Blowing Fuses Constantly

[myoldjalopy]

Yes, my comments refer to the 4-door.....because that's what the OP has.

[jagnut66]

But let's say it's the trafficators, how would I go about sorting the wiring on them? I fear it's a headliner removal job because if so, I may just have to bite the bullet and get light indicators to replace them for now, sadly

I've never had to do this, so I don't know, but it should be possible to tie the end of a ball of string to the end of the wire at the trafficator end and pull the wire and string through from the other end. Leave the string showing at both ends and then you can pull back the original wire (if its OK) or a new wire, thus undisturbing the headlining. Check the trafficators aren't shorting out where the feed connects to activate them.

An interesting point there, in that in the new loom I bought, from a well known main supplier, stated as being specific to my car year, there were no wires provided for the individual trafficators themselves......
There was wiring for / to the trafficator switch but not beyond.
Not that it would pose too much of an issue, as far as I can see there is just one 'feed' wire per side and the trafficator unit itself earths through the body when screwed in place.
However, I did find that my 'feed' wires were tight (fixed in with the headlining??), so as there was no issue with either and they worked fine, they are the one piece of the original loom still in operation. They also now power up flashicator LEDs, so even less of a power draw.
If they ever give me any problems I will simply bite the bullet and find a way of pulling a couple of new wires through to them.
I don't want to remove my headlining either, as it is really good / a really good fit (original?).
Best wishes,
Mike.

[ManyMinors]

I'm confused by the OP stating that the fuse blows immediately he turns on the ignition, yet suspecting the trafficators. Unless items such as the trafficators are switched ON at the time, they cannot be causing the fuse to blow can they because there won't be any current through that circuit?
Surely the fuse can only flow because a circuit IN USE at the time is shorting? That narrows it down to anything he has switched on - or the fuel gauge? I cannot think of much else that would be drawing a current which is protected by that fuse?

[Andymoor94]

I'm confused by the OP stating that the fuse blows immediately he turns on the ignition, yet suspecting the trafficators. Unless items such as the trafficators are switched ON at the time, they cannot be causing the fuse to blow can they because there won't be any current through that circuit?
Surely the fuse can only flow because a circuit IN USE at the time is shorting? That narrows it down to anything he has switched on - or the fuel gauge? I cannot think of much else that would be drawing a current which is protected by that fuse?

I am putting the trafficators out there as a potential cause because of just how damn sensitive my left one is to opening. A speed bump can cause it to activate!

So you're absolutely right in that the circuit must be in use, of course, and if there's a short somewhere in the trafficator's switch assembly, which I've yet to look at, that could be causing the issue.

But I agree that it could well be the fuel gauge/sender unit. When I start, everything else is turned off (Minus the heater, which is constantly on, I believe?) and my foot is off the brake, so the switch won't be activated.

[ManyMinors]

OK. So surely the thing to do if your heater is constantly on, is to disconnect the live wire to it and then see if the fuse no longer blows when you turn on the ignition? If it still does, then try the same with the fuel gauge etc etc until you eliminate the cause?

[geoberni]

I'm confused by the OP stating that the fuse blows immediately he turns on the ignition, yet suspecting the trafficators. Unless items such as the trafficators are switched ON at the time, they cannot be causing the fuse to blow can they because there won't be any current through that circuit?
Surely the fuse can only flow because a circuit IN USE at the time is shorting? That narrows it down to anything he has switched on - or the fuel gauge? I cannot think of much else that would be drawing a current which is protected by that fuse?

Very true, that's why I said he's need to operate switches and so forth. As to 'immediately he turns on', I didn't take it quite that literally, perhaps that is what's happening, in which case even easier to find.
I don't see why the heater should be on continually, there must surely be a rheostat for it?

My reasoning in checking the individual leads was to find which one had the short, then the others could be reconnected. That would basically allow him to see what hadn't been restored by leaving the identified cable disconnected. A lot quicker and easier than checking all possible suspects.

[Andymoor94]

OK. So surely the thing to do if your heater is constantly on, is to disconnect the live wire to it and then see if the fuse no longer blows when you turn on the ignition? If it still does, then try the same with the fuel gauge etc etc until you eliminate the cause?

