Morris Minor Owners Club

Some awesome work, I'm in the process of converting mine to hydrolic clutch. How did the land rover master work out for you? I've got the slave, just pondering over a master at the moment. How does the pedal feel?

Thomas.

It works ok but is heavier than I was expecting (not too bad but i thought with a mighty 40 odd horsepower it would be light. I may try a second hole closer to the pivot on the pedal as it seems to have plenty of travel.

Let me know how it works out, I'd be interested to know.

fitted the drivers seat and had a bit more of a play, the clutch works fine and is getting quieter, the noise seems to be the clutch cover which does not seem square (ring the release bearing pushes on does not run true).

For now i will leave it as it is and see if it improves with use, if not I will pull the box over next winter.

I have also made some hangers for the exhaust (so it can use modern rubbers), a bracket for the clutch return spring which will also hold the wiring and some longer rear spring hangers as the springs hit the flange on the chassis legs,hopefully get it all fitted by the weekend s well as setting the left hand ride height which is too high.

The list is getting shorter!

fitted the drivers seat and had a bit more of a play, the clutch works fine and is getting quieter, the noise seems to be the clutch cover which does not seem square (ring the release bearing pushes on does not run true).

For now i will leave it as it is and see if it improves with use, if not I will pull the box over next winter.

I have also made some hangers for the exhaust (so it can use modern rubbers), a bracket for the clutch return spring which will also hold the wiring and some longer rear spring hangers as the springs hit the flange on the chassis legs,hopefully get it all fitted by the weekend s well as setting the left hand ride height which is too high.

The list is getting shorter!

Front panel and radiator are back on, this enables us to run it for longer and up to operating temp, apart from an oil leak from the oil filter it seems fine, only problem was the fan was hitting the top radiator hose, bending it forward stopped this but it is still very close, I am thinking it may be best to go to an electric fan anyway though, if nothing else just for safety, the standard one is a bit like a vertical flymow blade!

The exhaust is almost done as well so next up is setting the ride height/ tightening all the bolts on the LH suspension (RH done) then we can try driving it out of the garage and giving it wash.

Also the heater does not seem to be getting any coolant through it (it's all new and the valve is open so I assume there is an air lock), is there any trick to getting this primed (I was thinking of taking it out side and back filling it with the hose)

Front panel and radiator are back on, this enables us to run it for longer and up to operating temp, apart from an oil leak from the oil filter it seems fine, only problem was the fan was hitting the top radiator hose, bending it forward stopped this but it is still very close, I am thinking it may be best to go to an electric fan anyway though, if nothing else just for safety, the standard one is a bit like a vertical flymow blade!

The exhaust is almost done as well so next up is setting the ride height/ tightening all the bolts on the LH suspension (RH done) then we can try driving it out of the garage and giving it wash.

Also the heater does not seem to be getting any coolant through it (it's all new and the valve is open so I assume there is an air lock), is there any trick to getting this primed (I was thinking of taking it out side and back filling it with the hose)

Front panel all finished, exhaust done, engine compartment just needs bsttery clamp fitting. Next up is to set the front ride height and check all the suspension torques.

That is coming on very well now
Don't forget the bonnet safety catch will you

Yes we have the catch it has the part you are supposed to press broken off but still works OK if you push it sideways. Eventually I will make a new one in steel

Bonnet stripped of all paint, dent in top shrunk as best I can, then skimmed with filler to finish, bonnet door treads and bonnet side strips all primed in epoxy, unfortunatelly I managed to get red instead of grey, so once its flatted I will have to apply a grey undercoat.

Suspension has also been adjusted , just need to check the torques and paintmark them now.

Also need to sort out a rear view mirror and do something about the fuel filler ( we have locking one but no key).

Rear view mirror rebuilt, base of sealer nozzle is perfect to replace nut on mirror which had crumbled away, cover for base was repaired with superglue and tissue and it was finished off with a new sucker.
I managed to get the fuel cap appart and filed the barrel to fit the ignition key.
The trans tunnel has been modified to clear the extra brake pipes (need tap to clean out threads before I can fit it) bonnet safety catch and bumpers (minus valances for now) are fitted, tabs have been welded to another wheel for hubcap and the panels are almost ready for topcoat,.

Finally it's now taxed so technically road legal though obviously it will need the bonnet and floor panels before it goes anywhere.

Been busy painting , all looked really good until I fitted the sill and realised I had used the wrong oew, I had used the modern whiter version.

It will be ok for inside the bonnet and the sill covers but the rest will need a few coats of the right colour.

Looks like you've been cracking on and making the most of good drying weather of late. You're on the home straight and there is always the temptation to rush things , to get the project finished. Just keep the steady pace and keep to the very high standards you've set yourself.
Bob

Looks like you've been cracking on and making the most of good drying weather of late. You're on the home straight and there is always the temptation to rush things , to get the project finished. Just keep the steady pace and keep to the very high standards you've set yourself.
Bob

Turns out the paint is the correct ft3 code, the bonnet resting in place is shown below.
It is a little lighter but nobody else seems to be able to spot it so I think we will work with it as it is for now. But we can't fit it yet because I forgot about the frame which needs cleaning and painting.
As for the rest of it, I have checked all the suspension/steering fastners and paintmarked them to make inspection easier, fitted new rear brake drums, fixed the leaking oil filter, repaired and painted the trans tunnel, fitted the seat belts and modified the rostyle wheels to take hubcaps.
Not much left to do now before we can take it for a drive, fit the bonnet & tunnel, change the carb dash pot, add a diode so the ignition turns off and fit the passenger seat.

Re-painted the bonnet, finish is much better.
All suspension fastners paint marked.
Added closed cell sealing strips to the tunnel and fitted it.
To fit it I needed to do something to replace the missing cage nuts in the x member, I used M6 u nuts
Then I took it for a quick drive up and down the road, good news is brakes, gearbox, axle, seem fine, clutch works (all be it with the release bearing shreiking because the clutch cover is out of true) steering is fine ( needs tracking though). Bad points engine is spewing oil from the oil filter to block joint and from fuel pump blanking plate which looks way to thin to clamp properly, the steel fuel line also has a leak right in the middle despite looking fine.

So appart from the clutch which I knew about already nothing to difficult to fix and then I can take it for a longer drive.

Had you thought of dropping fitted plates in the chassis sections for the crossmember, tapped with the original bsf thread as a substitute for the missing caged nuts? This would avoid mixing metric with imperial.
Edit: Apologies, I'm thinking of a completely different area!!

The 5/32" thick steel plate (Pt No: 2A265) covering the vacant fuel pump aperture is more than adequate in holding the gasket (Pt No: 2A113) in place.

When fitting the new gaskets lightly grease the gasket faces before fitting. It keeps the gasket supple and adds to the longevity of the gasket.

What makes you think that the clutch cover is out of true?
The shriek could be caused by one or more faults.

Les
You are in the right area - OP quoted missing caged nuts for securing the cross member but not in the chassis leg but those in the top and ends of the cross member if read right.
Phil

Yes it is the nuts in the x member, if I had noticed when it was off I would have welded new nuts in place, to make sure they don't get mixed up I am using hex head screws for the 4 metric ones and keeping the x head screws for the rest.

The plate over the fuel pump only looks about 1mm thick so I think it may be something someone has improvised, I will have a better idea when it is off and all the old goo cleaned away.

The reason I think it is the cover is when you look through the apperture where the arm used to be you can see the ring in the centre of the cover wobbling around and the release bearring moving it and out as the engine rotates, I don't think this is normal?