Pickup restoration part three

Let us all know what you are up to with your current restoration project. Get that Minor on the road!
amgrave
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby amgrave » Wed Feb 15, 2017 5:34 pm

That is another good thing with using silicone brake fluid, it does not eat paint and cause rust. In your case a bit of brake fluid is now in the box the cylinder is in and will need removing before protecting the area against rust.


biomed32uk
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby biomed32uk » Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:10 pm

That does indeed look due for a good going over, I have just had my MC out to sort out the cage nuts underneath it, ordinary nuts and bolts had been fitted for the gearbox cross member, meaning removing it becomes a marathon ordeal having to remove the MC as well.

It's a fiddly little so and so to remove.

Mark Wilson
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby Mark Wilson » Wed Feb 15, 2017 10:14 pm

Sorry, minor thread hijack - I was thinking of using silicone, but the instructions with my new Powertune servo (sorry Roy) say silicone shouldn't be used with it. Have any of you with experience of silicone used it with this type of servo?

Mark

les
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby les » Thu Feb 16, 2017 10:11 am

I'd phone the manufacturer and ask for the reason, it's my understanding that silicon is ok if the seals haven't been used with conventional fluid in the past. Be interesting to hear why they say that. I've had silicon fluid in the system for years and so far no cylinder problems. Roy didn't seem happy with it, I think he might have mentioned a spongy pedal in the past but I've not experienced that. Speak as you find! :D


davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Thu Feb 16, 2017 1:21 pm

well without doubt my master cylinder needs a deep clean, but when I replaced the cap and watched for leaks while pressing the brake pedal nothing leaked out, the oil in the chassis was spillages caused while topping up, but still the pool on the garage floor was joined by another flow, and here's the culprit, a cylinder jammed fully open, even under the spring tension of the shoe springs, stripped out now. The oil was coming out through here. So new cylinders on order, not pattern ones like these. Lockheed, more pricey, but worth it.

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davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:18 pm

cleaning up the master cylinder and the hole it sits in inside the chassis, I'm aware that most of the debris down inside this hole is in actual fact the remains of the top coat of paint blistered off by the spillages of brake fluid.
The red primer does seem to have been protected by the top coat and has held firm. Once I've finished cleaning this area down with brake and parts cleaner I'll recover the red primer with some new black, Probably hammerite hammer finish hard wearing paint.
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biomed32uk
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby biomed32uk » Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:57 pm

The Lockheed genuine cylinders are well worth it. A good smear of red rubber grease around the piston before you fit them does no harm as well, that's what I do based on the advice of Roy.

davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Thu Feb 16, 2017 6:50 pm

with a first coat of black, left to dry out.
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davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Fri Feb 17, 2017 12:30 pm

new Lockheeds arrived today, as per the ESM way, arrived the day after ordering them.
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replacing the shoes gets easier with practice, that or front shoes are a doddle to fit compared with rear ones. Bled now just the shoe adjustment to do and I can replace the wheels and let her down off the axle stands.
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Fri Feb 17, 2017 4:11 pm

the button for the power wash wipe, finally fits the hole, I wrapped my largest drill bit in wet and dry and spun it in the hole making it larger so the button finally slipped in with a click, now to wire it up to the pump motor and the fuse in the main bus.
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:15 pm

wiring up the wash pump this morning, the black wire to earth against it's own mount, red wire live feed to switch.
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the black wire from a bar on the main terminals on the engine bulkhead, from here to the second switch bar terminal, when tested this shows power when the ignition is on.
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davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:17 pm

the black and red wires to the switch, but when the ignition is on and the button is pressed, nothing, not even a whirr sound coming from the pump. where have I connected it up wrong?
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davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Sat Feb 18, 2017 12:54 pm

I think it's the switch, after Rob over on electricals pointed me in that direction, Ive re positioned the black wire at the power terminal next the the purple wire as it was located wrongly, got power at the black terminal on the switch when the ignition was on, but nothing at the red terminal. So it must be a duff switch.

later...

