Morris Minor Owners Club

Years ago, I had a fan blade break at the fitting holes. It very neatly sliced the bottom radiator outlet off. Wasn't far from a brake line either. Have a good look for cracks.

I fitted mine by removing the quarter-light rubber surround. It gives access to the mirror attachment with the capping in place.

I put a new choke cable, from ESM, into mine. It was longer than the original and fitted nicely. Check with them for length. The throttle cable was a brake cable from a bike shop cut to length. The grommet came from my container of useful bits.

It makes sense that you had to work hard to get the bearing in, the old one was tight coming out. It should not be loose in the hub. If so, the hub is worn and other problems can then arise.
Have a look at http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f= ... 33&start=0.

Regarding 3D printing, lots of potential there.
This may be of interest as to what can be done with 3D printing.
http://www.stuff.co.nz/business/small-b ... ket-engine

You will find that if you fit a T direct to the block you will not be able to fit the starter motor. Remote mounting the T, if you require an oil light and gauge, worked for me.

Once, driving slowly with other cars through flooding, an Audi came racing up behind. He obviously could not wait for the slow cars, especially that old thing, as he accelerated, pulled to the left where no cars were driving and made a huge splash as he found out why. I don't think the water flowing...

If the person behind you notices things like brake lights or know what they mean.

Pinion nut = 140 ft/lb
Bearing cap nuts = 65 ft/lb
(From workshop manual.)

I have rebuilt my heater and still had the same thing happening. The rebuild with new foam did help though. In the end I attached a plate over the lower opening, with smaller outlet holes. This forced more air to go to the screen when set to screen. The new outlet also directed the air to the side f...

Different conditions now to what the car was born into. In heavy, slow or stationary traffic I would regularly get high motor temps. That was with the std 2 blade and also a 4 blade fan. The road was unavoidable so the only answer, to keep the car from overheating , was an electric fan. Just adaptin...

Both of mine do this and have done for a while, with no problems. Different makes of gauges. Both have around a 2 second cycle. One of the gauges is an early undamped Smiths type which really shows it as it reacts to everything immediately. I put it down to being a bit of a curiosity. I guessed it w...

I guess the teflon is to allow for "up down" movement of the bearing due to the arc of the operating rod.

Sometimes it is necessary when re-using old, or maybe previously damaged parts. Sometimes we have to swallow our pride and follow the budget.

If you are going to use some sealant, then consider a non-hardening type. Makes future dismantling easier.

The 35 thou gaskets were supplied from a big UK supplier. You may well have the same supplied to you.
As a rough guide to thickness, what is needed is about twice the thickness of printer paper, what was supplied to me was more "cornflake packet cardboard" thickness.

This may be of use.[frame] http://mmoc.org.uk/mbimage.php?src=1410832198_4219 [/frame] I have 4 rear hubs and on 4 all of them the bearing stood proud of the face by 0.011 - 0.012". With a gasket of 0.010" thickness, the correct clearance, as shown in the workshop manual, was achieved. I h...

If you can find one that has a seller willing to post outside the UK.

Fit a new switch and go back to standard. You've now got 2 sets of contacts that can fail instead of 1 as you should have originally. If you can tell me where to find a guaranteed to work switch, maybe. With the relay it is a lot less likely that one of the sets of contacts could fail. The relay in...

Yes!