Ital 1275 starter ring gear

[morriskid2010]

Hi guys, I have acquired a 1275 Ital/Ford Type 9 box to go into my car soon.

I have removed the clutch and also flywheel from the engine as the ring gear was pretty shot too.

Two problems- one is clutch: I have a new minor clutch that fits the flywheel perfectly, but the Ford box has 23 splines, and so I need a different friction plate to the minor's.. The one I have looks like a cortina part from the internet, but I cant seem to find a similar plate at any of the local parts shops.

I was wondering whether anybody has any knowledge of what clutch bits to use on the back of an Ital 1275? I will be retaining the original release bearing and fork. It looks like the box has the fitting kit on it too, which means that the original clutch linkage should work just fine.

Secondly.. I ordered a ring gear that was described to fit a Marina/Ital 1300, Allegro 1100/1300 etc...

My problem is that this ring gear is way bigger than the flywheel, so I'm confused as to what car my flywheel may be from- it has 6 bolt holes and the ring gear inner diameter is approx. 9 5/16" (236mm). Could it be a 1098?

Any advice to help my confused self would be of great help!

[Mogwai]

sounds like the engine has a modified 1098 already fitted the marina ones are larger. for the clutch use a 1098 cover & a centre plate for a 1.6 sierra/cortina (5 speed type) . I have used this in the past & worked fine but now use the complete sierra clutch which will require the dowels to be repositioned for 3 instead of 2 & a concentric release bearing

[bmcecosse]

Yes - the 1098 flywheel is smaller than the 1275 - so you need a 1098 ring gear.

[minor_hickup]

A sprite 1275 ring gear is the one to go for. Its the same size as the 1098 but with a chamfer. This stops the starter fouling the ring gear when it is dissengaged.

[morriskid2010]

Wow! Thanks for all that advice guys! Been searching web for ages to no avail. I suspected it had a minor flywheel but I thought that they only had four holes where mine has 6. I will get on the web and order my new parts! After more searching at local motor spares shops, I have found that I can't buy the clutch friction plate I want without buying a kit. So looks like i'll send it off to be refaced along with another rare one from our old yank tank.

I need a new bypass hose for my engine too but I've no idea which type is best. It has a straight rubber pipe ATM.

I've also heard that because of using a different cylinder head that the heater tap will foul the battery?? (late type)

Thanks again for your help.

Harvey

[Mogwai]

If you go on the QH website you can look up clutches etc & gives the part No's for the individual bits with cross referencing to OE & competitor No's . Handy to arm yourself with some numbers as some staff at motor factors haven't got a clue if the computer says no

A piece of std coolant hose the correct diameter & length would be sufficient for the bypass. That's all i did

The heater tap will be offset slightly. On mine I fitted a plain pipe union & have a remote inline tap. I think others have cut the battery tray back a little or made adapters

[bmcecosse]

Just use a heater tap that doesn't foul the bulkhead.

[Declan_Burns]

If you go for the adapter, this is what it looks like on mine. The valve is the angled type from a mini.[frame][/frame]
Below is the adapter to change the angle.
Close up before it was sweat soldered and painted.
4mm flat bar and 1/2" copper pipe from the DIY and using base of heater valve/gasket as a template to mark out the flanges.

[frame][/frame]

Regards
Declan

[morriskid2010]

Hi guys been away a few days. Back now.

Declan, thanks a lot for posting those pictures up of the heater tap alteration. That's a pretty good idea and as I have access to steel pipe and welder, I may knock something up like you, except weld rather than solder, as I really like the idea.

I will put some pictures up of the engine when it's all in and running, hopefully soon.

Regards

Harvey