Waxing Tips

Got any hints or tips? Share them here.

Moderator: Moderators

MoggyTech
Minor Legend
Posts: 1466
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 12:06 pm
MMOC Member: No

Waxing Tips

Postby MoggyTech » Mon Oct 15, 2007 9:27 pm

These are my tips for renovating a cellulose paint finish that is looking a little tired. This includes UV fading caused by sunlight, dead paint, micro scratches and swirls.

Tools needed: Hose, bucket, clean sponges (2), Chamois or Water Wiper Blade Maguires Clay Bar Kit (Clay Bar, Detailer Fluid, Micro Fibre Cloth)
T-Cut Maguires Gold Class Wax Maguires Stage 3 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax Polishing Buff (Optional)

1: Wash car using a hose and good quality car wash shampoo. Do NOT use washing up liquid, it contains salt and will wreck Celly paint in no time. Start by washing the roof, and working down the car, rinse off regularly to prevent drying marks as you work. Use a different sponge to wash the wheels and wheel arch lips.

2: Dry car with chamois, or water wiper blade

3: Starting with the roof, T Cut the entire car, working a small section at a time. I know this is hard work, but you really need to get down to good solid paint to achieve a good finish. This is best done by hand, although final buffing can be done with an electric buffer provided it can be used at a slow speed. Too fast and you risk burning the paint with heat friction.

4: The car should now look a lot better, but we are just getting started.

5: Apply detailer fluid to a small section of the roof, and use the Clay Bar as directed in the instructions. The clay bar, pulls contaminants out of the paint, like tree sap, pollen, brake dust, leaving a glass like finish. Dry the area you have used the clay bar on, with a micro fibre cloth. Clay Bar the entire car a small section at a time, until you have done the entire car.

6: Ensure the car is completely dry, and apply Maguires Gold Class wax, using the supplied polish applicator pad. Allow polish to dry for about 15 minutes or longer. Using a clean micro fibre cloth (turn it frequently) polish off wax by hand only. (Gold Class wax is excellent quality, but it does require a fair amount of elbow grease.)

7: Using an electric polishing buff with a lambswool bonnet, buff the car to an even higher shine.

8: Leave the car for 24 hours

9: Apply Maguires Stage 3 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax with a wax applicator pad. Unlike the Gold Class Wax, this stuff buffs off very easily with minimal effort. Why apply a second coat of wax? The Carnuba Wax gives the finish 'depth.'

Finish by cleaning up all the chrome. Light pitting can be removed with a good metal polish, but don't use this stuff too often, as it takes some of the chrome off. Protect chrome with a good quality wax.

Finally, clean the glass inside and out, with Autoglym Car Glass Polish or Nil Glass.

Some people will have their own preferred brand of car polishes. I have tried most of them over a great many years, and have found Maguires to be the very best value for money and end results.

Buy new sunglasses 8) :D

chickenjohn
Minor Legend
Posts: 4063
Joined: Tue Dec 07, 2004 8:50 am
MMOC Member: No

Postby chickenjohn » Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:48 am

Good advice, although other brands of products work very well too. I use T-cut, Mer on the chrome, Zymol HD cleaner wax, as the first wax stage and Blitz carnauba wax to finish. I have had good results with the Bilt Hamber clay bar which does not need a special fluid- just use water with the bar.

Doing all this at this time of year and on a nice day mid- winter can also go a long way to protecting paintwork and chrome.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
- Come to this years Kent branches Hop rally! http://www.kenthop.co.uk
(check out the East Kent branch website http://www.ekmm.co.uk )
ImageImage

RussLCV
Minor Legend
Posts: 1041
Joined: Tue Mar 19, 2002 12:00 am
MMOC Member: No

Postby RussLCV » Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:45 pm

Try a clay bar instead of t cut with detailer it removes all teh oxidisation but NO PAINT and leave teh paint like glass. Then apply 100% pure Caranuba wax. Should no last 2 years!! Mine has
Russell Harvey
Minor LCV Register Historian
Freelance Motoring Journalist
http://www.Minorlcvreg.co.uk


polo2k
Minor Addict
Posts: 921
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2003 9:40 pm
MMOC Member: No

Postby polo2k » Tue Jun 24, 2008 12:51 am

For super high gloss try buffing the wax back off with cotton wool!!!
- Ash
  • [MONA] - 1963 4 door saloon
    [IGOR] - 1970 trav (In Surgery)
    [GOLFIE] - 2001 Golf GT TDi 200 (my daily "fix")
- The only way your guarenteed to fail, is never to try! -
Image Image Image
Click on the middle pic for progress!

irmscher
Minor Legend
Posts: 3623
Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:53 am
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby irmscher » Thu Dec 09, 2010 10:59 pm

who makes the clay bars ? and where can you purchase them from sounds good stuff

LouiseM
Moderator
Moderator
Posts: 4420
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby LouiseM » Fri Dec 10, 2010 6:29 am

