Morris Minor Owners Club

Haha yeah I think it was just rubbish on the manifold or in the clamp that was burning off I just started it up again to show my mum's boyfriend and no longer smoking.
I did take the speedo out to look at the bulb and the base was in the holder but no glass or anything replaced the bulb but still got nothing from it
And when I just turned the ignition on I had an ignition light but no oil pressure light. But as I started the engine the light came on and went out when the engine ran.... strange

Tomorrow if the weather is any good ill be fitting the bumper and one hockey stick as the other has no studs
ill take it for a test drive round the block and see how she goes and may look into getting the wipers and heater fan working they seem to be an intermittent problem but they both were working suddenly when the engine was fitted so most probably a loose connection

Is the wire connected to the pressure switch by the dizzy or the one on the oil filter?

panky wrote:Is the wire connected to the pressure switch by the dizzy or the one on the oil filter?

It is connected to the pressure switch by the dizzy. Just a thought is there a way to test the light without the switch as in connect a AA battery to the connection and to earth? Or something similar to test the loom?

Take the wire that is connected to the pressure switch off of it and earth it out somewhere, the bulb should light if the problem is with the pressure switch. If the bulb still does not light the problem is in the wiring up to the bulb.

If you connect the switch end of the wire direct to earth the bulb should light up.

Whoops you beat me to it

Spooky

Ah great thank you I thought there was a way to it ;)

Hey guys
So thought I'd see what you guys think I have a tool that when connected to the battery let's me choose what polarity I want to go through the circuit. I did this on the oil pressure light. I disconnected the connector from the oil switch and I put a negative current through the wire and got nothing out of it
But when I put a positive current through it worked!!
Any ideas how I could sort this out? As you say it should be negative

Also I've driven her for just over 70 miles this week to work and back with no issues. One morning at -2 frosty cold start to. She needs alot of adjusting though and does take some time to start but other than that she's been great

Not sure what you mean about the polarity tool but if the car is negative earth an you connect the pressure switch side of the circuit to earth (with the battery connected) then the bulb should light up.

I assume you have positive earth and so, when you earthed the wire to the switch, the light came on?

The polarity of the car is set by which terminal is earthed once the other terminal is connected to the wiring harness you have a difference of 12v between the "live" or "hot" wires and the body of the car. Originally none of the electrical parts of a Morris Minor were polarity sensitive so you can easily swap.

This is the tool, you can choose weather to put positive or negative current through it
The car is negative earth hense why I have a feeling the light doesn't come on
Is there something that has been missed out then on the negative earth conversion which is stopping the light coming on?[frame][/frame]

I've not seen one of those before, does it have batteries in it? Do you do the tests with the car battery disconnected?

Right, that device connects to the battery and there is a sharp probe at one end.

It works exactly the same way as a simple test light/circuit tester - my favourite tool when working with vehicle electrics. (If you connect the clip on the test light to earth the light will be illuminated when you touch a live wire. If you connect the clip to a live feed the light will show when the point is touched to earth.)[frame][/frame]


The advantage of your device is that you can just select whether you are connected the positive or negative side of the battery. Just like having two circuit testers in one, BUT, with the added advantage that you have an additional cable and clip so you can also add a power supply. It should be noted that the power supply will always be the same polarity as the battery (it will act as an earth in the negative mode). All in all a nice piece of kit!

So now I just need to understand whether it was the light on the tester that worked or the light on the gauge?

In theory, if you car is negative earth then, touching the probe set to positive to the switch should cause the device LED to light with the engine off. Once the engine is started the LED should go out. That is because the switch is NC (normally closed) to earth allowing the current to pass. Once the engine is started and the switch encounters pressure it goes open circuit (not connected to anything). Connecting the device set to negative to the switch should have no effect in any circumstance as you are just connecting earth to earth or earth to open circuit.

Now connecting the probe to the switch cable (disconnected from the switch) should cause the LED to light up when the device is set to negative. In other words there should be 12v in the wire with the ignition switched on. This is what I am guessing you did? If so then try the following.

With the power lead clip connected to the cable the gauge light should come on when it is set to negative (I.e. earth)

If the switch has failed then it will be permanently open circuit and so the device LED will not light in any case.

Note that changing from positive to negative earth will have no effect on any of the circuits, so no need to worry about that in this case.

I hope that makes sense!

panky wrote:I've not seen one of those before, does it have batteries in it? Do you do the tests with the car battery disconnected?

You connect it to the battery on the car when put the probe on somewhere it tells you if you have current you then can choose weather you want to out negative or positive current through to test it. It pretty much bypasses all the rubbish connections and wiring

Neil MG wrote: In theory, if you car is negative earth then, touching the probe set to positive to the switch should cause the device LED to light with the engine off. Once the engine is started the LED should go out. That is because the switch is NC (normally closed) to earth allowing the current to pass. Once the engine is started and the switch encounters pressure it goes open circuit (not connected to anything). Connecting the device set to negative to the switch should have no effect in any circumstance as you are just connecting earth to earth or earth to open circuit.

Now connecting the probe to the switch cable (disconnected from the switch) should cause the LED to light up when the device is set to negative. In other words there should be 12v in the wire with the ignition switched on. This is what I am guessing you did? If so then try the following.

With the power lead clip connected to the cable the gauge light should come on when it is set to negative (I.e. earth)

If the switch has failed then it will be permanently open circuit and so the device LED will not light in any case.

Note that changing from positive to negative earth will have no effect on any of the circuits, so no need to worry about that in this case.

I hope that makes sense!

Haha yeah it is a very good tool.

Well as soon as I put the probe to the terminal the devices LED lights up without the engine on. I have not tried testing with the engine on yet though

ok thanks for the help ill give this all a go tomorrow and see what happens and will report back with my findings

Hey so just thought I'd say I havnt been able to sort my oil light out yet but I've renewed my gearbox oil. I'm glad I have as it was very low (possibly from the tow home)
But also found this in the sump plug
Ill be searching diagrams etc to see if I can figure where it came from [frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

Took Ona to Austin Morris day Sunday. Covered 120 miles and she didn't play up once she stood out a bit at the show but looked right at home between her friends

My oil preassure light and fuel gauge is finally working as they should thankfully the sender was stuck in one position so now reading what it should speedo cable replacement next I think

Excellent, how did the engine perform.

panky wrote:Excellent, how did the engine perform.

She ran great cruised at 55 / 60 just wish the hills wouldn't kill her speed so much I have got some new rear doors for her to ready for the summer as the drivers side is past repairing and decided I will be replacing the whole passenger side due to it being made by someone who really didn't know what they were doing. And nothing lines up or is the right shape