"Surely the thing to do" after I've made it clear I'm novice. I appreciate the help, but would appreciate it more without the belittling

I'm confused by the OP stating that the fuse blows immediately he turns on the ignition, yet suspecting the trafficators. Unless items such as the trafficators are switched ON at the time, they cannot be causing the fuse to blow can they because there won't be any current through that circuit?
Surely the fuse can only flow because a circuit IN USE at the time is shorting? That narrows it down to anything he has switched on - or the fuel gauge? I cannot think of much else that would be drawing a current which is protected by that fuse?

Very true, that's why I said he's need to operate switches and so forth. As to 'immediately he turns on', I didn't take it quite that literally, perhaps that is what's happening, in which case even easier to find.
I don't see why the heater should be on continually, there must surely be a rheostat for it?

My reasoning in checking the individual leads was to find which one had the short, then the others could be reconnected. That would basically allow him to see what hadn't been restored by leaving the identified cable disconnected. A lot quicker and easier than checking all possible suspects.

"there must surely be a rheostat for it?" - A whatnow? I'm still very new to all of this.

Regardless, is less than an hour, I'll have all the leads checked with a multimeter (Until my fuses arrive)

[geoberni]

Hi,
If it helps the picture below is of my replacement loom, as it was, freshly installed into my 1954 Minor (Ignore the extra green wire linked in with the purple ones).
Following the wiring diagram in the workshop manual and matching it to my replacement loom, there was no wire going to the bottom connection, there is however a metal link connecting it (blue arrow), so I could have spread the whites wires out over the two.
Is your metal link missing?

Best wishes,
Mike.

Mike, you think you have problems.
Here's the layout in Basil, I've not got around to working out why somebody has installed this additional terminal block with all the links. I've not bothered with it so far as all is working, but one day I'll get around to seeing why there is an additional green cable. There should be 3 green yet I have 4... (The brown on the far right is something I added)

20200617_162607.jpg (1.03 MiB) Viewed 1457 times

I've not seen this additional connecting block on any other car.....

[jagnut66]

Mike, you think you have problems.

Hi Berni,
I may be wrong but it looks like someone has drawn the same conclusion as many of us on here, in that there is simply not enough space in the original fusebox for all the wires that have to feed off it.
That additional distribution block also looks to be bakelite, so this may well have been done a long time ago, very possibly long before the rewire of your car and it was simply retained.
Which just leaves the question of the additional green wire. Do you have indicators, as well as trafficators? If so, is the flasher can fed by a green?
Whatever the answer, as a rule of thumb, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Best wishes,
Mike.

[geoberni]

Mike
I too think that block has been there many decades and predates the new loom which I think was in the last 10 years.

As for your thought....

Which just leaves the question of the additional green wire. Do you have indicators, as well as trafficators? If so, is the flasher can fed by a green?
.

To paraphrase Professor Henry Higgins in My Fair Lady, 'By George I think he's got it'.
I often forget to look at the latter wiring diagram (N29) for the '61-'63 cars, which is the loom that's fitted. Those looms do have 4 greens, to include the indicators.

[ManyMinors]

OK. So surely the thing to do if your heater is constantly on, is to disconnect the live wire to it and then see if the fuse no longer blows when you turn on the ignition? If it still does, then try the same with the fuel gauge etc etc until you eliminate the cause?

"Surely the thing to do" after I've made it clear I'm novice. I appreciate the help, but would appreciate it more without the belittling

Andy, my comment was not intended to belittle you. You have asked for help and you've received several useful responses from other owners. My wording is simply my thought process typed out. I have no idea what knowledge you have except that you mentioned being used to simple circuits on a moped and owning a multimeter. There is really nothing more simple than the electrical circuits on a Minor but you are hampered by faded wiring which makes it difficult to follow the individual cables on your car. That being the case and the fact that it keeps blowing fuses - along with your intention to use the car daily lead me to suggest that a new wiring loom would be a good investment
Several of us on here have done so previously on our own cars and are willing to talk you through the process. If that's what you want.

[geoberni]

I don't see why the heater should be on continually, there must surely be a rheostat for it?

My reasoning in checking the individual leads was to find which one had the short, then the others could be reconnected. That would basically allow him to see what hadn't been restored by leaving the identified cable disconnected. A lot quicker and easier than checking all possible suspects.

"there must surely be a rheostat for it?" - A whatnow? I'm still very new to all of this.

