the sump and take a look, it's pretty straightforward to do. idealy you'd also measure the journals with a micrometer, but if you can't get hold of one new shells are likely to provide a short term improvement. main bearings ar...

Sounds like a plan, I'll probably stick to just the 6 leaves, it's used laden and for towing quite a bit and on the standard springs it hits the bump stops all the time , given the springs we have are used they should have settled a bit too so I hope it will end up around the standard ride height. I...

Thanks guys, you've reinforced what I was already thinking, I have spax adjustables on my TR7V8 and they are all pretty much at the bottom of their adjustment any thing else is way to firm, then thinking a bit deeper my elan is on std oil ones, I don't supose the minor will handle like that but if t...

Having recently replaced the oil in the lever arms one is now predictably leaking, Looking around ESM do a telescopic conversion for much the same as a good quality recon pair of lever arms, for another £50 they offer a gas damper version, I know the gas ones are supposed to help with aeration etc b...

if you get one of the modern inverter machines they flatter those of us with less than perfect welding skills.

and when you are slowing down it's even worse, the inertia of the vehicle, engine and driveline drives the engine against a closed throttle making it a very effective vacuum pump.

have you tried it with the vac advance removed and plugged? could be it's over advancing on decel, it does sound like a inlet leak though, which perhaps gets worse as things warm up.

Might also be worth doing a compression test, could be a head gasket beginning to go between 2 cylinders or valve clearances.

Here is a picture of the assembly before it went in the car. At the time I wanted it to be reversible, so I bolted it in but yes you could just weld the front abutment plate in. 20170113_200404.jpg I also narrowed the mounting flange and added the aluminium clamp plate, the all the joints are design...

Is it just the picture or have you ground the m/cyl body to clear the cross bolt? Could a front mounting plate be welded in so cross bolts eliminated and the holes used to route resevoir and brake pipes? There is a 8mm front plate the cylinder bears on, this in turn is welded to two side plates whi...

Here is the beetle cylinder in ours.

Anyone found a source for good wiper arms and blades? the wiper mechanism on ours is fine but they jump and judder over the screen. Ours has uprated brakes with a dual circuit master, laminated heated screen, 4 inertia seatbelts, an inertia switch on the fuel pump, is re-wired with 15 fuses, street ...

we have corsa front brakes, std rear brakes a beetle dual circuit master cylinder and a 1.7 :1 servo on the front brakes only, works a treat with a firm pedal and the fronts locking up just before the rears, you shouldn't need a residual pressure device, just adjust the rears regularly. I can't see ...

You could stamp a plate with the engine number on the v5 and attach that, it's what they do on modern cars when they replace the engine.

I'd be inclined to move the coil onto the inner wing, subjecting them to engine vibration is not ideal and many of the modern ones simply don 't seem able to tolerate it.

does it start then cut out as you go back from the crank to run key position?

If so it would be typical of a failed ballast resistor or something in the ign circuit.

As above work out what electronic ign you have draw out all the wires you have and where they go.

yes it's a anti run on valve Ford fitted them to some mk2 escorts(and probably other cars) as well.

the valve closes when you turn the ignition on then when you key off it opens and makes the mixture very weak such that the engine won't run on.

The only problem you might come accross is that the stud hole in the head is too small for the larger helicoil drill, if you have a scrap head just drill the hole out in it, if not drilling a hole in a piece of hardwood in a drill press and using that to kerp the drill square works for a one off.

I would suggest the bolt came loose then it cracked with the bolt torqued up it shouldn't see any great stess at the back face as it will effectively be a homogeneous part of the crank, lose the clamp force and all the bending load will then pass through the bore and be trying to open it up giving a...

looks like it's got a central pin that locks the barbs try pulling it out or pushing it in.