Waxing Tips

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MoggyTech
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Waxing Tips

Post by MoggyTech »

These are my tips for renovating a cellulose paint finish that is looking a little tired. This includes UV fading caused by sunlight, dead paint, micro scratches and swirls.

Tools needed: Hose, bucket, clean sponges (2), Chamois or Water Wiper Blade Maguires Clay Bar Kit (Clay Bar, Detailer Fluid, Micro Fibre Cloth)
T-Cut Maguires Gold Class Wax Maguires Stage 3 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax Polishing Buff (Optional)

1: Wash car using a hose and good quality car wash shampoo. Do NOT use washing up liquid, it contains salt and will wreck Celly paint in no time. Start by washing the roof, and working down the car, rinse off regularly to prevent drying marks as you work. Use a different sponge to wash the wheels and wheel arch lips.

2: Dry car with chamois, or water wiper blade

3: Starting with the roof, T Cut the entire car, working a small section at a time. I know this is hard work, but you really need to get down to good solid paint to achieve a good finish. This is best done by hand, although final buffing can be done with an electric buffer provided it can be used at a slow speed. Too fast and you risk burning the paint with heat friction.

4: The car should now look a lot better, but we are just getting started.

5: Apply detailer fluid to a small section of the roof, and use the Clay Bar as directed in the instructions. The clay bar, pulls contaminants out of the paint, like tree sap, pollen, brake dust, leaving a glass like finish. Dry the area you have used the clay bar on, with a micro fibre cloth. Clay Bar the entire car a small section at a time, until you have done the entire car.

6: Ensure the car is completely dry, and apply Maguires Gold Class wax, using the supplied polish applicator pad. Allow polish to dry for about 15 minutes or longer. Using a clean micro fibre cloth (turn it frequently) polish off wax by hand only. (Gold Class wax is excellent quality, but it does require a fair amount of elbow grease.)

7: Using an electric polishing buff with a lambswool bonnet, buff the car to an even higher shine.

8: Leave the car for 24 hours

9: Apply Maguires Stage 3 Deep Crystal Carnuba Wax with a wax applicator pad. Unlike the Gold Class Wax, this stuff buffs off very easily with minimal effort. Why apply a second coat of wax? The Carnuba Wax gives the finish 'depth.'

Finish by cleaning up all the chrome. Light pitting can be removed with a good metal polish, but don't use this stuff too often, as it takes some of the chrome off. Protect chrome with a good quality wax.

Finally, clean the glass inside and out, with Autoglym Car Glass Polish or Nil Glass.

Some people will have their own preferred brand of car polishes. I have tried most of them over a great many years, and have found Maguires to be the very best value for money and end results.

Buy new sunglasses 8) :D
chickenjohn
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Post by chickenjohn »

Good advice, although other brands of products work very well too. I use T-cut, Mer on the chrome, Zymol HD cleaner wax, as the first wax stage and Blitz carnauba wax to finish. I have had good results with the Bilt Hamber clay bar which does not need a special fluid- just use water with the bar.

Doing all this at this time of year and on a nice day mid- winter can also go a long way to protecting paintwork and chrome.
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RussLCV
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Post by RussLCV »

Try a clay bar instead of t cut with detailer it removes all teh oxidisation but NO PAINT and leave teh paint like glass. Then apply 100% pure Caranuba wax. Should no last 2 years!! Mine has
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polo2k
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Post by polo2k »

For super high gloss try buffing the wax back off with cotton wool!!!
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irmscher
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by irmscher »

who makes the clay bars ? and where can you purchase them from sounds good stuff
LouiseM
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by LouiseM »

As already mentioned, Meguiars & Bilt Hamber (amongst others) make clay bars. Most good motor factors will stock them or you can get them from Halfords, e-bay, or various internet stockists. Just do a Google search :)


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chrisryder
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by chrisryder »

LouiseM wrote:good motor factors will stock them or you can get them from Halfords
trying to tell us something? :lol:
irmscher
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by irmscher »

The clay bars are brilliant thanks Louise went to Halfords
philthehill
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by philthehill »

All this talk of washing and polishing is quite upsetting what is wrong with good old fashioned patina?????

MarkyB
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by MarkyB »

Beats me, I've tried various things, some quite harsh and the patina seems to be as thick as the almond green paint.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
alexandermclaren
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by alexandermclaren »

Good advice

morrisbreton
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by morrisbreton »

Wonderful post and some great photos. Thanks
TFM150K
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by TFM150K »

I really don't quite understand this polishing game. All this talk about clay bars - I live in Lincolnshire where a vast amount of vegetables are grown - and that means that an awful lot of tractors are moving about from field to road and back again. I always wash my van once a year before I go for the MoT on the basis that if the MoT man can see through the windows and can see the lights and things, I have got half a chance of it passing. The MoT was a few weeks ago and, fortunately, when I set off it was dry and I got to the garage with a nice clean van. Having gone through it like a dose of salts before I took it (no point in taking it and paying good money if it isn't going to pass) I came out of the garage with a pass ticket - by this time it was raining and the traffic sprayed rain and clay mixture all over the van so that when I got home it was lathered in the stuff and I had to get the hosepipe out to find the yellow stuff again. So the idea of using a clay bar on my bodywork just seems daft to me.......
:wink:
MarkyB
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by MarkyB »

It come down to whether you prefer driving or polishing, simples :)

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
dalebrignall
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by dalebrignall »

clay is very good for the skin as well ,the claybar removes impurities from the paint work
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bmcecosse
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by bmcecosse »

Polishing - just wears away the paint....life is too short for that game. Wax & Wash in the bucket does just fine..... I have been known to give a rub over with Traffic Film Remover if getting bored standing about at a Classic show, when I don't like to leave before 2:30pm.......
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delwin
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by delwin »

But according to my Mrs you'll still need a full wax to get rid of those stubborn hairs!! :D
toulky
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by toulky »

delwin wrote:But according to my Mrs you'll still need a full wax to get rid of those stubborn hairs!! :D

:lol:
Marc S
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Re: Waxing Tips

Post by Marc S »

I would advise against the use of T-Cut; it is a very abrasive compound, and will remove a lot of paint.

If you just have some oxidisation, try a paint cleaner, such as Kleers; it will remove a lot less of your valuable paint. If you do need further correction, there are many good mild compounds - Meguiar's Ultimate Compound is fairly gentle and will give an excellent finish. I would suggest using a DA machine to get the best results, and you are much less likely to burn or rub through the paint.

There are some great products that are all in one...such as Auto Finesse "Tripple" - a paint cleaner, mild polish, and wax...all in one - you can use it with a machine or by hand, and it's a good one-step solution


As for the stages, you should first wash, then use a tar remover to remove all the sticky gunk... and then use the clay bar to remove bonded contaminants, without soiling the clay with any tar etc. Only then should you use a compound/paint cleaner/polish. This will give you the best base for a wax/sealant :)
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