Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

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Neil MG
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby Neil MG » Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:05 pm

Yes, seam sealer after primer. Chassis black is good, but it is not resistant to petrol. Modern Hammerite has had all the nasty stuff taken out and as a consequence is pretty crap.

Waxoyl is an excellent product if used correctly. If you dislike it in particular you can use any one of a number of Dinitrol cavity waxes for the box sections. I do underbody protection as a side business and can recommend Dinitrol ML3125. I would also advise a wax coating on the underside after painting. Dinitrol 4941 is a black wax, which dries pretty much to the touch, that I can also recommend. The main reason to use a high quality wax based product is that is does not dry out completely. This has two key benefits, one being that it is more difficult for water to creep underneath and the other being that it is to a good extent self healing so minor chips will not leave exposed metal. The secret to corrosion protection is adhesion of whatever product you use to the steel. The very best is chemical strip, de-rust, degrease and electro plating, but also highly effective is shotblast degrease and epoxy etch prime, followed by sealer, stone chip and paint, topped off with wax. In any case all box sections and body joints must have a cavity wax inside.

In your case you are getting a good substrate with the grinder, just be sure to remove or treat any rust remaining in pits and joints. Also use plenty of degreaser (panel wipe) prior to priming and do not leave exposed steel for any length of time, it will begin to oxidise within hours!
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Fri Jun 06, 2014 2:10 pm

Excellent, thank you.

That was next question, a stupid one I know but which box sections need waxoyl? Does that mean like the boxing plate area?

Dinitrol looks great, great reviews. How many cans would I need for an underbody? So it would be zinc prime, seam seal then dinitrol 4941 and the other one for cavitys?


Thanks.
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

Neil MG
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby Neil MG » Fri Jun 06, 2014 3:49 pm

There two box sections each side that run the length of the car like a chassis and three box sections that run across together with the A and B pillars and the screen surrounds. The front chassis legs and front box section under the radiator have numerous holes where wax can be sprayed inside as well as a few places where holes can be drilled to ensure total coverage. The box sections below the doors actually run all the way to the back of the car above the rear springs and again you will have to drill a few holes. There is a large box under the rear seat that has good access from the top. The least obvious and accessible box section runs across the car along the bulkhead behind the shock absorbers. All the edges and corners in the boot as well as inside the boot lid and especially the doors should also be protected

I would recommend stone chip and paint on the primer (at least paint and the chassis black is fine) before applying the Dinitrol. Also you need a very thin layer of ML under the 4941 to help with creep. You will need about five litres of ML3125 if you are thorough but careful. it is easy to over apply, particularly under the 4941. You will need about four litres of 4941 so long as you are again thorough but careful not to apply too much.
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Tue Jun 10, 2014 8:44 am

Neil MG wrote:There two box sections each side that run the length of the car like a chassis and three box sections that run across together with the A and B pillars and the screen surrounds. The front chassis legs and front box section under the radiator have numerous holes where wax can be sprayed inside as well as a few places where holes can be drilled to ensure total coverage. The box sections below the doors actually run all the way to the back of the car above the rear springs and again you will have to drill a few holes. There is a large box under the rear seat that has good access from the top. The least obvious and accessible box section runs across the car along the bulkhead behind the shock absorbers. All the edges and corners in the boot as well as inside the boot lid and especially the doors should also be protected

I would recommend stone chip and paint on the primer (at least paint and the chassis black is fine) before applying the Dinitrol. Also you need a very thin layer of ML under the 4941 to help with creep. You will need about five litres of ML3125 if you are thorough but careful. it is easy to over apply, particularly under the 4941. You will need about four litres of 4941 so long as you are again thorough but careful not to apply too much.

Thank you, I've ordered the dinitrol stuff, have you any recommendations regarding firstly, zinc primer (in a spray can) and secondly chassis black? Oh and seam seal I guess, haha, thanks!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

kevin s
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby kevin s » Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:17 am

The best zinc rich primers come in a tin, and have a very high zinc content often referred to as cold galvanising paint, due to the amount off zinc it is pretty thick and best applied with a brush (also more economical).

Epoxy primers are about the best ones going, the marine industry uses them heavily.

I have used waxoil thinned with about 40% clean engine oil in the past, it sets like wax (does not drip) but creeps much better than straight wax, the few areas on mine which have wax on them have survived very well so it does help, I have also seen a Tetraseal product advertized at similar prices to waxoil, anyone tried this?

kevin

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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Sat Jun 14, 2014 7:32 pm

Day #17 - 4 hours done. Music: Ben Howard.


