Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

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laneychief
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Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:24 am

My first attempt at this side of things, restoring it with a view to swapping it out with mine and doing the same to the other one. I know nothing about any of this, all I've done so far I've done with the Haynes, I'll need a lot of help and gentle instruction geared towards a man with no knowledge of part names or previous engine experience....
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:35 am

Engine on day of collection it was stored for who knows how long with a sump full of oil which when drained was one of the worst things I've ever smelled...[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:51 am

I started off by removing the rocker cover and developing a particularly OCD method of labelling and storing parts, I've decided to label every part, even the simple obvious ones that I know as a method of teaching myself the proper names of them all. I'm using sandwich bags labelled with a number and what is in the bag, and the key to it written down in a notebook I'm keeping alongside the rebuild.[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 11:58 am

After a couple of pictures, I started by removing the bypass hose between the cylinder head and the wate pump with a view to removing the cylinder head. Remember, I'm doing this from following the Haynes instructions. The jubilee clips holding the hose on were so corroded I had to use my bolt crops to snip through them and then the hose the pull it off.[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 12:03 pm

I then removed the nuts holding on the rocker assembly and removed that revealing the valves and the push rods.[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 12:09 pm

I stored the pushrods through cardboard as detailed in the Haynes and also what I've picked up trawling through threads on here. I removed the nuts for the cylinder head in the order described in the Haynes and wiggled the head free revealing the head gasket. This is the first time I've ever seen one of these and I've ever removed a cylinder head so I was very proud of myself and I called it a night and went for a beer![frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 2:09 pm

Cylinder head off I could have a look at the top of the block and the Pistons. They are filthy! The engine still turns over freely so I looked at all four Pistons, I'm planning on stripping it right down and replacing them anyway. On the bottom picture, the blocked up gunky looking hole, is that a water channel?[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 2:23 pm

I then removed the sump and oil cleaner, the distributor drive and the oil filter before turning my attention towards getting the timing gear off and out the way for camshaft removal. This is as far as I've got other than knocking back the locking tabs on the big ends. The big nut on the cam was a pain in the bottom. I've got a socket that fits the steering wheel nut but even with that I had to give it a gentle bit of persuasion first with a cold chisel (after researching similar problems on here). The starter dog turned off fine with just my fingers! More dismantling soon![frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]


Could anyone tell me what advantage, if any, there is to having a duplex timing chain set up? Just thinking ahead to rebuild time and what I want to do. I basically want the most reliable and newly rebuilt engine I can manage, learning along the way.

Cheers,

Edd.
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

kevin s
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby kevin s » Sun Nov 15, 2015 10:19 pm

The duplex chain is stronger and less prone to stretching over time with a wear rate on the sprockets, therefore more accurate cam timing and does not tend to rattle as quickly.

That said on a low mileage classic with regular oil changes and a standard cam, it could be years before you see any problems (carbon particles in oil wear chains very quickly so regular oil changes care critical).

Kevin

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Sun Nov 15, 2015 10:49 pm

Thank you Kevin,

So would there be any downsides to fitting a duplex?

I am leaning towards it currently just trying to get all angles.


Thanks again

Edd
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

Redmoggy
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby Redmoggy » Mon Nov 16, 2015 5:57 pm

No real downside to the Duplex setup. Just a case of want to or not.

Once you have the block stripped, take it to a machine shop and have the bore's and cam bearings measured. If the bores are in spec you may get away with a hone and new rings. Likewise with the crank, if it's not worn out of spec a polish and new bearings could be in order rather than a regrind.

Good luck with the build
Rod

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Mon Nov 16, 2015 6:05 pm

Today's goal was Pistons out, crankshaft out. First the Pistons, they all looked like this:[frame]Image[/frame]
And the big end bearings all looked ok except 3 and 4 which have quite a groove in both the crank and the bearing itself:[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]

This is the crank condition, any thoughts anyone?[frame]Image[/frame]

Cam followers came out next, Haynes didn't say anything about these, luckily I'd read another engine thread on here. They all look in good nick[frame]Image[/frame]
Oil pump out after to remove follower number 8.

