Pig the 1967 2 Door

Let us all know what you are up to with your current restoration project. Get that Minor on the road!
Bigrob
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Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Fri Oct 16, 2020 2:47 pm

Afternoon all.

So finally had the project brought home after weeks of moving house.
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It's a 1967 2 door, that's been layed up since 2001.

When I bought it, I didn't have much time to look underneath in great detail, so just thought it would be the usual rust spots.


Nope.


The loading, unloading and delivery has taken its toll on an already weak chassis rail, which has now collapsed.


Here's the current view of the underside
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My biggest concern, is that there is not a great deal of structure left!

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philthehill
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby philthehill » Fri Oct 16, 2020 3:36 pm

I have seen worse!!
All the parts you need are available.
Do one chassis leg at a time and use the other for the datum points.
Good luck.


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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Fri Oct 16, 2020 6:02 pm

Thanks Phil. I'll do the 'good' side first, then use that as reference for the other side.

The bumper support doesn't seem solid at all, would this mean I can't use a rollover jig?



Some more pictures of the underside

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philthehill
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby philthehill » Fri Oct 16, 2020 7:02 pm

It depends what roll over jig you intend to use.
I have seen jigs that have the front support fitted in the battery box as there is a lot of strong support metal in the surrounding body panels.
Most of these jigs are home made and some use wood/plywood which is easy to cut to size and bolt together. Used in conjunction with a scaffold pole and scaffold plank stands.
Use the search facility to find ideas. There are plenty of ideas out there.
Phil


Bigrob
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Fri Oct 16, 2020 8:07 pm

Oh really? Yeah I'll have a good look around, thanks Phil.

My next step was to just tip her over onto some tyres/mattress or something

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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Richie B » Fri Oct 16, 2020 8:55 pm

Hi
Ive spun my Clarence, a 62 2 door saloon, on a home made wooden rottiserie. 2 pics show basics. combination of 6"x2" and 4"x2" timber bolted together.
Scaffold pole goes through 2 x 18mm ply sheets bolted together, 1 where battery goes and 1 which replaces rear seat back both bolted to bodywork. Not clear in pics are bracing struts to prevent the structure rocking forward and back. weld braces to door apertures to strengthen
structure of car.
I also also set of wheels which have brakes on so it can be moved around a bit.
Once turned into upright position I have fitted chains from bodywork to garage wall for further safety.

Good luck with your project you'll get all the help you need from the folks on here as well as loads of encouragement.

best wishes
Richard
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philthehill
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby philthehill » Fri Oct 16, 2020 9:24 pm

If you tip it over without the bracing there is a good chance you will distort the body. Once distorted I will be hard to get it back right.


Bigrob
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Fri Oct 16, 2020 9:31 pm

Fantastic pictures there Richard, thank you!

The first bracing will be diagonals across both doors, then across between both doors, then between inner wings, and inner wings to battery tray.

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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Sat Oct 17, 2020 2:49 pm

Looking at going forward, I think the best way to get it some what stable is to first brace it.

Then I think it will be best to get the sills and hinge panels done while it's on the floor.

The floors can be done wheels down, but the chassis rails and crossmember I suspect to be infinitely easier with it turned 90 degrees?

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philthehill
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby philthehill » Sat Oct 17, 2020 3:45 pm

I would suggest that you get the body cross braced, mounted it on a rotisserie and then start on the bodywork.
Everything is so much easier when mounted on the rotisserie. Those side & sill panels are not so easy to do with the car wheels down. Been there done that and I know which way I would do the job now.


Bigrob
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Sat Oct 17, 2020 7:26 pm

philthehill wrote:
Sat Oct 17, 2020 3:45 pm
I would suggest that you get the body cross braced, mounted it on a rotisserie and then start on the bodywork.
Everything is so much easier when mounted on the rotisserie. Those side & sill panels are not so easy to do with the car wheels down. Been there done that and I know which way I would do the job now.
Oh really? I've not done a minor before, plenty of bits of other things, but not a whole minor. This will definitely be my biggest undertaking yet.

By cross bracing, I'm picturing:

-An "X" between B and A post both sides
-An "X" between B posts
-An "X" between A posts
-An "X" between inner wings


Or is that overkill?

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philthehill
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby philthehill » Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:16 pm

You cannot overkill on the bracing.

From the photos you have already posted you need to maximise the bracing.


Bigrob
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Sat Oct 17, 2020 9:41 pm

Rudimentary box section roll cage then!

I'll get a few metres of box in and go crazy then.

I want this to work, and I want it to be right, or there's no point.

kevin s
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby kevin s » Sat Oct 17, 2020 10:47 pm

Make sure you fit the bracing so you can test fit the doors, with it in place.

I did the sills and floors on ours with it on the ground and didn't find it too difficult the only bit I really needed to crawl underneath for was the front spring hanger, I just used a few short runs to secure it then seam welded it properly when I had better access. Given the amount of rust in yours I would want to do something like this to get some strength into the core of the shell before rolling it around too much.(ours wasn't much better but it did have umpteen patches vaguely welded over most of the rust which gave it some strength).

Bigrob
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Sat Oct 17, 2020 11:01 pm

I am hugely reluctant to put it on a rollover jig without doing atleast something first.

I know bracing it will give it a real good chunk of support, but i'd like the get the bottom of the door gaps 'properly' together.

Thing is at the minute I can't even jack it up!

kevin s
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby kevin s » Sun Oct 18, 2020 7:28 pm

If you have it on a firm surface I would get hold of as many scisor jacks as I can and support it under anything which is vagulely solid with blocks of wood to spread the load, check the doors fit correctly when closed (rear, top and A pillar), if this all looks OK brace it in all directions, check the doors still fit then take one off. Take the seats, carpets, parcel shelf, kick trim and cover sill off. Then you will need to take stock of what you have, hopefully you will be able to keep the upper part of the inner sill, the rear will hopefully be fairly firmly attached, i would work on sorting out the base of the A pillar first so it is attached to the inner sill. Next will depend on how you plan to fix it, originally the inner sill is spotwelded to the floor and the floor panel goes right out to the base of the boxing panel, some of the floor repair panels seem to include the vertical part of the inner sill and have a seperste sill part though. I bought a sheet of steel and made everything except the base of the outer sill to the original design, this enabled me to repair 18 inches or so at a time and not cut too much out. Once I had repaired the inner sill I worked away from them repairimg one bit at a time.

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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby Bigrob » Mon Oct 19, 2020 1:12 pm

This morning I went out to check how the doors sit in the frame.

Both obviously nearly fall off when you open them.

The drivers side isn't too bad, a bit tight on the quarter but nothing untoward.
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The passenger side however is touching both the wing and the quarter?
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kevin s
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Re: Pig the 1967 2 Door

Postby kevin s » Mon Oct 19, 2020 10:13 pm

I reckon there is a fair bit of rust in the a pillar and the lop of thd bulkhead / base of the windscreen has pushed back a bit.

As the drivers side seems OK I would brace that before touching anything.

Then you will probably have to spread the gap on the other side a little, make a couple of braces from tube with a piece of studding with a couple of nuts on in the middle, weld both ends to the pillars and use the nuts on the studding to adjust the gap until it matches the other side, once happy with it weld the nuts/studding to the tubes.


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