I've acquired an alloy inlet manifold from the scrappies, like this one only much, much, much grubbier :
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Whilst the body and the mating faces on mine are all in excellent condition, the water pipe attachment stubs have seen better days (unlike the one in the picture!!) and I'm not sure there's enough solid material to securely clamp a rubber pipe onto.
As far as I can determine, on balance adding a water supply has no significant detrimental effect in summer and helps the choke to go off earlier in winter, so it would appear sensible to connect it (Discuss )
So, does anyone know of a reliable way to remove the steel stubs and fit new ones, e.g. unscrew(?) / drill them out and screw(?) / solder / braze in new pipes?
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My name is Xog and I am from Adderley Park. Greetings earth people...take me to your leaded.
i think that tube is cast into the casting, so you'd be hard pushed to get it out. with a long perfectly sized drill you could machine it out with the right equipment. Alternatively you could push a smaller tube down the inside (only just smaller) and connect your hoses to that tube instead/aswell.
One of the ideas behind a heated inlet is to maintain reasonably constant inlet temperature which supposedly helps with fuel economy. I've got one on mine and it's been on there since september without issues, but i've heard of alot of people not being able to tune their engine right with it fitted, and that the only solution was to disconnect it.
Don't bother! No need for the water heating - ever. It is in fact just a pipe cast into the manifold. I suppose if you are determined you could carefully shell out the old pipe - and slide in a new one. But there must be a good chance of maybe breaking into a gas passage - so my advice - just use it as is and forget the water. After all - twin carb manifolds don't have water heating - and the engine copes just fine.
Not using the water does simplify things, not least by not increasing the length of water piping/joints (= points of failure), so I'm not wedded to it if there's no gain. Does water heating really affect fuel consumption much?
Anyway, not sure I could drill the entire pipe out if it's cast in as there's a dog-leg in the middle; I'd assumed the protruding ends were just fixed into the casting.
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My name is Xog and I am from Adderley Park. Greetings earth people...take me to your leaded.
Best power with coldest possible mixture. As it is compressed in the cylinder by the rising piston - the mixture reaches ~ 300/400 C even before the spark ignites it! I can't see the odd couple of degrees the water heating may be able to add are going to make any great difference!
that sucks
may disconnect it for summer! although it is on the return circuit for the heater so closing the heater tap would stop water flowing to it anyway wouldnt it?
the manifold does ample job of keeping fitting my carb with the LCB manifold. i tried separating a Marina manifold for its inlet but the LCB has quite a straight shot out of the ports and the Marina inlet wouldnt clear the centre pipe.
Fair point BMC, PV=nRT and all that, so why did they done do that to the manifolds then - seems additional complexity and production cost for no appreciable gain!?!?
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My name is Xog and I am from Adderley Park. Greetings earth people...take me to your leaded.
BMC, I thought you were the font of ALL Moggie knowledge - the 'Neo' of the Morris 'Matrix'. If you don't know then all hope is lost!
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My name is Xog and I am from Adderley Park. Greetings earth people...take me to your leaded.
the reason for waterheating the manifold on any engine is to assist fuel vaporisation which will help even mixture distribution improving efficiency & emissions etc .
These manifolds were never fitted to Minors .......... Yes - the idea is that the fuel won't be tempted to 'pool' in the base of the manifold - which I suppose could happen when idling/poodling along. At decent revs/throttle opening I can't see the mixture having any time for 'pooling' - it should be whizzing along at near to the speed of sound! And as it is heated greatly on compression - there won't be any 'pooling' once it gets inside that cylinder!!
As Roy says a heated inlet manifold could rob you of power potential. The cooler the fuel/air mixture is going into the engine the more potential there is for power, but maximum power also needs good fuel atomisation and this improves with temperature and air speed! So as always a bit of a compromise and no one single solution.
The Minor has always had a heated inlet manifold, it is bolted or joined to the exhaust manifold to achieve it - just a pity that the heating can't be turned off once the engine has warmed up and is into the 'power' phase! Also the heating was a bit extreme at the base of the inlet manifold once warmed up, which is one of the reasons why BMC/Leyland moved away from exhaust heated inlet manifolds to water heated, e.g the Metro/Maestro/Montego. The exception of course were the twin carb set-ups which had neither (Midget, Cooper Minis, MG 1100/1300 etc.), but some at least had a warm air feed to the air filter box.
Heating the manifold will noticeably help cold running, reduce the time the choke is needed and in cold weather, like now, prevent the carb from icing up and actually stopping the engine running altogether! Having the exhaust, like an LCB, close by is not enough in the cold running or warm-up phases.
If the car is only used in warmer weather, it probably doesn't make much difference whether the manifold is heated or not. If it is used in the colder weather and particularly really cold, it makes a real difference to cold and warm-up running and could even make sure that the engine keeps running in weather like today. So even though the twin carb cars had no direct heating, I would still plumb the manifold into the heater return.
Did the later MInors have the same adjustable intake pipe into the air cleaner as the later Minis, 1100,s and 1300,s had? One setting to pick up the intake air close to the exhaust manifold in winter and the other away from it for the summer?
Did the later MInors have the same adjustable intake pipe into the air cleaner as the later Minis, 1100,s and 1300,s had? One setting to pick up the intake air close to the exhaust manifold in winter and the other away from it for the summer
Providing the breather pipe was long enough, then yes, you could rotate the 1098 air filter can.
Older and more confused than I could ever imagine possible.
I can't see how the 'water heated' manifold can improve cold running - or reduce choke time - since the choke will surely be IN long before the water heats up......... and by definition - 'cold running' surely implies cold circulating water ??
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