Hello, and advise please.

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FosterS
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by FosterS »

Love the colour, you should be pleased with the result.
1963 4 Door 1098cc

Learn from your parents mistakes use Condoms. :oops:
Grabsplatter
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by Grabsplatter »

Enough that I'm beginning to think it's greasing time ;-)

To be honest, she looks a lot scabbier from close up, but the cosmetics will be dealt with later.
philthehill
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by philthehill »

As regards grease:- Use general purpose grease for all grease nipples - available from all good motor factors.
Only the front suspension/steering has the ability to be greased. No grease nipples on the rear suspension.
The only other grease nipples are on the prop-shaft universal joints. Go steady with the grease here as you can blow the seals.
Jack the car under the front lower suspension arms - as far out as you can get the jack. Make sure that you apply the handbrake and chock the rear wheels. If you need to get under the car use axle stands under the chassis leg(s) and/or rear axle tube.
When greasing apply grease until fresh grease starts to be seen.
The workshop manual will give details of where to find/location the grease nipples.

taupe
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by taupe »

philthehill wrote: Sat Nov 06, 2021 2:32 pm As regards grease:- Use general purpose grease for all grease nipples - available from all good motor factors.
Only the front suspension/steering has the ability to be greased. No grease nipples on the rear suspension.
The only other grease nipples are on the prop-shaft universal joints.
My Traveller has them on the brake cables too? :lol:

The water pump uses the same grease....unless you prefer to use pump grease if yours is the correct period type with a grease screw....and not the later sealed type...


T
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geoberni
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by geoberni »

Well when the damn Image upload starts behaving again, I'll post you a copy of my SII Driver's Handbook Lubrication Chart.... :roll:
Basil the 1955 series II

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philthehill
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by philthehill »

Taupe
You are right in that the original handbrake cables were fitted with grease nipples.

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geoberni
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by geoberni »

Hip, Hip, Hooray, the Image Upload is working again!

Here's the Lube Chart.....
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Basil the 1955 series II

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Grumpy21
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by Grumpy21 »

That’s astonishing. So back in the day an owner was expected to jack up the car and grease the handbrake cable and prop shaft every 1000 miles - so every month or two!

Imagine that being part of the maintenance schedule today! Most owners these days call out the AA to change a tyre!
philthehill
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by philthehill »

Back in the day when I worked in a BMC garage the 1000 mile service was our bread and butter. Drivers back then did not do so many miles as they do now so a 1000 mile service was not such a regular thing and not many service items were sealed for life as they are now.
Also engines were expected to require a de-coke every 12000 miles. How times have changed. 8)

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geoberni
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by geoberni »

You have to remember that these cars originate from a time when Motorways were only a dream and to travel London to Edinburgh on the A1 could take 3 days for a family car, with overnight B&B or Hotel at perhaps Grantham and Newcastle.


These days London Victoria Bus station to Edinburgh by National Express is 10hrs 40 Mins in daytime traffic and only 9 hrs 10 Min overnight.
By car, probably around 8 hours or less to do the 420 miles.

People didn't travel like they do now, and a family visit that these days is just a Day Trip, would be a major logistical exercise.
Last edited by geoberni on Sun Nov 07, 2021 12:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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mogbob
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by mogbob »

A few little hints on the greasing. Have either clean rags or paper towel handy and clean the outside of the grease nipple of all road muck. A drop of Meths or brake cleaner spray will help shift really dirty items.
You don't won't to pump dirt into the unit you're trying to fill with clean grease.
At the other end of the exercise , you will see the "old grease " emerging from the joint. You can stop pumping
once "clean " grease emerges. Have some disposable gloves on and scrape off the old stuff for suitable disposal.
Again a clean up of the area is recommend so the road dirt doesn't accumulate. If the workshop manual states
only a precise number of pumps are required ... do not " overfill ".
If the grip of the grease gun nozzle on the nipple is a little loose , placing a thin rag over the nipple before attaching the gun might help.
Fits OK but can't get the grease in ? The nipple may be blocked / gunged up with dead / solidified grease.
Remove the nipple and poke it through with a bit of wire / panel pin or other suitable pointy object. Clean surrounding area and nipple and replace. Try greasing again.
If luck is not on your side and the car hasn't moved for decades , you may have to dismantle the relevant
part and clear out the solid old grease. In extreme cases where corrosion has set in replacement of the part.

Future protection ? You can buy a number of small rubber protective caps to cover either grease nipples
or brake bleed nipples. Sellers will usually specify sizes. They are not expensive and I fit them automatically
on restorations I've been involved in. Seconds to fit , you've cleaned up , so why not keep them clean ready for next time.
Tyres ... have you checked the date of manufacture. There are different opinions on what constitutes " out of
date ". Do a Google search. Replace if they are a bit long in the tooth. It's a safety item and there very few
completely safe areas on the road to have a tyre blowout.
Bob
FosterS
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by FosterS »

mogbob wrote: Sun Nov 07, 2021 12:00 pm
Tyres ... have you checked the date of manufacture. There are different opinions on what constitutes " out of
date ". Do a Google search. Replace if they are a bit long in the tooth. It's a safety item and there very few
completely safe areas on the road to have a tyre blowout.
Bob
The spare on mine is over 32 years old according to the markings, don't worry though it will not be going on it's only filling the space in the boot :lol:
1963 4 Door 1098cc

Learn from your parents mistakes use Condoms. :oops:
jagnut66
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by jagnut66 »

I've invested in a Wanner grease gun
You might find the G coupler an improvement on the original nozzle attached, it will ensure more grease actually goes where you intended it to, therefore also less waste and mess.......
Link below.
Best wishes,
Mike.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164850688327 ... BMzNDF0Z9f
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
philthehill
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by philthehill »

Relative to above
Just received my Minor Matters Vol 42 No: 6 Nov/Dec 2021.
Article 'Grease is the Word'
Having the wheels off the ground does not remove the loading on the trunnion/swivel threads as you will still have the torsion bar loading the trunnion/swivel threads in a downwards direction because the torsion bar is/has to be pre-loaded before you can assemble the suspension.
With the wheel fitted and resting on the ground the loading on the swivel threads is upwards whilst at the same time the pre-loaded torsion bar is trying to pull the trunnion threads downwards.
The only way you can reduce the loading on the trunnion/swivel threads is to load the torsion bar by jacking up under the underside of the lower thick/thin arms as far out as you can.
Jacking up under the suspension arm can reduce or cancel out any loading on the trunnion/swivel threads which will allow the grease to flow unimpeded through the threads.

Pete Bags
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by Pete Bags »

@philthehill,

Very interesting - would you advise greasing the trunnions without jacking up the car at all - would this help the grease penetrate the threads?

My trunnions appear to be the originals, and after 60 years, I have no idea as to their condition - it does pass the annual MOT, but do modern/young MOT testers know what to look for in trunnion wear?
philthehill
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Re: Hello, and advise please.

Post by philthehill »

The best way of greasing the trunnions is putting the jack under the thick/thin arms and taking the weight off the wheel.
I would suggest that the only real way of determining trunnion/swivel wear is to dismantle the swivel/trunnions and see what the wear is like.
The male threads are 75% Whitworth profile so should have a flat top. If the male threads do not have a flat top the threads are worn out and the swivels should be replaced.
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