As already mentioned, Meguiars & Bilt Hamber (amongst others) make clay bars. Most good motor factors will stock them or you can get them from Halfords, e-bay, or various internet stockists. Just do a Google search :)


Eric - 1971 Traveller

chrisryder
Minor Legend
Posts: 2217
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:44 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby chrisryder » Fri Dec 10, 2010 7:33 am

LouiseM wrote:good motor factors will stock them or you can get them from Halfords
trying to tell us something? :lol:

irmscher
Minor Legend
Posts: 3623
Joined: Wed Jul 14, 2010 10:53 am
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby irmscher » Sat Jul 13, 2013 10:58 am

The clay bars are brilliant thanks Louise went to Halfords

philthehill
Minor Maniac
Posts: 6651
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby philthehill » Sun Jul 14, 2013 3:54 pm

All this talk of washing and polishing is quite upsetting what is wrong with good old fashioned patina?????


MarkyB
Minor Maniac
Posts: 7845
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:18 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby MarkyB » Sun Jul 14, 2013 6:21 pm

Beats me, I've tried various things, some quite harsh and the patina seems to be as thick as the almond green paint.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"

alexandermclaren
Minor Addict
Posts: 658
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:10 pm
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby alexandermclaren » Tue Oct 29, 2013 1:29 am

Good advice


morrisbreton
Newbie
Posts: 8
Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2013 3:47 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby morrisbreton » Fri Nov 29, 2013 3:56 pm

Wonderful post and some great photos. Thanks

TFM150K
Minor Fan
Posts: 344
Joined: Sun May 03, 2009 7:25 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby TFM150K » Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:10 pm

I really don't quite understand this polishing game. All this talk about clay bars - I live in Lincolnshire where a vast amount of vegetables are grown - and that means that an awful lot of tractors are moving about from field to road and back again. I always wash my van once a year before I go for the MoT on the basis that if the MoT man can see through the windows and can see the lights and things, I have got half a chance of it passing. The MoT was a few weeks ago and, fortunately, when I set off it was dry and I got to the garage with a nice clean van. Having gone through it like a dose of salts before I took it (no point in taking it and paying good money if it isn't going to pass) I came out of the garage with a pass ticket - by this time it was raining and the traffic sprayed rain and clay mixture all over the van so that when I got home it was lathered in the stuff and I had to get the hosepipe out to find the yellow stuff again. So the idea of using a clay bar on my bodywork just seems daft to me.......
:wink:

MarkyB
Minor Maniac
Posts: 7845
Joined: Thu Jan 25, 2007 3:18 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby MarkyB » Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:37 pm

It come down to whether you prefer driving or polishing, simples :)

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"

dalebrignall
Minor Legend
Posts: 2527
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2007 4:06 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby dalebrignall » Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:23 pm

clay is very good for the skin as well ,the claybar removes impurities from the paint work
[sig]5641[/sig]

bmcecosse
Minor Maniac
Posts: 46561
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:24 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby bmcecosse » Sun Dec 08, 2013 2:17 pm

Polishing - just wears away the paint....life is too short for that game. Wax & Wash in the bucket does just fine..... I have been known to give a rub over with Traffic Film Remover if getting bored standing about at a Classic show, when I don't like to leave before 2:30pm.......
ImageImage
Image

delwin
Minor Friendly
Posts: 33
Joined: Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:23 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby delwin » Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:05 am

But according to my Mrs you'll still need a full wax to get rid of those stubborn hairs!! :D

toulky
Minor Friendly
Posts: 82
Joined: Sun May 26, 2002 1:00 am
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby toulky » Sat Jul 09, 2016 1:37 pm

delwin wrote:But according to my Mrs you'll still need a full wax to get rid of those stubborn hairs!! :D

:lol:

Marc S
Minor Friendly
Posts: 18
Joined: Fri Jul 22, 2016 1:21 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: Waxing Tips

Postby Marc S » Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:50 am

I would advise against the use of T-Cut; it is a very abrasive compound, and will remove a lot of paint.

If you just have some oxidisation, try a paint cleaner, such as Kleers; it will remove a lot less of your valuable paint. If you do need further correction, there are many good mild compounds - Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is fairly gentle and will give an excellent finish. I would suggest using a DA machine to get the best results, and you are much less likely to burn or rub through the paint.

There are some great products that are all in one...such as Auto Finesse "Tripple" - a paint cleaner, mild polish, and wax...all in one - you can use it with a machine or by hand, and it's a good one-step solution


As for the stages, you should first wash, then use a tar remover to remove all the sticky gunk... and then use the clay bar to remove bonded contaminants, without soiling the clay with any tar etc. Only then should you use a compound/paint cleaner/polish. This will give you the best base for a wax/sealant :)
_______________________________________________________________________

Image
Professional Vehicle Detailing & Valeting in East Sussex
http://www.paragonautofinishing.co.uk


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest