Distributor Replacement Advice

[Donald Ross]

I have been hearing a strange noise for some time when my 1098cc 1970 Morris Minor is up to temperature. Today I have discovered the distributor Spindle bearings have failed and I can feel play in the rotor arm shaft.

So I need to replace the distributor.

I have never done this and some advice would be very helpful.
Please note I would like to replace it with the same points system rather than a electronic one unless the electronic one is easier to fit. All advice welcome.
I have a few questions that I could do with answering first:

1. I have the 1098cc engine 1970 so would it be the 25D or 45D distributor I should be getting. (I think the original is the DM2 but not sure).
2. Is it possible to replace the distributor and keep the engine timing.
3. If i do need to reset timing i do have a strobe light but i cant figure out how i would be able to see the mark on the crank pully with it.

Any advice welcome and much appreciated.
Thanks
Donald Ross

[simmitc]

1. Usually the 25D, but what's on there at the moment? It should be stamped on the side of the case, or post a photo of it in situ and we can advise further.
2. No.
3. You can use a strobe, but the initial setting can be done by "static" timing to get the engine running and then adjust it by "feel" to get what the engine needs now, with modern fuel. We can provide further advice on this.

[Donald Ross]

Ok
I will go and take a photo of it to help matters.

[Donald Ross]

I have just taken some photos will upload in next 5 mins. It is a 25D version i think.

[Donald Ross]

Here are some photos:

[Donald Ross]

Also here is the link to the video of it i just posted on youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kyU4Niw ... e=youtu.be

[Blaketon]

Strobes are not expensive (I won mine many years ago, along with various other tuning bits, that came in a case, so it cost me only a stamp). I have used mine on the Traveller but my memory is a tad rusty. I know the marks are in an awkward place!! I am fitting a reconditioned distributor to my father's MG Midget and it looks like I will have to shine it in through a hole under the front bumper. A good white mark, to highlight the notch on the pulley, is useful. I have seen kits for transferring the marks to the top.

I have found http://www.distributordoctor.com/ to be good.

[Donald Ross]

Hello
Thanks for your advice

I have tested my strobe today and it is working well. I am going to see if I can swap the timing marks so I can see them from the top.

I think I am going to try to put some 3 in 1 oil in the distributor shaft the see if it helps as the car seems to be running very well and timing seems perfect it is just a small noise when doing about 30mph but if I can avoid replacing it for now I will.

Here is the link to a video I have made of my engine running. It sounds like its running fine to me now. What do you think.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=So-gTJA67T4

If you skip to 5:59 you will hear the engine idle when it is up to temperature.

Please note this is filmed in a garage so sounds louder than it actually is.

Thanks again
Donald

[Chipper]

It sounds like it's running pretty well. You can swap the dizzy out for another if you take careful note of the relative positions of the rotor arm and dizzy mounting bolts, and ensure the replacement is fitted in the same position - one point to be aware of is the drive dog on the underside of the dizzy is offset, so ensure you fit it into the block correctly.

Of course, you'll probably need to fine-tune the points gap and possibly advance/retard Vernier wheel to get the timing spot-on.

It would appear from your photo of the (25D4) dizzy that it may be a cheap (typically made in China) modern replica of the original Lucas, as the originals had a part number stamped on the raised lug on the body (e.g., 47212) and generally had a smoother look to the casting. Some modern replicas are known for wearing out fairly quickly.

[Chappers]

Hi Donald.
Might not be very much help, but here’s how I changed my dizzie to an electronic ignition one about 18months or so ago.
Nothing really wrong with the old one other than the wiring and connectors looking a bit tired.
Had a condenser fail not long after I bought my car “Maisie”. Changed this and replaced the points as part of a general service.
I then brought at acuspark kit on eBay consisting of a new electronic distributor, cap, coil, lead and plugs for around £80.
I have dealt with the traditional points ignition for many years on various cars and motorbikes, but I thought I would give the electronic version a go.
Main thing is, take photos. Take many in various angles so you have a point of reference.
Take out the plugs and turn the engine until number 1 piston is on TDC.
I marked the position of my old dizzie so that if I had to put it back it would go pretty much in the same place.
Out came the old one and in went the new electronic one, and I rotated this so the position on the cam matched the old one.
Maybe I was lucky, but she started first time.
I’m an engineer with a ear and feel for mechanical things, and I rotated the distributor body and adjusted the timing by ear.
Took the car for a test run and what a difference. She starts instantly and revs nicer. I had no pinking and the engine performs well.
The timing marks are difficult to see on a moggy as they are at the bottom of the engine, so you may need to mark with white paint and use a mirror to view etc.
I keep my old dizzie in the boot with points, cap and leads attached just in case the new fangled one ever fails at any time, and because I marked it, it can go straight back in the same place to get me going again.
For anyone who dismisses the practicality of setting the ignition timing by ear, I have done this on numerous vehicles including a series 3 Landrover and an Austin Princess 2.2l 6 cylinder wedge shape - this car was pinking slightly whilst on holiday touring the uk. A quick tweak and all was well, and off we went. Did a couple of passes in the Lake District including Hardknot pass, all around Scotland and back home to the south coast and the car never missed a beat in over a 2,000 mile touring holiday. Be interested to hear how many people on the forum have set their timing like this, quite a few I expect?
The Minor engine should run if the timing is out a fair bit, so it should be just a final adjustment to finalise the timing after that.
Best wishes
Mark