Point to Point
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
-
sloopjohnrb
- Minor Fan
- Posts: 201
- Joined: Tue Mar 12, 2002 12:00 am
- MMOC Member: No
Point to Point
Hi, I'm in the middle of a service and seem to have gone terribly wrong
with the points. I have followed my manual but it's not that clear.
I've fitted a new condenser to the gubbins, but where I'm confused is with the nylon bush, low tension lead and condenser things connect.
Also, one is supposed to adjust the gap of the points by screwdriver into "hole 3" in the Haynes manual-I find this confusing.
Please please can anyone give me a simple idiot proof guide to fixing new points?
By The way, the rotor arm supplied with the points definately does NOT fit, the inside black bit is too large so I have used the old rotor arm.
Can this have any bearing on the problem?
Finally, I also would like a sure fire wat to esnsure all distributor leads go to the right sparkplug.
Forgive me, I'm still learning and any info I receive will be well learnt and remembered.
JOHN
-
Cam
- Moderator
- Posts: 5108
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, UK
- MMOC Member: No
It sounds like you have the wrong parts!!
everything should go back where it came from.
Compare your new parts with the old ones to make sure.
If you loose your timing completely (dont know which lead goes to where and the dizzy has been removed and you don't know what to set it to), then:
take the rocker cover off and remove spark plug number 1 (nearest radiator). Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation (found by BRIEFLY pressing the starter solenoid button with the coil lead disconnected) until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) rise upwards near the top in conjunction with both the valves on number 1 cylinder closed (high) then when the piston is at the top of the bore, the engine is on top dead centre.
Look at the pully and pointer on the crank pulley and it should be pointing to the TDC mark (or very close).
Then move the engine until the pulley lines up with the first small mark (five degrees) (I know the book says 3, but 5 is close enough!!).
Then engine is now set to 5 degrees BTDC.
connect the electrics and put a voltmeter across the coil (should read almost 0v), and SLOWLY move the distributor until the points open and the meter reads about 12v, now tighten the dizzy and that is statically timed to 5 degrees.
put the rotor arm on, and whichever lead on the cap it points to is number 1, then follow the cap anti-clockwise and the leads are numbered 1-3-4-2.
Then start the engine and dynamically time the engine if you feel the need.
everything should go back where it came from.
Compare your new parts with the old ones to make sure.
If you loose your timing completely (dont know which lead goes to where and the dizzy has been removed and you don't know what to set it to), then:
take the rocker cover off and remove spark plug number 1 (nearest radiator). Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation (found by BRIEFLY pressing the starter solenoid button with the coil lead disconnected) until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) rise upwards near the top in conjunction with both the valves on number 1 cylinder closed (high) then when the piston is at the top of the bore, the engine is on top dead centre.
Look at the pully and pointer on the crank pulley and it should be pointing to the TDC mark (or very close).
Then move the engine until the pulley lines up with the first small mark (five degrees) (I know the book says 3, but 5 is close enough!!).
Then engine is now set to 5 degrees BTDC.
connect the electrics and put a voltmeter across the coil (should read almost 0v), and SLOWLY move the distributor until the points open and the meter reads about 12v, now tighten the dizzy and that is statically timed to 5 degrees.
put the rotor arm on, and whichever lead on the cap it points to is number 1, then follow the cap anti-clockwise and the leads are numbered 1-3-4-2.
Then start the engine and dynamically time the engine if you feel the need.
Websites: 
-
Cam
- Moderator
- Posts: 5108
- Joined: Mon May 20, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Stoke-on-Trent, Staffordshire, UK
- MMOC Member: No
It sounds like you have the wrong parts!!
everything should go back where it came from.
Compare your new parts with the old ones to make sure.
If you loose your timing completely (dont know which lead goes to where and the dizzy has been removed and you don't know what to set it to), then:
take the rocker cover off and remove spark plug number 1 (nearest radiator). Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation (found by BRIEFLY pressing the starter solenoid button with the coil lead disconnected) until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) rise upwards near the top in conjunction with both the valves on number 1 cylinder closed (high) then when the piston is at the top of the bore, the engine is on top dead centre.
Look at the pully and pointer on the crank pulley and it should be pointing to the TDC mark (or very close).
Then move the engine until the pulley lines up with the first small mark (five degrees) (I know the book says 3, but 5 is close enough!!).
Then engine is now set to 5 degrees BTDC.
connect the electrics and put a voltmeter across the coil (should read almost 0v), and SLOWLY move the distributor until the points open and the meter reads about 12v, now tighten the dizzy and that is statically timed to 5 degrees.
put the rotor arm on, and whichever lead on the cap it points to is number 1, then follow the cap anti-clockwise and the leads are numbered 1-3-4-2.
Then start the engine and dynamically time the engine if you feel the need.
everything should go back where it came from.
Compare your new parts with the old ones to make sure.