I connected the switch wires and the pump started pumping water right away, so a replacement switch is on the cards.
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby mogbob » Sat Feb 18, 2017 3:32 pm

David
With your current electrical ( sorry couldn't resist that opening statement , apologies ) Hat on I'd give the Lucar connectors in the fuse box a " wash and brush up " .
I use a disposable cardboard type nail file , several in a cheap pack ( 3 "/ 4 " / 8 cm / 10 cm long ).
They are strong enough to clean up the connectors , back to clean metal , before attaching the female insulated connector. If you hold the file an inch / 25mm from the end , you can exert some pressure to both the edges and the flat sides.
I always keep a couple in my car breakdown kit....sorts out electrical connections and points , contact breaker and SU fuel pump.
Easier , quicker than sheets of sandpaper ripped up into smaller pieces.
Bob

Fingolfin
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby Fingolfin » Mon Feb 20, 2017 4:57 pm

David,
You might also consider using heat-shrink tubing on the wire-end connectors. Even those behind the dash can suffer from long-term humidity, and corrode on you - and it also can stop a nasty short, preventing bare connectors from contacting metal. It's not always convenient to heat-shrink, but it really does help protect the wiring.
The way to a man's heart may be making food, but the way to my heart is buying me car parts!
Come read about my Minor at An American Moggie.


davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Wed Feb 22, 2017 11:22 am

Cheers Bob and Fin, great advice there, Ive actually covered the connections with black electrical tape, not sure how I'd get the heat to the heat shrink without getting boiling water on the electric parts, I've used heat shrink tube for other non electrical areas where I wanted to protect from scratching paint. Great idea with the nail files Bob I'll get a pack. The new wash wipe button fitted up and caused a deluge of pumped wash wipe water up the windscreen, I can swipe that off my MOT list, next, fitting new rear brake cylinders.
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davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Wed Feb 22, 2017 5:27 pm

new rear wheel cylinder fitted.
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but the banjo leaks, why I don't know, tried re-tightening, used brake pipe sealant, still leaks down from the banjo joint over the boot and drips down onto the newspaper below.
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les
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby les » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:55 pm

Could be you need to soften the copper washers, the bleed nipple looks to have seen better days, so the seating area may be damaged as well. Or even the seat in the union.


mogbob
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby mogbob » Wed Feb 22, 2017 9:32 pm

David ,
Not that Les' sound advice ...re annealing the washer.. needs endorsement but I will endorse it.
Basics...there are two washers involved Item 41 Part No 3H550 and item 43 Part Number 233220A (referring to Moss Europe's website on Minor brakes hydraulics ) . One is smaller than the other. Crunch question .. are they the right way on ?

Heat shrink , if no heat gun , you could borrow one from a mate or use the hair dryer carefully before putting it back in the house. A box of matches and a small tin , to drop the smouldering, dead match into if you are very , very careful.
Bob

P.S 24/02/17 You can also use a soldering iron. Make sure the tip is clean ( emery or sandpaper ) and then gently rub the shrink sleeve from all sides. Don't press the sleeve hard against the wire and keep the soldering iron "moving at all times ". If you either , push hard or let the iron settle at one point , then you will burn / melt the sleeve !!
Last edited by mogbob on Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

davidmiles
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Re: Pickup restoration part three

Postby davidmiles » Fri Feb 24, 2017 12:01 pm

thanks Les and Bob, the leak has stopped. now to replace the drums and they won't go on no matter how hard I try. I'm missing something, the snails are slackened right off, the shoes are the right way around, time to take a break and a cup of tea and a think. the cylinders are Borg and Beck, I wonder if they are larger?
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holding them up they are the same size,
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but look at the cylinder, it's down a bit making the circumference of the whole shoe circle larger? maybe why I can't get my drums on. hey maybe a change of spring is in order?
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