Head gasket problems on 1275cc engine.

[yellowpinky]

Hello all,

In 2010 I had a 1275 Midget engine completely overhauled and fitted to my van. It has been great appart from it has now blown it's second gasket in two years. The first time it went I did the work myself and replaced the gasket with the same 'payen' type, which i belive is standard. I was advised that it would probably be ok not skimming the head and block as the engine had only had a complete recon a few months earlier. All has been well till recently until it has blown again.

I am looking to do the work myself as my mechanic lives too far away and i can't find anyone I can trust locally. But I have a couple of questions regarding which type of gasket before i start - baring in mind that ideally I want to find a gasket that is superior and more durable to save me this problem happening again. On ebay I found this gasket made of stainless steel, but it is so expensive. What do people think of this gasket? Any suggestions for something better than the payen type?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300563847356? ... 1436.l2649

Also, how essential is it to get the parts skimmed? Can i get away with just skimming the head? if I am doing the work myself it will be easy to take the cylinder head to a specialist...but i have no chance removing the whole engine.

[moggydriver62]

I have a 1275 engine that blew the head gasket. The head has some brass
plugs pressed in to it and they moved up a little,and let the coolant leak
I took them out and tapped the head 1/4 taper thread. Put in brass taper
plugs,and re surfaced the head.

Kenny.

[bmcecosse]

Where is it blowing?? You need to check the surfaces for flatness...... If not flat - they will need to be made so. Is the engine greatly overbored? Are you using the later Y marked studs - and flanged nuts ? Gasket smeared with thin film of grease both sides? Torqued to 50 ft lbf, and retorqued after the first heat cycle?

[les]

You should first lay a steel rule on the joint faces this will give you a good idea of the flatness or not, no gasket will seal a warped jointing face. There used to be a decent competition gasket for the early 1275 mini units. I still remember the number, aht188, sad I know! Mini sport may do a similar one.

[bmcecosse]

If not flat - no gasket will seal......

[yellowpinky]

Thankyou for all your comments.

I have dismantled and removed the gasket. This time there wasn't any damage to the gasket...It looks like there was some water/anti freeze tide marks towards the side of the engine. I took the head to a specialist who does the skimming. He did a check and said it was ok. I layed a steel rule across the block bit too & that seems fine. I have given both surfaces a clean and bought another 'payen' type gasket.

I don't know if the engine is greatly overbored or anything about y marked studs. Sorry. I can check with my mechanic who oversaw the project and took it to a place in Burwell - Cambridge where all the machining was done.

I am curious about using a thin layer of grease over the gasket. This is to improve the seal? Is it still ok to use grease on the payen type gasket? as it appears to have a kind of sealing coating on the gasket. I am eager to try it.

Also, although both surfaces are clean I am wondering if I should use a chemical to get rid of any invisible residue. Perhaps thinners or petrol on a clean rag???

[bmcecosse]

Thinners - yes - just nothing abrasive. And yes - a thin smear of grease on each face. Why did you think it had blown the gasket - if there is nothing wrong with the gasket when you lifted the head ?? What were the symptoms??

[yellowpinky]

Well...the last time I drove the van it seemed a little bit lacking in it's usual performance...I then noticed some oil where i was parked...On ispection I found some antifreeze plattered down the side of the engine and frothy goo inside the engine filler cap. Perhaps I was wrong to assume it that it was a gasket issue? Is there such a thing as a minor blow on a gasket? When it went before it blew between two cylinders and I lost loads of compression etc...[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

I think it was just a 'weep', would maybe have been resolved by just torquing down the head - the first event between the cylinders - now that's a REAL head gasket failure!

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

After fitting a new head gasket you need to tighten it down again after the first heat cycle, following the correct stud nut tightening sequence.

[drivewasher]

Sorry chaps, I just can't get my head round putting grease on cylinder head gaskets. IMHO both surfaces shoukd be SQUEAKY CLEAN and of course as said, flat.
Iv'e said this before, that grease is used purley to hold gaskets in place whilst two components are assembled. The gasket itself forms the seal taking up any iregularities in the flatness of the two surfaces. This is for cork and paper type gaskets used for example on timing chain covers, water thermostat covers, sumps, carburetters and rocker covers.
Definatley not on the cyl head gaskets that appear fiborousy (new word) as they are usually impregnated with a kind of sealant glue and grease would inhibit it's sealing abillity.

As for copper gaskets the idea is as the copper is softer than steel when the two flat surfaces of steel are bolted together the copper is compressed into the shape of what little irregularity there is between them. Some copper gaskets are multi layered or laminated to improve the "flattening out effect" some even have a hollow tubular edge so as to dissipate more copper material there. So why put grease between the copper and the steel because it never sets and as it gets hotter it even thins and turns to oil like consistency that make it easier for the hot gasses under high pressure to "slip by"

please don't take offence each to his/her own, but thats the way it is in my domain

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

After fitting a new head gasket you need to tighten it down again after the first heat cycle, following the correct stud nut tightening sequence.