Morris Minor Owners Club

I hope this car is saved somehow. Its far too good to be scrapped.

As long as you haven't loosened the pinch bolt on the clamp around the dizzy base, and haven't turned the engine at all since it came out, it will go back in without altering the timing.

I agree with the above comments from 'liammonty' about being methodical - in truth there are a number of things that could cause these running issues and systematic testing is the logical approach to determine whether it is a fuel or ignition problem - or even mechanical. I also second Dizzy Doctor ...

Yes, the manual says 12 thou for all valves. But there is a school of thought that says 12 thou on inlet valves and 15 on exhaust valves, to allow for unleaded fuel burning hotter. Others say 15 thou on all valves works well. So you have choices!

Fold/glue the flap out of sight to the rear of the panel.

Top marks to 'liammonty' then
And, er, don't you mean "Hooray, the problem is solved!"??

Or look here: https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category ... nded-vinyl

Very possibly low dashpot oil - a quick check will take only seconds

Sorry Bruce, must have missed your last post somehow....yes, the auto-electrician should be able to sort out your issues - do let us know the outcome.

You must have created a short circuit somehow. 'E' on the control box is an earthing point, the other end must have touched a live wire, or connection. If you have now removed the wire then - if the other end was connected to the wiper switch - the wiper should now not work...does it, or no? You say...

I think you've almost answered your own question. Get some vinyl of the correct colour, something to pad it with, cut everything to size and glue it all together with some contact adhesive. Depending on the state of yours, you might even be able to just glue the new vinyl over what is already there....

Well done - result!

Yes, you do need three hands sometimes when working on these cars! :-? But, if you are getting readings of up to 20v from the dynamo, and it will run as a motor both in and out of the car, and the wiring and connections are good then, from a distance, I guess the control box has gone kaput. I would ...

OK - to test the dynamo you need to remove the F and D wires from it and bridge the two terminals together. Then connect your voltmeter red wire to either of the two bridged terminals and the black wire to earth (as you have a -ive earth dynamo system). Start the engine and carefully increase its sp...

Can you give us a bit more detail?
How and where did you check the dynamo output?
Where is the voltage regulator sparking with the ignition off?

"My, oh my, disconnect while the ignition switch is off if you are that worried!"
Sarcastic, sneering comments are not welcome on this forum. Most people on here are trying to help others - not prove how 'superior' they are.

Oh dear, yes. I'll never forget the alternator fitting advice given to me many years ago by an old-time Cornish mechanic:
"Don't furget to disconnect th' baattery 'fore you fit th'alternator or you'll f***k 'n up! Knaw what I mean do 'ee?"
Words to live by

oliver90owner wrote: ↑Mon Aug 03, 2020 11:35 am It might take 5 seconds to remove the feed wire from the coil? Simple solutions to simple problems.

True - but its still not good practice to be disconnecting and connecting various wires on a live circuit.

Before going to the trouble of fitting a new loom, it would be good to try and identify the short - might be a quick, easy fix. The heater and the trafficators may have been red herrings, hard to say. If the fuse blows with only ignition 'on' and all switches off, one thing you could do is connect a...

As above - or take the car for a spin and when about to slow down or corner, disengage gears into neutral, switch the engine off and see if the sound appears or not (no need to worry about steering locks on these old cars 8) ). If it is still present then 'probably' something to do with the front wh...