I was supposed to have my friend come down to show me how to weld this weekend but he wasn't available so I thought I'd give it a try myself, here is my first attempt, I didn't start with anything structural obviously, it tidied up ok with some grinding, what do you think? Be honest, I'm trying to learn, any tips would be great.


Cheers, Edd.[frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

Trickydicky
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby Trickydicky » Sat Jun 14, 2014 8:25 pm

For a first time weld that's pretty good :D you will get better the more you do. Take a look at this video for hints and tips. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lzBGZaS1apw
Richard

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Neil MG
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby Neil MG » Sun Jun 15, 2014 7:59 pm

To be honest it is not possible to see if the welds are good or not from that picture and after grinding. But the repair looks quite nice and neat and so long as it is solid with good weld penetration it should be fine.

That linked video is not so applicable to welding thin sheet. I recommend you go to http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/ where there are some very good instruction videos. The key is to learn to get the right pulse (not a continuous run) and to do very small lengths at a time. You must also let the area cool down, which is the most time consuming part, to prevent warping.

As with all things, the key to success is in the preparation. Well fitting repair panels, even gaps and clean steel. Good access and visibility during welding is essential too.
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Mon Jun 16, 2014 10:35 pm

Day #18 2 1/2 hours done. Soundtrack: Thin Lizzy!

So today was more cutting out and welding, first I cut out...[frame]Image[/frame]

And then I welded, bearing in mind this is a self taught very recent skill...I did some spot welds first..[frame]Image[/frame]

Then I laid a couple of beads...checking penetration on the other side as I went.[frame]Image[/frame]

Finally all done for the day, not the cleanest welding but I'm happy I think as it's my second attempt![frame]Image[/frame]

Could someone shed some light on the shipping panel for me? Does it get welded onto the outside of the panel I've just put on as a strengthener for the spring hanging? Is that it's purpose?

Many thanks again, comments, hints, tips, offers of help and free present deliverys all welcome....

Cheers, Edd.
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

taupe
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby taupe » Mon Jun 16, 2014 11:23 pm

Yes it reinforces the rearmost spring mount... you can if you wish cut off the eye part as its a bit of a rust trap or hammer it flat to the inner wing and seam weld for extra strength..

Taupe

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:08 am

Ok! Thanks, is it 100% essential? I've read some conflicting advice on other threads on here!!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

Mark Wilson
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby Mark Wilson » Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:47 am

Just to be pedantic, what you describe as spot welds are normally referred to tack welds. Spot welds are those done with a very expensive spot welder, but many of us use plug welds (ie cut a hole & fill it with weld) as a substitute. Great early efforts, though - you may have overtaken my skill level already!

Mark

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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Tue Jun 17, 2014 8:56 am

You know, as I was writing it I had a funny feeling it wasn't the right term, but was too lazy to look it up!
Tack welds! Thank you!!! I remember reading about plug welds, maybe one day....
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

taupe
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby taupe » Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:36 am

laneychief wrote:Ok! Thanks, is it 100% essential? I've read some conflicting advice on other threads on here!!
Well the floor panel which forms part of the spring mount here is only 1mm..the reinforcement makes it 3mm so some form of local reinforcement is essential I would think.....but having the whole eye part is not.

Taupe

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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:41 am

Cool, I'll put it on and weld it down to the inner wing and around the eye to try and stop some rust!

Cheers!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Sat Jun 21, 2014 12:04 pm

Help! What is this panel??? The boxing panel doesn't seem to extend this far but I can't figure out what it's called for a replacement panel! Nor can I find it on ESM, can anyone help?

Many thanks!!![frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

taupe
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby taupe » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:28 pm

Boxing panel extension...rp113

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:44 pm

Amazing!!! Thank you, I'm guessing it's best for me to weld this in before the outer undersill?

Don't you love removing rusty panels to reveal rust??
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Sat Jun 21, 2014 2:47 pm

Or does it have to be from the inside? How on earth do I grind that bit out?!

Spent a long time the last two days in the garage alone.....going a bit mad.
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1969 2 door. UHU62H

Postby laneychief » Sat Jun 21, 2014 4:29 pm

And, front grill surround panel, steel pattern or steel genuine heritage? There's quite a price difference, is heritage noticeably better, bearing in mind I'm not going for concours, just an OCD level of pretty good!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.


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