Morris Minor Owners Club

I'm not at all... every replacement part seems to introduce a new problem/unreliability. It's taking me a long time to get used to the idea that fitting a new part isn't a sensible thing to do...

It's certainly worth having a spare in the boot to save you the trouble of trying to fix troublesome pump issues and trying to replace points by the road side.

I think that's the route I'll go down. Staying duplex saves me the cost of the gears, but simplex & tensioner seems the best all round solution. It's done less than a thousand miles on this chain (since engine 'rebuild' :roll: ), so I suspect you are correct in that the teeth must have been slig...

Only if the tensioner is done up too tight will the tensioner fail whether fitted to a simplex or duplex chain system. The tensioners and duplex chains fitted to my Minor over the years have lasted well, well, well past 100 miles! I didn't know you could fit a tensioner with a duplex chain, all the...

Now I've got a modern (Sad day...) and i don't have to rely on the moggie to get to work, I've decided to start pulling the engine apart to try find the source of the rattle, oil loss and overheating problem. I've come across a few things. There seems to be quite a bit of some kind of white crystall...

Always make sure that the stopping and handling is up to scratch and capable of accepting more loading on the suspension/steering and brakes before doing any modifications especially those designed to make the engine more powerful which may result in the vehicle being able to exceed its design para...

Thanks for the advice everyone. I think there was some pinking, sounded like a ballbearing in a tin can, and kind of uneven, but that was only high load. I've retarded it a little, see if it goes away. But the main rattle I was worried about seems to go away when I push the engine and at idle, only ...

Did this job recently, took a lot of whacking (wish I had a block hammer). Use a chunk of wood in between so you don't damage the wishbone.

I wasn't aware there were any seals on the crank shaft? Isn't it a helix arrangement that draws the oil back? Are rubber or cork gaskets best for the sump? I wouldn't mind having a poke at the timing chain anyway, see if that's a bit loose and causing the rattle. Changing the gasket would be a good ...

8-32 UNC fits, Hurah!

However, I think I've discovered the reason the first bolt snapped: the thread is somehow messed up. I think the plate welded to the tank that has the threads isn't lining up with the hole properly.

This ESM tank has been nothing but trouble...

coming from the rear and timing chain cover.

Okay, running at temperature, filler cap off, hand over hole: I can feel some negative pressure (suction), no fumes or smoke when revving. One thing: I took a hose clip off the tubes connecting the breathers to carb a while back, so could have been a slight air leak there. Have replaced it with a ca...

Ah, duh. I'll give it a go tonight.

Take off the oil filter and put my hand over the hole, then run the engine?? Could you be more specific kennatt I'm not sure what you mean.

Thanks

Temp gauge has it running reasonable temperature most of the time, never went over 95 and spent almost all its time about 80, so I don't think that's causing the oil loss.

Both breathers connected together and to carb. It only spent seconds at 20 psi and normally sat at 50-60, but yeah :/

I don't think oil is being burned (no smoke, white or black), but it leaves a neat breadcrumb trail of drips behind it.

I've sent an email asking full details, I got it second hand from the guy who got it reconditioned (never run) so I'm not confident on the warranty... we'll see. Not sure about top and bottom, I would hope they replaced the bearings. I will ask. *New pistons, *no rebore (apparently it was very good,...

Still having problems with the reconditioned 1275. Only had a thousand miles on it at most. It's now leaking oil worryingly fast. If it gets up to temperature after a drive I can see it drip from the bottom of the car. I noticed that it could be coming from the dip-stick, which suggests the sump is ...

So close! Perfect diameter, looked right - even screwed in nicely a few mm... but alas, nope.

Upon comparison, there are a few too many threads per inch. 8-32 UNC seems to be the only candidate left - shame they are so much harder to get hold of than 3BA.

Edit: Found some on ebay for £3...

£3. Ordered, fingers crossed!