Regardless, is less than an hour, I'll have all the leads checked with a multimeter (Until my fuses arrive)

Hi Andy
All this quoting lark can get a bit confusing, so I've just picked out the bit I'm replying to

A 'rheostat' is a variable resistor, used for example as a speed control, in the case of your heater, depending on the one you have, it's the control knob that is on the front of it, or on the dash. My heater is an after-market brand with a separate control on the dash. The Smiths heater often fitted has the knob on the front of it.
So you've hopefully got a rotary knob, that goes from OFF to Full Speed and the ability to turn the fan down.

[Andymoor94]

So I've finally found the culprit! Funny enough, my heater. Disconnected the cables from fuse and control box, so heather is no longer part of the circuit, and boom, all is well and working.

Given the amount of acid my battery has leaked recently, I can understand if that's what has caused my heater to blow fuses. Guess I'll have to get it out and inspect it!

Cheers for the help, couldn't have done it without the advice now onto fixing my right stop light, which isn't working!

[Shropshiremoggie]

Well done , bet you have a great feeling of satisfaction !

[Andymoor94]

Well done , bet you have a great feeling of satisfaction !

Like no other!

[jagnut66]

The heater only requires two wires, a live and an earth, so what you could do is get yourself some rolls of red and black wire, 8 amp will probably suffice (Halfords etc. are cheap enough), then run a new feed and earth to your heater.
I would also add an inline fuse at this point, perhaps someone can confirm what rating would be best.
If you do this and the fuse still blows, then it's your rheostat that's causing the problem. They are available new from the usual suspects.
As an aside, I replaced my rheostat to find the new one didn't work either, so now I have a simple on / off switch, which does just fine (and is much cheaper to replace!).
Best wishes,
Mike.

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[geoberni]

I'm glad you found it.
Where was the heater blower connected to?
In theory, although it doesn't feature on the official wiring diagrams until well into the 60s, it too should have been a cable added to A4 but I know mine isn't. It's got a feed up behind the dash somewhere.

Where has your battery been leaking to?
Battery acid can wreck a lot of things, it needs cleaning up and neutralising with Baking Soda paste, assuming it's a standard Lead/Acid type.

Do you know why it leaked?
The 3 usual reasons are old age and the plates have warped over time, causing it to 'boil', or over charging due to a regulator fault, or finally and unlikely in the UK, temperature extremes.

There are videos on youtube about battery spillage clean up.
I would make that your priority.

[Andymoor94]

I'm glad you found it.
Where was the heater blower connected to?
In theory, although it doesn't feature on the official wiring diagrams until well into the 60s, it too should have been a cable added to A4 but I know mine isn't. It's got a feed up behind the dash somewhere.

Where has your battery been leaking to?
Battery acid can wreck a lot of things, it needs cleaning up and neutralising with Baking Soda paste, assuming it's a standard Lead/Acid type.

Do you know why it leaked?
The 3 usual reasons are old age and the plates have warped over time, causing it to 'boil', or over charging due to a regulator fault, or finally and unlikely in the UK, temperature extremes.

There are videos on youtube about battery spillage clean up.
I would make that your priority.

The heater was fitted the the bottom terminal on the fuse box, then the far right terminal on the regulator.

No clue why it's leaked, I've not driven the car that much and have had it for roughly 4 months. Lockdown stopped much of the driving, of course! But it's been leaking on the left, onto the strut that holds the engine from the top and behind the firewall, much of it onto the parcel shelf and past the foot beam button.

I'll have a go at cleaning it. It's white and fluffy, not what I was expecting at all!

[Andymoor94]

The heater only requires two wires, a live and an earth, so what you could do is get yourself some rolls of red and black wire, 8 amp will probably suffice (Halfords etc. are cheap enough), then run a new feed and earth to your heater.
I would also add an inline fuse at this point, perhaps someone can confirm what rating would be best.
If you do this and the fuse still blows, then it's your rheostat that's causing the problem. They are available new from the usual suspects.
As an aside, I replaced my rheostat to find the new one didn't work either, so now I have a simple on / off switch, which does just fine (and is much cheaper to replace!).
Best wishes,
Mike.
Threaded bracing bar (2).JPG

Very handsome dash, Mike!

Ideally, I'd like most of my components to be individually fused, but I can imagine that will be something I approach later with a new loom too

[jagnut66]

I can imagine that will be something I approach later with a new loom too

Go for it, it's not as frightening as you may at first think!
Best wishes,
Mike.