By way of Introduction...

[ian.mcdougall]

I think most people say you should temporarily fit timber frame, then fit inner wing/arches to frame then tac weld arches to body remove frame weld and paint then fit frame properly

[Romek]

Thanks both - its a cracking little car in amazing shape considering the lack of paint!

Frame first, wings later, got it. I was hoping there was some slack in the fit but its not too much trouble to paint everything and just leave the wings til last - it will be a better job for it.

Next jobs then strip the dash / engine bay, prime and crack open the maroon B before the weather changes!

[Romek]

Finally got the tub bare metalled and painted and stripped most of the engine bay. That just leaves painting![frame][/frame]

The gearbox is a sorry mess though. There definately movement in the shaft and oil everywhere - so its either the engine seal or the front seal inside the bell housing:[frame][/frame]

[Romek]

[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Any suggestions? Re-conning will be expensive, is it worth risking a second hand ebay one, does anyone have a good spare for sale?

[Neil MG]

Why not just rebuild it yourself? It's not difficult and you don't need any special tools.

[PaulTubby]

Hi, nice work.... see you doing it outside in the elements too, like the work spray tent you made up...

[Romek]

Thanks - the spray tent is a Kyham ridgi-dome 3x3 popup shelter, secondhand from ebay - doesn't cover the whole car but has all sides zipped so you can keep most of the fumes in.

I've never really considered rebuilding the gearbox - seems a bit too complicated when you can pick one up for a few quid. Is it as complicated as it looks?

[Neil MG]

Not complicated at all and even if you bought a replacement you would surely want to check inside to see if it was ok before fitting it? It's definitely easier and quicker to strip and rebuild a gearbox than it is to fit it, test it and take it out and replace with another one. The main wearing parts are layshaft and bearings and 2nd/3rd synchro ring. The bearings usually go first, which cause a noise gearbox. Worn synchro rings obviously cause poor shifting and worn detent ball/groove/spring cause jumping out of gear. All easily fixed and not so expensive. New front and rear bearings/seals and speedo drive seal and it won't leak either!

[irmscher]

Looks a great project

[davidmiles]

I wanted to ask how you got on with the Halfords waterproof car cover? Would it help to place spacers between the roof and the cover to let air pass through? When I get my next project I'll have to leave something out in the rain while the garage is "occupied"

[Romek]

Ok, I'll clean the gearbox and give it a go! What's the worst that can happen

The car cover has been great, but I'll be binning it in the next couple of weeks once I get some paint on the cab. Its great value and a good fit (although maybe a bit snug for spacers). The only reason I'm getting rid of it is that my cab was covered in rust and these have got stuck in the quilted material - so I would be risking the fresh paint. Also snagged in in one or two places...

I'm tempted to get a 'fresh' one once its painted - its going to be a daily car, so to be honest I think I'll wait and see how watertight she is first!

[beelzibus]

Looking like you got lucky with a decent car to start with, and some excellent work so far.
Any updates?

[Romek]

She's left me! It's been a busy few weeks. I set myself a deadline to get the body prep finished, by booking a tow truck and the spray shop - a good idea in hindsight as it all got done and now the drive and shed are strangely empty.

I've gone for original colours, in cellulose - Maroon B, OLW grille, but I'm not sure about the wheels. I usually prefer to keep things original, (avoids decision fatigue). Silver is correct, but I like white, so I left it to the painter to decide. He suggested white with a maroon pinstripe.[frame][/frame]

Some of the panels, bare metalled and primed, ready to go (others already in the car).
[frame][/frame]

I took the gearbox to an specialist to get some bits and they convinced me that the box was ok. As a precaution they advised an upgraded oil seal on the front, (they do this in house) and supplied new gaskets and a rear seal also. Cheaper than usual supplers too. I did give it a good clean with and gentle wire brush and its come up great. Not sure about painting it now as it looks good to me.
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

So, I feel I've turned a corner, but suspect hard work to come.

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

Good progress! Refitting is much more of a pleasure than taking apart as you can see things coming together

[Romek]

One thing I forgot was that oily mess of an engine so started to strip it whilst there's space in the shed. Its completely caked in thick grime and oil - the pics show it after a clean! All looks ok so far - 2 push rods got coked in place and winding out the bolts was a pain and the manifold bolts won't budge. The block exterior is a bit rusty, so may I may give it a light sandblast it before repainting. Judging by the service history, this is the first time its been opened, so a full rebuild is happening whether it needs it or not (139,000 mile engine - not bad!). Still a bit to do here. I'd like to upgrade the rear seal- any experience of these anyone?
[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[PaulTubby]

Superb work, keep up the good work. I had a bad experience with the rear seal conversion kit you can buy, keep standard. They all drip a little now n then from the rear..... use some rtv sealant on the sump end corks ... and convert to duplex timing chain and spin on oil filter conversion and magnetic sump plug are all simple, cheap and worthwhile upgrades I feel

[Romek]

Oh ok - I'm always up for not doing something but i would have thought that the rear seal conversion would have been a good idea. I guess i'm reacting to the mess left by a seal fitted 35 years ago, a new one will probably perforn a bit better!

[Romek]

I've neglected the project for a while as life got in the way, but on the home straight now.

I spent a number of hours fine finishing the rather excellent Woodies frame and it's currently drying from its base coat of 50/50 Cuprinol and Cetol. Even after hours of fine finishing a couple of minor marks have shown though, so will have to revisit those sections. The frame is really a work of art, expertly made, I'm so glad I chose them in the end.

The engine is in the machine shop - almost no wear visible anywhere (a bit on the cam followers / guides) so all pretty standard, amazing considering the 139k miles it covered. As well as the usual, I've ordered the duplex timing chain conversion, oil filter conversion, and a new AP driveline clutch. Still no sign of the tub from the painters, but I'm in no hurry as it will be nice reassembling it when the weather improves. Here are some pics of the frame:[frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[PaulTubby]

Thanks - the spray tent is a Kyham ridgi-dome 3x3 popup shelter, secondhand from ebay - doesn't cover the whole car but has all sides zipped so you can keep most of the fumes in.

I've never really considered rebuilding the gearbox - seems a bit too complicated when you can pick one up for a few quid. Is it as complicated as it looks?

Ive searched on ebay fir the kyham ridgi 3x3 popup shelter but no joy! Keep up the good work

[Romek]

Theres a wrecked one here on ebay if you've got some gaffer tape! - try this -331110561914, they up occasionally.