Morris Minor Owners Club

The piccies of the restoration work on the inner wings looks awesome. Quick question on dealing with surface rust. My intention is to clean panels, apply two coats of Neutrarust 661, then a couple of coats of primer, then stone chip( underside of floor inside wheel arches etc) then couple of coats ...

Nice car :tu1: Not sure if these pics will be of any use taken during my travellers resto Near side inner wing replaced, you can see where the bump stop will sit https://i.imgur.com/larTG5j.jpg I haven't got a clear picture of that side completed but here's the off side with bump stop and rebound st...

Beach

Smells like spam to me

If it is a 1275 with the correct head then the two screws that hold the heater outlet connection in place will be at an angle to the head where the 1098 fixings are in a straight line across.

1275 head heater outlet

It could also be old brake fluid in the system. The fluid absorbs moist over time and when it gets very hot(as with hard and prolonged braking) the moisture turns to vapour and you get brake fade. Give the system a good right through bleeding and see if it makes a difference.

Merry Christmas from me and Ted the Traveller
Here he is gathering winter fu-oowelllll at the local farm

That's very nice.

Once you finalise the spec of your engine maybe you could sent the dizzy to be re-curved by the likes of AC Dodd or the Distributer Doctor.

You can fit a water heated manifold (and they can be picked up pretty cheap) without connecting the water up but it's a simple job to re-rout the heater pipes to fit. I'm a Mini man too and run a '91 Cooper. I grew a bit tired of the induction roar (getting old :wink: ) and re-fitted the original se...

Sticking with the HS2 will not allow the engine to run to it's potential, in my opinion you need an 1 1/2" carb at least (HS4 or HIF 38) and a similar sized bore exhaust system. The point of fitting a 1275 is to increase the available engine power and to restrict it so seems a bit of a shame. I...

I have a Mini HS4 and abutment plate on my traveller. The throttle and choke cables are to the front of the engine, not sure if this is the same as a Marina

When I did mine I put a piece of butyl sealant at the end of the runners so it squished out under and around when they were fitted sealing it tight, I used the same sealant behind the waist rail trim on the join of the runners . The car was left out the other night in torrential rain all night and n...

They look great

I think you need a coat of something else to seal the etch before a top coat, epoxy primer would be a good choice. Personally I'd use exoxy primer then a coat of chassis black enamel as it's not as hard as Smoothrite so less likely to chip. Then finish off with a decent spray on wax, I use Bilt Hamb...

Electrolytic rust removal does seen to work well but I always use citric acid. It's very safe (used in bath bombs so can go down the drain) and if left for long enough, a couple of days maybe, will remove even deep seated rust. It's dead cheap too.

Try this

https://www.morrisminorowners.co.uk/vie ... php?t=9561

I had a similar problem before the re-build and added a fillet to the bottom edge using a window seal I had in. It pushed between the runners and the glass (no picture of the front bit bit sorry). I had used the softer, comes on a roll, runners so not sure if the normal type will be flexible enough ...

Did you put a bead of sealant between the interior wooden trim and the glass runners before screwing them on?

If the dizzy has a black module attached to the side then it's probably off a 90's Mini. I still have the original one on my 91 Cooper and I've rarely had the cap off as when I do everything is clean and how it should be. The modules are available from Mini specialists if needed. If it's the Accuspa...