Morris Minor Owners Club

so i could have a 1098 flywheel and an 803/948 clutch

hi all , just looking for a bit of info , my 1955 s2 has a 1098 engine and thick back plate fitted to the 803 gearbox , it all works nicely no clutch judder etc but i have no idea as to the flywheel / clutch combination i am wondering do all the 803/948/1098 flywheel and clutch parts fit and are all...

i have just replaced them all on my 4 door car and i just moved all the strikers out about 1/4'' and they shut and line up well

try a nut and bolt / fixings supplier or good motor factor either should have a selection

yes no problem just done mine , i removed the engine rear stabilizer and removed the n/s engine mount tower from the chassi so there is enough movement to get the o/s mount in , to be fair i did mine with the front of so i would say removing the rad might be a good idea ,

hi i will fit a rebuild kit to be safe

no difference i suspect it's a worn jet

the float chamber fuel level sit's just above half , i think it might be a weeping needle valve as there is signs of fuel weep around the float chamber top cover when running so i am going to disconnect the fuel pump when it's idling a see what happens

hi all , if any member needs a minor collecting or delivering i might be able to help , i have a transit flat back recovery truck which i use mainly for buying and selling purposes , i am in north norfolk but i can cover a reasonable area , i am often out and about so i might be able to combine jobs...

good thinking fuel level or needle not seating , i will disconect the fuel pump and manually fill the float bowl and see what it runs like

hi my s2 has a 1098 engine and matching carb fitted , it starts and revs up perfectly but is running rich at idle and the jet is screwed up as far as it will go ,it has the correct needle and jet all set up to the book , the needle looks perfect , am i right in guessing its a worn jet , i am ok on w...

thanks all , i think i will just put a blob of sealer on the top lip + screws to stop them rattling and leave them as they were , my car is 90% original in the floor and inner sills so i guess as it's survived 59 years of wet it should be ok

is there a sealing rubber or similar along the top lip of the inner sill where the sill cover goes over it and screws on

i used a double ended female brake pipe joiner and linked the brake pipes at the servo together ,then bleed the system as normal , and remove / blank off the vacuum pipe from the inlet manifold

hi my friends mgb did the same thing and it was the servo sticking , the servo was about 2 years old , i did a bypass to prove it

i would recommend renewing the brake shoes as the ones in the picture are very unevenly worn , the top shoe looks less than 1/2 the thickness of the bottom and its worn more at the adjuster end , i would have thought trying to adjust out uneven wear is not helping the pedal travel nor will it do the...

my lathe is older than my car ! it's a 1940's era myford ml4 and it does all i need no problem

hi yes it's not going to be tight it was just so loose even at full adjustment it was not going to work , a few more turns of thread has done the job perfectly

update undid everything again including both engine mounting towers and gave the engine a very scientific yank forwards , tightened it all up and it's nearly right ,less than 1/8'' out, i can get an 1/8'' by threading the cable end a bit more so problem solved

none of the mounts are listed as handed but i will double check the old ones but i think if the engine mounts were on wrong the gearbox mounts would be under tension and all the mounting holes lined up fine