No spark

[geoberni]

OK, so now know there is a supply.That's progress.

I’ve changed back to points and condenser with one wire coming from the points to the - side of the coil and a white wire going to the + side

What wire is going from Points to -ve on coil?

For a -ve earth car with points there should be:

White from Ignition going to +ve/CB on the coil
White/Black from -ve/SW on coil to the points.
The other side of the points is earthed internally by a short cable.

Can you post up a photo of your distributor with the cap and the rotor arm removed, perhaps we can see if you've not got something right?
Perhaps you've missed out the insulating washer?

[simmitc]

If I understand correctly, you now have points installed, but no spark from any of the plugs.
The disconnected white wire with black tracer is the original wire to connect the dizzy to the coil. You can use that, or the new wire that you have added.

Switch off the ignition.
Rotate the engine slowly until you can see that the points are open.
Using the resistance setting on the meter, put one probe on the long flexible arm of the points and the other on a good earth point. Confirm that there is NO connection between the two places.
Keep the first probe in place and put the second probe on the LT terminal on the side of the dizzy. Confirm that there IS a connection between the two places.
Switch on the ignition.
Using a meter set to DC volts, check that you have 12v (a) on the terminal on the side of the dizzy and (b) on the long flexible points arm that is connected to the LT, not the one that is connected to the bas plate.
Rotate the engine slowly until you can see that the points are closed.
Open and close the points using a screwdriver. You should see a small spark at the points.
Switch off the ignition.

If all above is OK, then we can move to the HT side. Remove the central wire from the dizzy cap, leave the other end connected to the coil. Hold the loose end (use insulated pliers or a screwdriver with a wooden or plastic handle; or wedge it) about 1/2 inch from a good earth point, usually the cylinder head. Spin the engine on the starter. Do you see a good spark between the lead and the earth point?

Report back for further advice.

[rreems]

Hi Thanks for all the excellent advice, just to give you an update
I've now fitted new Points and condenser set the correct gap, made sure wires are correct on coil, tested Coil this has 12v going to it, still won't start no spark at plugs!
I've looked at all the links for both Accuspark set up and points set up didn't realise there's an insulating washer for the points! should I make sure both condenser wire and LT wire connect with the spring on the points? Have tried this still not starting!! I set the points i left the dizzy off turned ignition on looked for a spark at the points by rotating the rotor still no spark!
I'm rubbish with a voltmeter don't know how to use one
I'll try sending a photo of the distributor with the dizzy off when i can look at it again
Thanks for this forum and all the advice I;ve learbed a lot
R

[myoldjalopy]

Re the insulating washers, they are installed as in the pic from the link I previously sent - i.e. insulating washer, points spring, condensor lead, low tension lead, insulating washer, nut. The purpose of the washers is to stop the current shorting out through the baseplate.
So still no spark and you have tried two coils? Have a careful look at the dizzy low tension lead - they sometimes wear through their sleeving and thus short out.
No spark at the plugs - but have you tried for a spark at the king lead again? Try that.

[simmitc]

I did write earlier "When connecting the condenser to the LT and points, take care to have the plastic insulators positioned correctly.". The tests that I described above will confirm that all is connected correctly, and the links that myoldjalopy and I provided will give some excellent assistance.

As to the meter, if its a fairly standard multimeter then it will have a rotating switch that allows you to select different functions. The simplest is DC volts, that you must have already found if you are reporting 12v readings DC is what we use on a car. Typically the switch will allow for different ranges such as 0-5, 0-20, 0-250 etc. For greatest accuracy, use the lowest range that has the maximum higher than the volts that you are measuring. For example, with an expected 12v use the 0-20 range.
You might have a set of scales for AC volts, this is for mains electrical stuff, do not go there!
Resistance is measured in ohms, and will be another scale that you can select. When you first switch to it with nothing connected, the display will read "1" or infinity. This means that there is no connection or continuity between the probes. Now touch the probes together. The eading will change to zero meaning that there is a connection, You can now apply the same test on the car. One probe on the battery earth terminal and the other on the dizzy cap should give 1. Move the second probe to the radiator, display changes to zero. The dizzy cap is plastic and so there is no connection, the radiator is metal and bolted to the body, so there is a connection. In advanced work, we would be interested in more precise readings, but for now, 0 or 1 is all you need to worry about. Hope that helps.

Report back on reasults on tests for further advice.

[rreems]

I decided to put the original points tat came with the car and it started but really bad misfire not running good!
R

[simmitc]

We probably need a bit more information than that For starters, check that plug leads are on in the correct order 1-3-4-2 and check compression on all four cylinders. By not following suggested checks you now don;t know whether the new points were any good or whether you can a small error in how they were installed. It's always better to be methodical rather than jumping from one thing to another.

[myoldjalopy]

At least she fired up, so you now have a spark! A misfire could be caused by any number of things but right now (given the car was running beforehand) I would do as 'simmitc' suggests - and also check all plug leads and plugs are in good condition. Examine the dizzy cap for cracks or 'tracking' and that the brasses in the cap are not too worn and that the spring-loaded carbon brush is free to move easily. Also check the rotor is clean and not too worn.
It may also be that the timing needs a slight adjustment having substituted the Accuspark for the points set-up, but check all the above first.
You would appear to have a spark from the coil, but maybe not sparking at all plugs - or sparking at the wrong time or in the wrong order. Check all plugs are sparking. If you are getting a good, blue spark at all plugs then it could well be leads in wrong order (so check they are 1342 as already suggested) or timing is a bit out. Its got to be something simple, its just identifying it.

[pgp001]

Myoldjalopy

I suspect your are right about the timing comment.

When I fitted an Accuspark, I had to turn the distributor a considerable amount anti clockwise from where it had been with the points setup.
So if he has not moved it the timing is probably way out for the points now, and it will be very retarded.

Phil

[geoberni]

Myoldjalopy

I suspect your are right about the timing comment.

When I fitted an Accuspark, I had to turn the distributor a considerable amount anti clockwise from where it had been with the points setup.
So if he has not moved it the timing is probably way out for the points now, and it will be very retarded.

Phil

I'll second that. My timing is significantly different with the Acuspark in it from the details given in the manual.