If you loose your timing completely (dont know which lead goes to where and the dizzy has been removed and you don't know what to set it to), then:
take the rocker cover off and remove spark plug number 1 (nearest radiator). Turn the engine in the normal direction of rotation (found by BRIEFLY pressing the starter solenoid button with the coil lead disconnected) until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) rise upwards near the top in conjunction with both the valves on number 1 cylinder closed (high) then when the piston is at the top of the bore, the engine is on top dead centre.
Look at the pully and pointer on the crank pulley and it should be pointing to the TDC mark (or very close).
Then move the engine until the pulley lines up with the first small mark (five degrees) (I know the book says 3, but 5 is close enough!!).
Then engine is now set to 5 degrees BTDC.
connect the electrics and put a voltmeter across the coil (should read almost 0v), and SLOWLY move the distributor until the points open and the meter reads about 12v, now tighten the dizzy and that is statically timed to 5 degrees.
put the rotor arm on, and whichever lead on the cap it points to is number 1, then follow the cap anti-clockwise and the leads are numbered 1-3-4-2.
Then start the engine and dynamically time the engine if you feel the need.
-
Chris Morley
- Moderator
- Posts: 898
- Joined: Mon Feb 11, 2002 12:00 am
- Location: Berkshire
- MMOC Member: No
Cam, I think you've assumed that John has pulled the distributor apart. 
The way I read it is that he's simply removed the distributor cap to set the points and change the condensor + rotor arm, the idea being to do a basic service.
John.
O.K, leads to sparkplugs. Stand on the driver's side and look at the engine. The four sparkplugs are numbered 1-4 (from the right). The firing order is 1, 3, 4 ,2. The rotor arm revolves in an anti- clockwise direction, so lead 1 goes to sparkplug 1, lead 2 to sp3, lead 3 to sp4 and lead 4 to sp2.
You've clearly been given the wrong rotor arm. The old one will be okay as long as it isn't badly worn or chipped. Polish the contact area with fine abrasive paper. It's always best (and cheapest) to get your parts from a service kit supplied by a Minor specialist to avoid these problems.
The nylon bush, low tension lead and condenser lead have to be put back in the right order or the car won't start. You're right, the Haynes manual is very unclear. From memory I think the nylon bush goes on the terminal post first, then the spring end of the contact set, then the two leads and finally the nut. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong
!
"Also, one is supposed to adjust the gap of the points by screwdriver into "hole 3" in the Haynes manual-I find this confusing. "
Hole 3 ** is to the r/h of the cam, opposite the securing screw.
This is the description given in my 1970 'Autodata' book.
"If adjustment is required, slacken the contact plate securing screw and adjust the position of the plate to alter the gap. This is achieved by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole ** at the end of the contact plate. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to decrease the points gap, anti-clockwise to increase it. When the gap is correct (.36-.40 of a mm, using feeler guages) tighten the securing screw and recheck the gap"
I hope this helps...
The way I read it is that he's simply removed the distributor cap to set the points and change the condensor + rotor arm, the idea being to do a basic service.John.
O.K, leads to sparkplugs. Stand on the driver's side and look at the engine. The four sparkplugs are numbered 1-4 (from the right). The firing order is 1, 3, 4 ,2. The rotor arm revolves in an anti- clockwise direction, so lead 1 goes to sparkplug 1, lead 2 to sp3, lead 3 to sp4 and lead 4 to sp2.
You've clearly been given the wrong rotor arm. The old one will be okay as long as it isn't badly worn or chipped. Polish the contact area with fine abrasive paper. It's always best (and cheapest) to get your parts from a service kit supplied by a Minor specialist to avoid these problems.
The nylon bush, low tension lead and condenser lead have to be put back in the right order or the car won't start. You're right, the Haynes manual is very unclear. From memory I think the nylon bush goes on the terminal post first, then the spring end of the contact set, then the two leads and finally the nut. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong
!"Also, one is supposed to adjust the gap of the points by screwdriver into "hole 3" in the Haynes manual-I find this confusing. "
Hole 3 ** is to the r/h of the cam, opposite the securing screw.
This is the description given in my 1970 'Autodata' book.
"If adjustment is required, slacken the contact plate securing screw and adjust the position of the plate to alter the gap. This is achieved by inserting a screwdriver in the notched hole ** at the end of the contact plate. Turn the screwdriver clockwise to decrease the points gap, anti-clockwise to increase it. When the gap is correct (.36-.40 of a mm, using feeler guages) tighten the securing screw and recheck the gap"
I hope this helps...
-
olonas
Distributor
I'm looking at my spare, correctly assembled distributor at the moment.
There is first a nylon/plastic stepped washer over which the end of the spring fits insulating from contactor base and screwed securing post. Then the l.t. lead which in turn connects to coil and the condensor lead in any order. Then a further insulating stepped washer which isolates both the eyes from the securing nut and the contactor base. Does that make sense? I could e-mail pic if necessary.
There is first a nylon/plastic stepped washer over which the end of the spring fits insulating from contactor base and screwed securing post. Then the l.t. lead which in turn connects to coil and the condensor lead in any order. Then a further insulating stepped washer which isolates both the eyes from the securing nut and the contactor base. Does that make sense? I could e-mail pic if necessary.
