Service Intervals
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Service Intervals
Hello all,
Old manuals suggest a service every "3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes sooner", etc...
I suspect that such frequent servicing is not necessary if I total 1,000-2,000 miles annually. Can anybody suggest a more reasonable schedule for the more leisurely driver?
Apologies, if this topic as been covered previously.
Quee2646
Old manuals suggest a service every "3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes sooner", etc...
I suspect that such frequent servicing is not necessary if I total 1,000-2,000 miles annually. Can anybody suggest a more reasonable schedule for the more leisurely driver?
Apologies, if this topic as been covered previously.
Quee2646
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Re: Service Intervals
My annual mileage is between 1000 and 1200. Ignition, carburettor, valve clearances etc get attended to once a year. Safety-critical things such as suspension and steering, where the greasing/oiling schedule is followed twice yearly. Brakes inspected/adjusted twice yearly. FLUID LEVEL CHECKED MONTHLY. Braking system defects can develop even when the car is not being used. Engine oil checked weekly. Oil and filter get changed annually, although twice a year is probably better. Gearbox and diff oil get checked twice a year. Coolant/antifreeze checked weekly. Antifreeze refreshed every autumn.
1956 4-door called Max
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Re: Service Intervals
The only thing to consider altering would be the engine oil change. The other lubricants are not in as harsh of conditions. Sulfuric acid can be created in the sump and will etch the the bearings. Perhaps some of the additives are included to combat that. Then there is how long do you drive it when you do because of moisture. If they are just short runs, you might what to consider twice a year. If long runs that drive out any condensation, maybe once a year. It's all about the life of the additives and how often you need to add some oil. Looking at it another way, it's unlikely you will ever experience any noticeable engine reliability degradation in your lifetime if you stick with the 3000 mile service. Do what you are comfortable with. It's not an exact science and your results may vary.
The coolant is another fluid where the additives break down and can turn acidic. It can be tested to determine when it should be changed. Once a year testing would be a good idea until you notice a pattern.
The coolant is another fluid where the additives break down and can turn acidic. It can be tested to determine when it should be changed. Once a year testing would be a good idea until you notice a pattern.
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Re: Service Intervals
dont forget the brake fluid that needs to be changed every 2 years
[sig]5641[/sig]
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Re: Service Intervals
If you are only doing 1000 - 2000 miles a year you need to additionally exercise everything to make sure it does not seize or deteriorate.
i.e.
Slacken the brakes right off and regularly press the brake pedal. Plenty of wheel cylinder piston travel reduces the chance of the piston sticking and seizing also reduces the master cylinder and its linkage seizing.
Turn the wheels on a regular basis. This will get oil onto the CWP and rotate the gearbox internals
Turn the engine over on a regular basis. With both the clutch disengaged and engaged that will stop the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel. This will also rotate the gearbox internals.
When turning the engine over turn it over by an odd number of compressions, this ensures that the same valve springs are not compressed every time and the pistons are not left in the same position.
Remove spark plugs and give a few squirts of engine oil into the bores. This keeps the bores lubricated and the rings free.
If you are not using the car on a regular basis - keep the car on axle stands - helps the tyres and in carrying out the above tasks.
My own Minor is kept up on axle stands and the above items are exercised about once a week.
Phil
i.e.
Slacken the brakes right off and regularly press the brake pedal. Plenty of wheel cylinder piston travel reduces the chance of the piston sticking and seizing also reduces the master cylinder and its linkage seizing.
Turn the wheels on a regular basis. This will get oil onto the CWP and rotate the gearbox internals
Turn the engine over on a regular basis. With both the clutch disengaged and engaged that will stop the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel. This will also rotate the gearbox internals.
When turning the engine over turn it over by an odd number of compressions, this ensures that the same valve springs are not compressed every time and the pistons are not left in the same position.
Remove spark plugs and give a few squirts of engine oil into the bores. This keeps the bores lubricated and the rings free.
If you are not using the car on a regular basis - keep the car on axle stands - helps the tyres and in carrying out the above tasks.
My own Minor is kept up on axle stands and the above items are exercised about once a week.
Phil
Re: Service Intervals
Out of sheer necessity , I live in "pot hole " land ( Surrey ) , I tighten all the nuts and bolts on the car as part of my pre MOT preparation.
If the speed humps don't get you the potholes do . There's always a gap in the slalom course between pot holes that is too small to get through. Ancient suspension systems struggle to cope. It's an ideal time to keep you eyes peeled for other issues that you don't spot on the car ,in the normal course of events.
