Morris Minor Owners Club

I mentioned a couple of days ago that my solenoid had failed. When the new replacement (which I already had) "failed" as well I investigated a bit further and found that the earthing of the solenoid body was the problem. Scraping a bit of paint from the bulkhead behind the solenoid, cleani...

Good point (no pun intended). I've contacted ESM who are happy for me to adjust it and return it if that doesn't work.

Has anyone had experience of the electronic version, ie are they more reliable?

I purchased and fitted a new SU conventional (not electronic) pump after the diaphragm on my old pump went porous. This has been ok for a couple of weeks of occasional engine starts, but yesterday I found that it wasn't delivering fuel. Soon sorted with the old tap the pump routine, but I had fitted...

If the doors are 36" it probably would have started life as a Traveller, in which case the floor pan would have been a single pressing spanning between the sill structures. The structural legs are not a chassis as such, they are open topped rectangles in section with top flanges spot welded to ...

He does say it's a 30" door, so not a Traveller.

Traveller (and 2 door) doors are a smidgeon over 3 foot wide. The traveller body is identical to the saloon, monocoque with integral chassis legs and a central cross member, except that the upper body is different from the B post back. There is no separate cab as such. It sounds as though you do hav...

The clue is in the instruction to contact by email, not through ebay...

Thanks Taupe, that arrangement looks sensible even if the second bracket was missed in "the book". Looks like I've taken the 22m as being the length of the bottom leg, but should have been the total length from the top of the bracket. (Typed before I saw the plans. These clear up a little ...

I've never seen a "real" one in the flesh, but this is my version of it - a small repair bracket from B & Q! I estimated the upper dimension from the picture in the book, and someone on here advised me that the bottom leg, which can't be seen on the book, is 22mm long.

I fitted an HS4 to a reconditioned 1275. I had problems getting it to run other than on full choke, although it would fire up and run very roughly. The solution was partly timing, but I did find that I needed to set the AAU needle a lot richer than the normal 12 flats down initial setting, about ano...

I used rub on lettering as sold for model making. Bit fiddly to line up, but looks ok to me. I did buy one of the complete panel stickers, as Phil's link, some time ago, but really didn't think it looked too great. Happy to post it to anyone who fancies one!

If you are rebuilding I recommend you do change the diaphragm. I rebuilt mine using the existing which looked OK and was pleased that it worked really well. Less pleased when I found petrol oozing from the diaphragm joint, took it apart, cleaned the faces and tightened the screws, still leaked. My u...

If you mean the glass to the rear doors, it is traditionally bedded in a dum-dum type bituminous sealant between the outer frame and the glass, but more modern cartridge sealants can be used. Don't use silicone based goo as this can affect future paintwork projects.

Is the carb standard, eg 1 1/4" HS2? If it had been changed to a larger 1 1/2" HS4 these are usually equipped with waxstat jet mechanisms, which respond to changes in air temperature and could therefore account for the problem arising in hot weather? The waxstat mechanisms are known to be ...

Just taken these, so quality affected by poor light! The first two show the space at the top of the door and how the seal fills the gap. There's a tiny fraction more frame showing beneath the roof than ideal, but stretching the aluminium over isn't easy! The last blurry one shows the bottom of the s...

Sorry, should have read your original post more carefully! You are correct, the book isn't quite as clear as I remembered, the best photos being on pages 112 and 117. I've fitted the seals to my new wood recently, so let me know if you want pictures from any particular viewpoint. Mine''s a 71 (manua...

If you haven't already got it, the Ray Newell/Steve Foreman Morris Traveller book is very good on this sort of detail. Not cheap, though!

Woo hoo 😊 Cracked it! I took a few days off the car and pondered, during which time Accuspark sent me a replacement timing light (brilliant service 👍) The timing turned out to be far more advanced than I'd thought working from my dizzy clamp marks. Still wouldn't idle without any choke, so gradually...

If you see my Tuning Woes thread you'll see I'm not an expert! As I can't do static timing with my electonic dizzy I have used the strobe to check that I'm in the right ballpark, and that advance is working. Normal "until it pinks" road testing will tell you more than a strobe, and my inte...

I mentioned in another thread that my Accuspark timing strobe had stopped working. When I checked my records it was just over a year since I ordered it, but I nevertheless politely asked by email if anything could be done, without expecting a positive result. They emailed me back immediately apologi...