Morris Minor Owners Club

You're right, certainly the traffic nowadays is never-ending, not to mention roadworks everywhere you look! I still occasionally drive my 1970 Morris Minor Traveller, but even with a 1275cc conversion, it's only barely capable of keeping up with most of the modern-day stuff constantly hurtling about...

There is certainly a difference in the cylinder bore size: 7/8" bore (1948-1962) and 3/4" bore (1962-1971).

Not sure about the actual body being changed though...

Interesting. I did see that a while ago, in Technical Tips or similar, but opted to go the hydraulic route for my MG Midget clutch (which is also quite light - it was very heavy and 'in or out' with the standard linkage, and also wore through the bushes very rapidly).

Odd-looking exhaust manifold...

Would you happen to have a photo/diagram of your linkage?

With a locked gearbox (I've suffered it twice!), you can remove the sump plug (having drained the oil, of course), and use a flat-bladed screwdriver to reach in and release the stuck selector forks. You may find it's just a missing detent ball bearing/slug/spring in the side of the gearbox that's ca...

I currently have the LP917 van wheels with 165/70 tyres on my Traveller, mostly for aesthetic reasons, additionally with chrome rimembellishers to accentuate the deep dish look. https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50316723761_2f28fdbc01_z.jpg P1020873 by mtjhunt , on Flickr I would say the steering ...

For removal of the engine, no, there is no need to undo anything else at the gearbox; once the engine has been pulled away from the input shaft, it will lift away quite easily.

I often mute when the ads come on, in order to concentrate on a crossword I tend to do of an evening.

To improve the clutch operation, you could try squirting a few drops of engine oil down all the swivelling parts of the clutch/brake pedal shaft, and also grease the relay mechanism, and adjust if necessary. It could be that your clutch release bearing is worn; remove one of the rubber bungs in the ...

They look like standard Minor 1000 wheels to me.

Perhaps a bonding agent such as Tigerseal - it's very strong stuff, so just use a small dab at the fixing points.

Our mower, only a couple of years old and used last year, was very difficult to start last week, having been sitting over winter.

How odd that someone would have fitted a 948cc engine in place of the 1098cc! Did it still have the rib-case gearbox, as a 1962-on Minor should?

Interesting and neat setup, John. What does the gauge indicate?

This thread may be of interest:
viewtopic.php?f=27&t=72233

Another thing to bear in mind with the convertibles is they are nowhere near as rigid as the saloon, so you'll encounter scuttle shake, and possibly even doors springing open on rough roads; a good test of one is to jack it up and see how much the door gaps widen - you may well be shocked! :o Ensure...

I think he means that as you push the clutch in, it slightly nudges the engine/gearbox forwards on its mounts (particularly if you've fitted softer ones), thus reducing the effort exerted on the clutch release bearing, hence the clutch doesn't disengage as much as would normally be expected...

East Sussex Minors do a version: https://www.morrisminorspares.com/electrical-c54/indicators-flasher-switches-c60/flash-facility-indicator-switch-assembly-rhd-not-original-p829879 Don't think it operates the horn, however, although they do sell earlier ones that do: https://www.morrisminorspares.com...

Maybe you need to use a shorter rear hanger, so that it raises the arch section above the axle - as long as you have a few mm of clearance at the crossmember, it's usually sufficent in my experience.