Morris Minor Owners Club

David
Good block ... you can never be too careful jacking up a vehicle. If you recess a hole to accommodate the swivelling jack head , too deeply , you might be inviting a split at the weakest point.
Can I suggest batten around the underside or bits of plywood offcuts , nailed to the side walls of the block. Whack the nails in at an angle
20/30 degrees , alternating so the batten is gripped. If nailed at 90 degrees it's more likely to part company.
Axle stands are a bit trickier trying to guess whether they are level. People resort to gluing thick rubber matting strips to the saddle of the axle stand upright. Trim to size , you don't want to T it up , to rest on the " floppy overhang " !!
Bob

Yes, I may well need to place the lifting block back in use before long Bob. But the great news today is... Alice passed her MOT, with just three advisories, easy fix's, except the engine oil leak, chuffed, can drive her again.


ready to go out for a spin. Once the hubcaps and rear cover are back on.

actually, just noticed on the mot pass certificate above, it says ussued 8 mar 2017, but in the additional information box it says the earliest I can present the car for MOT next year is 8/2/2018?

They're having problems with the mot system today. You were lucky. Well done on your pass.

That's OK, you can present your car up to a month earlier than the expiry date. I always do this so I can put any faults right whilst it is still in date for the MOT.

Congratulations David on getting Alice through the MOT. After a successful MOT my shoulders always drop as I breathe a sigh of relief
for another year. Let the hunt for the cause of the leak begin !
Bob

Great stuff! Well done, David and Alice!

Our motor vehicle inspections here in Missouri are nowhere near as detailed. In Mog's last inspection, they checked that all the lights worked and the footbrakes worked, and that was essentially it. On one hand I like that hands-off approach, because it means Mog passes, but I wish I got more professional guidance out of it like you do.

Hej this has been a fantastic time to follow your resto and has been a perfect place to goto during my own pickup -69 resto since i got the car in a basket. Your outstanding photos has helpt me a lot since spare parts catalogs not always show how it is put together. So a gigantic thank you for all the help. Thomas in Sweden.
PS In Sweden next year we will be free of Mot Control if the car is over 50 years old. The reason is that these cars are always kept in outstanding condition and driven carefully. DS

thanks guys, great to hear that it's been helpful in helping you with your own resto project pickupen. The one thing that I needed to address was the loss of the wing mirror when I renewed the drivers side front wing, so Here Is Alice, showing off her new Mirrors.


you can't use the quarter lights though. But more importantly, visibility is excellent.

They look good, I have mirrors with the same bracket and got fed up with them falling off though, and not being able to use the quarter light.

In the end I cut the U part off of the bracket, just leaving the flat part of the bracket where the screws are, re tapped them M4 or M5 can't remember which now.

Got some low profile dome head cap screws, drilled the window channel to suit and fitted them from the inside. The window channel felt hides them and it doesn't interfere with the window operation, and neither has the mirror fallen off !.

Hi Jagnut, it's hardwood, Oak. It's nice and strong. After some front suspension squeeking, I put the grease gun to good use topping up the lubricant. There's a grease nipple on the offside lower trunnion...


but the same area on the opposite side has no nipple, just a space where either there never was one, or one has broken off?

now, do I get the reamer in there and cut a new thread for a replacement nipple? or are some lower trunnions designed to be used without a nipple?

I got this tap and die set at a charity fundraising event, bid cost me a tenner, not used it yet, so now could be a good time, now then, what size is the thread on that nipple?

I believe all the suspension grease nipples are 1/4" UNF - but you might remove the one from the other lower trunnion and check it, just to be sure. They ought to be the same.

Fin and Jagnut, thank you both, I wound a 1/4 unf die in there and it simply cleaned all the road dirt and grease out of the threads and allowed a brand new grease nipple to screw in there with ease.


just love doing these little jobs, take care of the little one's and they will help keep the big ones at bay.
Touch of grease from the grease gun and that should end that suspension squeeze/creek. Plus a chance to have eyes on around the bits you can't easily see day to day.


I keep going till the grease appears under the self amalgamating tape wrapped around the dust covers. That way I know the grease has flooded the cavity inside the trunnion. And were're away....

When you grease the lower trunnion, you should support the car on the outer points of the lower leg. That will reduce the bearing pressure on the surfaces that are normally under load and those are the ones that need to be greased. Grease flow the path of least resistance, so no point making the critical points hard to get to.

Great success, David! Jaekl's point is quite right. You might also consider sourcing some nipple caps to keep dirt and corrosion off the nipples, like these: https://www.ebay.com/p/?iid=181688370380&&&chn=ps

Available in the UK too

http://www.essentracomponents.com/en-gb ... GwodszAFVQ