Bob
If the speed humps don't get you the potholes do . There's always a gap in the slalom course between pot holes that is too small to get through. Ancient suspension systems struggle to cope. It's an ideal time to keep you eyes peeled for other issues that you don't spot on the car ,in the normal course of events.
Bob
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Re: Service Intervals
I tend to run the cars every couple of weeks and operate the brakes, clutch etc etc (Move them on the wheels). I tend to grease everything at 1000 intervals or at MOT time, whichever comes first and I have generally changed the oil then too. Now that MOTs are no longer compulsory, I'll be getting one every 1000 miles (It's rare for any of my cars to do 1000 miles in a year), so the service will coincide with that.
There's an item on service intervals in Minor Matters this month. As time went on, the recommended intervals increased. At one time the advice was grease the suspension at 1000 miles but I think it was extended to 6000 (I don't know exactly, as I have always done it at 1000).
There's an item on service intervals in Minor Matters this month. As time went on, the recommended intervals increased. At one time the advice was grease the suspension at 1000 miles but I think it was extended to 6000 (I don't know exactly, as I have always done it at 1000).
Oddly enough, I heard a news item, that said that Surrey is one of the most prosperous counties in the country and yet it sounds as if the roads are like those on Blaenau Be...I mean Gwent. Given the amount we pay in council tax, you'd expect the streets to be paved with gold. There's one road, where on my bike, I have subconsciously memorised the potholes and it's only when I drive the car, that I can't avoid them. Don't start me on speed bumps. If the speed limit is 30mph, why slow people down to 5mph? If you wish to enforce a 30mph limit, erect a Gatso, which (If set up properly) will only penalise those who break the speed limit; speed bumps are as logical as locking everyone up because there have been a few burglaries.mogbob wrote:Out of sheer necessity , I live in "pot hole " land ( Surrey ) , I tighten all the nuts and bolts on the car as part of my pre MOT preparation.
If the speed humps don't get you the potholes do . There's always a gap in the slalom course between pot holes that is too small to get through. Ancient suspension systems struggle to cope. It's an ideal time to keep you eyes peeled for other issues that you don't spot on the car ,in the normal course of events.
Bob
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Re: Service Intervals
As far as suspension greasing is concerned, my own philosophy is 'More is Better' especially where trunnions are concerned. I'd sooner grease them more often than necessary and have them last longer.
When I ran an Austin Cambridge as my daily driver (approx 10,000 miles a year), the suspension/steering greasing was done every three months. Never had to replace anything on the steering or suspension except the front shocks and a wheel bearing, over 7 years of daily use.
When I ran an Austin Cambridge as my daily driver (approx 10,000 miles a year), the suspension/steering greasing was done every three months. Never had to replace anything on the steering or suspension except the front shocks and a wheel bearing, over 7 years of daily use.
1956 4-door called Max
Re: Service Intervals
Thank you all for your advice - really helpful.
Incidentally, regarding greasing the front suspension: one of my rubber seals is either split or coming adrift (it's so gunky there it's hard to tell at a glance); is it fine to go on greasing or should I be concerned about replacing this? (I understand it's not the easiest swap job.)
Incidentally, regarding greasing the front suspension: one of my rubber seals is either split or coming adrift (it's so gunky there it's hard to tell at a glance); is it fine to go on greasing or should I be concerned about replacing this? (I understand it's not the easiest swap job.)
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Re: Service Intervals
Confirm as to whether the swivel seal has indeed split or damaged.
If it is split or damaged and it is the bottom swivel seal it needs to be replaced soonest.
If not replaced water and crud can get into the threads and corrode and wear them away.
Fit new replacement swivel seals sourced from Declan Burns.
If the seal is the top one - replacement is not so urgent but still needs to be replaced soonest.
If it is split or damaged and it is the bottom swivel seal it needs to be replaced soonest.
If not replaced water and crud can get into the threads and corrode and wear them away.
Fit new replacement swivel seals sourced from Declan Burns.
If the seal is the top one - replacement is not so urgent but still needs to be replaced soonest.
Re: Service Intervals
I think the time or miles requirement needs to be adjusted for low miles cars. Time is a good marker for the fluids which may deteriorate or dry out and I will certainly do the greasing twice a year. You really don’t want dry trunnions. I change the engine oil annually. Mechanical wear items on the other hand deteriorate only by use so the tappets can be left for 12,000 miles even if that takes a decade.
Re: Service Intervals
Thanks, everyone.
I don't think I'm confident replacing the rubber seal myself at the moment, so I'll get my friendly mechanic to do it (& watch) at its MoT in a few months' time...
I don't think I'm confident replacing the rubber seal myself at the moment, so I'll get my friendly mechanic to do it (& watch) at its MoT in a few months' time...