The bores all feel smooth to the touch with no gouges or nicks, I don't know how to check them beyond that[frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame][frame]Image[/frame]

Also spotted this hole in the front end plate, it looks a bit messy, should it be there?[frame]Image[/frame]

And on removing the water pump, it's a mess.....engine dip to clean?[frame]Image[/frame]


Until next time!
Edd
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Mon Nov 16, 2015 8:23 pm

Forgive my ignorance but upon fitting a reconditioned engine to your Morris, do you reset the mileage to zero?

As my current one says something like 108,000 miles.

A question I've always wondered and never asked!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

les
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby les » Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:22 pm

It's optional but remember the rest of the car has travelled 180,000!


laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Mon Nov 16, 2015 9:26 pm

Ah yes.

Maybe more wise to note mileage at new engine installation.

Always wondered!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

kevin s
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby kevin s » Mon Nov 16, 2015 10:20 pm

A quick check for bore wear is to see if there is a ridge at the top about 1/4 inch down, this coincides with the position the top ring stops in at top dead centre.
To check it properly you need an internal micrometer and take measurements accross the bore at several places, any machine shop should be able to do this for you.

Neil MG
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby Neil MG » Tue Nov 17, 2015 8:21 am

You need to take the block and crank to your chosen machine shop and let them check for you before doing the necessary work. They will also tell you exactly what parts need to be replaced and the sizes. They should even be able to order for you at trade prices. You are against the clock now as surface oxidisation begins as soon as everything is apart and cleaned up.

My guess is that you will need a crank regrind and new shells (mains and big ends), but may get away with just honing the bores and new rings for the pistons. Possibly not even that! But you must get an expert to measure and advise. just have them confirm camshaft, followers and bearings too, also the oil pump, but it sounds like they may all be ok.
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Tue Nov 17, 2015 10:24 am

Thanks Neil, I've just found a shop not far from where I work and where I'm restoring the engine so will ring them and get it over ASAP.

I've still a few little bits to remove, studs mainly.

I'm planning on renewing the oil and water pumps, they aren't too expensive new.

Thanks for the help!
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.

mogbob
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby mogbob » Tue Nov 17, 2015 12:02 pm

In preparation for removing the studs I'd wire brush the base of the studs where it joins the block , wipe clean and treat with a few drops of Plus Gas dismantling fluid overnight. ( If you have a stubborn one you can always make a little ring out of Blutack to encircle the stud , so that the Plus Gas makes a little pool around the base of the stud ).

Use the two nuts trick to unwind the stud out of the block. ( put two nuts on the stud, with two spanners " lock them together " , then with one spanner on the lower nut , unwind the stud ).If it's really stubborn and / or you are going to replace the studs for new anyway , you can resort to a stud remover tool. Some of the tools have a tendency to chew up the plain part of the stud during the process.
Well done on the dismantling so far ... not bad for a first timer ( I always grossly understate things ).As we West Country boys say Proper Job !
Bob

laneychief
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Re: Edd's 1098 engine rebuild.

Postby laneychief » Tue Nov 17, 2015 12:07 pm

Cheers Bob, great tips as usual!

Just phoned the shop, very helpful gentleman. Delivering the engine to them next week after finalising dismantling Thursday/Friday!

Then to just make sure I've got all the parts to hand neatly packaged to show him.

We discussed unleaded head conversion, I know this is a dividing topic. I am leaning towards it with my reasoning being eventually I am planning on doing a round Britain coast to coast trip in this Morris, lands end up the west coast to John o groats then back down the east coast to lands end again.

So with the mileage I'm planning on doing in this car, I feel this is worth it. If scientifically and mechanically you can convince me otherwise be my guest!

Cheers!
Edd
'If you can meet with Triumph and Disaster
And treat those two impostors just the same'

Edd, 26, Devon.


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