Morris Minor Owners Club

OK, this may be useful to owners of older cars with starter buttons.

I got in my car after a quick shopping trip, turned the ignition on and pulled the starter button.........nothing, not a sound. My first thought was flat battery but I then dismissed that as the car had started immediately only 15 minutes earlier. So I tried again - nothing. I was ready to humiliate myself by getting out in the middle of Aldi carpark and cranking the car by the handle, but fortunately it started on the fourth attempt. I then had to stop for petrol and on trying to leave, the same thing happened - absolutely no reponse but eventual success.

I decide to take a look when I got home, now suspecting the starter switch. However, I decided to check the connections first. All good at the battery (which was showing 12.78v), all good at the starter motor and at the battery to starter switch connection. However, I noticed the nut that secures the starter motor cable to the switch itself was a bit loose. It took a couple of turns to make it nice and snug and has been firing up first time again now for several days, so I'm convinced that was the problem. Nice, easy fix - we like them!

Sounds like a typical fault for those symptoms.
Always start with the basics and actually physically check them, not just 'have a look'. Number of times I've know people say 'it all looks OK' and the problem is a loose connection.
Loose connection will give a volts drop across it because it is a 'resistance'. Easy to end up with intermittent problem as the slightest shake of the installation will change the amount of contact, thus altering the volts available at the end device, be it a starter motor or any other equipment.
On something like a Moggie, it can occur with the cable in the bullet connectors, not just at ring tag and stud/bolt connectors.

Good observation. Just went through a week of stress where the voltmeter was registering just under 12v and at the starter near 14v. The missing 2V kept coming and going ... found some connections at a fuse looked great but alas needed a squeeze. The 2V mystery was solved, no new alternator needed ...