Distributor and Vacuum advance/retard component.

[liammonty]

just noticed that you mentioned the total cost being around £250 - that seems quite high. new coil and electronic dizzy from accuspark is around £89, with leads being around a fiver?? if you're being quoted £250, shop around!

It likely boils down to the quality - there's just no way that a 'top quality' distributor can be made from scratch for the £60 or so that Accuspark charge. I know many people use them without problem, but I seriously doubt that the quality will be as good as one of the pricier ones, like 123 for example. I've got an Accuspark in my Landcrab, but opted for the one without integrated electronic ignition as I figured it's less likely to go wrong. To be honest though, i haven't got a clue if the advance curve is right or not.

I paid nigh on £200 to have a 25D4 rebuilt and recurved to suit my modified engine by the Distributor Doctor - it's a lot of money, but the result is super and I have peace of mind that it will be reliable. They also graphed the advance curve so that I know what I've got is as it should be. Totally agree that not everyone will want to pay that money, but just need to be mindful that sometimes the cheaper offerings are cheaper because the quality isn't quite so good.

[288NNM]

Well I took the pipe off the carburetor float chamber and turned the ignition on and after 36 seconds my jug had three quarters of a pint of petrol in it. I stopped at that stage as I didnt want the jug to overflow. So I recon that a pint would be filled in about 45/50 seconds. Hope that's about right as it was mentioned that a pint should be achieved in 60 seconds ish. Its not an exact science is it? Also topped the carburetor dash pot up to about a half inch from the top of the neck as it seemed low, in fact no oil was visible as I looked in although there was oil on the brass bush on its dip stick/piston component. Stan still had the annoying lack of power when under load (up inclines) and after I had been out for a drive in him he started to misfire and idle incorrectly when he'd stood on the drive for several minutes. The misfire came when I was putting him back in the garage.
I have an auto electrician coming this morning hopefully. He comes on a recommendation see if he can wave his auto wand on Stan and I'll open my magic wallet and watch a disappearing trick. Hey if it cures the issue I'm happy. Having a car you can not drive any further than a couple of miles is useless.

[288NNM]

Update on my situation with "Stan" (1964 2 door 1098cc) Had my mobile auto electrician turn up today. He fingers crossed has worked his magic!!!!!! What this very nice man has done;
1 Put in a second hand rotor arm ( one without the rivet they are the cheap troublesome imports apparently)
2 Taken off the Vacuum pipe from the carburetor to the Vacuum unit(was blocked so we've bodged it until I can get suitable replacement it is connected)
3 Set up the timing previously it was incorrectly set up (had to take off rocker cover set #4 cylinder to TDC and then set timing accordingly)
4 Adjusted advance and retard. Was set far to retarded (still issue with that component but he managed to set it. (Whole vacuum bowl is loose - possible wear?)
5 Change oil in carburetor dash pot to thinner engine oil ( as he didn't know what previously been in it)
6 Adjusted the mixture on the carburetor (leaned it off then raised the needle in the valve until it stalled so it is as lean as possible without "pinking")
7 Adjusted the tick-over so it will turn over comfortably not lumpy.
8 Done a compression test on all cylinders they were all around 140psi? (is that the correct unit its measured in?)[more for my benefit than his he said it was fine when he hooked it up to his crystal ball in back of van]
So now I need to source a trustworthy reconditioned distributor a vacuum pipe a couple of decent rotor arms, condensers, and points sets as spares. Air filter rubber breather pipe to air filter. He did not touch the condenser as he says old ones are the best if still working. He said generally all components went downhill in the 1980's when companies started getting components made abroad an packing them as though they were made in the UK.
Any hints and tips and extra info would be most welcome as we all know " knowledge is power"
PS He charged me the cost of fuelling Stan up twice at the car equivalent of the pub! Money very well spent I hope

[Trickydicky]

Fingers crossed you can now enjoy the car The best source of ignition parts is here, http://www.distributordoctor.com he can supply you with all the spares you need.
I do think though that it may be more financially viable to replace the complete distributor as the cost of individual parts will soon add up. You could still buy a points and condensor distributor if you wanted instead of electronic but I would go electronic personally.

[288NNM]

Richard,
Thanks for the advice I've just emailed the "doctor" for a price on rotor arms, condensers, and points and if he does the vacuum pipe? Auto electrician recommended the Lumenition Electronic Ignition but its a pricey piece of kit. He said he's never had one go wrong. Think for now i'll stick with what ive got and enjoy will there is sunshine to do so. Am I righ with compression measured in PSI?
Cheers

[amgrave]

PSI measurement is correct and the readings are average. Excellent is 185 PSI and above, low is 125.

[288NNM]

Hi folks,

Could anyone advise me on where I might find the serial number on my distributor. The chap from the Distributor Doctor has asked for it to establish if it is an original fit to my car. I have had a quick look and am flummoxed as to where the number is located. If anyone has the knowledge it would be much appreciated if they could enlighten me.

Cheers,

Paul

[Declan_Burns]

It is shown here on an old 25D distributor.
Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]