well
i too was in the same boat as you
i had to learn off my son who works in a shipyard
he did some welding and i tried to learn off him
but the best method is practice practice and more practice
also buu the flux cored wire for your mig
sealey is the best its dearer but worth it
i am now welding the bottom of the wings and you know how thin they are
just finished the door bottoms
but you can do it get some steel scrap and you will get there i will learn you if you teach me how to spray a good shiny finish using a cheap gun and in a dusty garage haha
alex
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finally doors painted up
this is the door on the left in cellulose top coat before polishing
and the right photo is the drivers door after 2000 grit wet sanding and polishing
Hi,
Looking really good so far, can't wait to see it finished and back on the road!
Best wishes,
Mike.
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
Thanks Mike
yup soon she be belting out the reek on the highways again
i have only driven her off the car transporter never on the roads so this would be a first for me in fact i have never driven a moggie at all
it was always VW's i had like the 1954 oval window
if only i had stored it it would be worth a wee fortune by now
but hey my first car was a 1948 ford anglia with leather seats and running boards
With that in mind then, you should like this picture I took in Milan, Italy, back in September.....[frame][/frame]
1954 Series 2: 4 door: "Sally" -- Back on the ground with (slave) wheels and waiting to be resprayed......
1970 Triumph Herald 1200: "Hetty" -- Driven back from Llangollen in Wales (twice.....)
hard work this game
still if it keeps them off the streets
how about giving people under 30 years of age free membership
thus encouraging them to take up the hobby and keep the old moggies alive[frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]
Robbiet9999 wrote:Lookin good. Keep up the good work.
thanks robbie
not quite on the home straight but
perhaps by the new year she will be belting up and down the highway
i am booked in for the national b+b all paid for so heres hoping she be hot to trot once more
help
i know that there is a throttle return spring
but my question is this what if any keeps the choke cable in place or should there be a spring assist to ensure that it dosent vibrate all over the place
cuz at the moment i cant see that just pushing back in the choke button alone will not make it secure
any thoughts
The choke cable should be solid wire, not woven, there is normally enough friction to keep it in place long enough.
If properly set up the knob end can be twisted slightly to lock it in place.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
MarkyB wrote:The choke cable should be solid wire, not woven, there is normally enough friction to keep it in place long enough.
If properly set up the knob end can be twisted slightly to lock it in place.
thanks marky
i must have thrown the old one away
not thinking that the new/old part was a woven one and wouldent work as well as the solid one
moral of the story always buy your parts from bull motif or similar firms that way you insure you are fitting the corret part
thanks again
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the detail is almost there
note the mess of the main timber frame screws attaching it to the metal body
they refused to budge so will have to be prepared for the english white paint-----------again in situ