Just in the last two days My old Moggie is starting to sound Like a beatle in the low gears. souls very snare drummish on take off ,, and its not too bad when in full trottle.
I have checked the exhaust for a hole or something.,but it appears to be Ok. Also the sound appears to be coming from the Engine rather than the exhaust..But it is that kinda faulty exhaust sound..
Just got the Heater fixed now this..!!!! I was fully happy for 24 hours!!
any suggestions would be appreciated !
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
is the noise coming from under the carburettor?? in other words
where the exhaust front pipe joins the exhaust manifold. You
can check with the engine running to see if you can feel the
blowing of the joint.....but don't touch it it is very hot!
Willie
Just after speaking to a brother of mo=ine on this, It did coincide that I had the choke fully out for about a 10 mile journey..and he reckons I have flooded the carb .. I am rbringing it for a general service tomorrow anyway and i will get Mechanic to look at it.
Anybody know a good website to learn the basics of Car mechanics ??
Thanks for all suggestions.
56 Splitscreen wrote:Lads..
Hello to all..
Just in the last two days My old Moggie is starting to sound Like a beatle in the low gears. souls very snare drummish on take off ,, and its not too bad when in full trottle.
I have checked the exhaust for a hole or something.,but it appears to be Ok. Also the sound appears to be coming from the Engine rather than the exhaust..But it is that kinda faulty exhaust sound..
Just got the Heater fixed now this..!!!! I was fully happy for 24 hours!!
any suggestions would be appreciated !
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
Found the problem, half the lip of it is missing where its joined to manifold,
Have ordered a brand new one as the man is the exhaust centre calls "a complete system" all it is is one long pipe.
I have agreed for him to fit it !!
just as a matter of interest are they easy enough to fit ??
56 Splitscreen wrote:Just after speaking to a brother of mo=ine on this, It did coincide that I had the choke fully out for about a 10 mile journey..and he reckons I have flooded the carb .. I am rbringing it for a general service tomorrow anyway and i will get Mechanic to look at it.
Anybody know a good website to learn the basics of Car mechanics ??
Thanks for all suggestions.
56 Splitscreen wrote:Lads..
Hello to all..
Just in the last two days My old Moggie is starting to sound Like a beatle in the low gears. souls very snare drummish on take off ,, and its not too bad when in full trottle.
I have checked the exhaust for a hole or something.,but it appears to be Ok. Also the sound appears to be coming from the Engine rather than the exhaust..But it is that kinda faulty exhaust sound..
Just got the Heater fixed now this..!!!! I was fully happy for 24 hours!!
any suggestions would be appreciated !
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
The problem is usually getting the bend in the rear section over the rear axle without getting the front bend trapped at the front, but I have only ever fitted one with the car on a jack & axle stands.
If the car is up in the air on a ramp, then there should be no problems, and the connection to the manifold at the front is dead easy.
The flared manifold end can sometimes be a pig to seal completely. Usually needs exhaust sealing compound. Always use two bolt clamp, the single bolt versions are rubbish. But yes, quite easy to fit.
I have owned Minors on and off over the last 35 years
and have NEVER used sealing stuff on any of them. If you
fit the system properly and the clamp is in good condition
it is perfectly possible to get a leak free joint. In fact one
of my exhausts snapped just below the flared joint and I
spend half an hour at the roadside beating the broken
end into a new flared shape. It worked,it didn't leak, and
I still didn't use sealing compound. I think the modern
day fitters use the sealer because it saves them having to
take too much trouble.
Willie
You've been lucky Willie. Jointing compound of any sort should never normally be used or needed especially when a gasket is used. Oh for a perfect world.
I hope the bend at the front of the pipe is ok when your man fits it, i've had no luck at all with the two systems that I bought. Both fouled where the pipe goes through to the engine compartment. The first one wouldn't fit, so I started to alter it, big mistake! Tightening the bend prevents the system running parallel to the floor pan, thus throwing the rear fixings out. So I bought one from Rover which also didn't fit. I eventually found an old exhaust from a moggy which fitted ok. When this goes I'll look for another old pipe or patch this one up. I,m sick of the crap that some companies sell. I wonder how many exhausts are forced to fit under tension because of poor workmanship. They can do the talk but not many can do the walk.
ps: sorry to go on, yes they are easy to fit, IF THEY ARE MADE PROPERLY!
Re my last post re manifold connection. My apologies if you get the impression I'm trying to "have a go". NOT my intention. The manifold side of the connection will be, in some cases, be 45 or more years old and as such has probably deteriorated (pitting, fretting, corrosion etc). A perfect seal is therefore not always possible in spite of thorough cleaning. I'm not trying to excuse the use of sealer but it is sometimes inevitable.
Most industrial, marine refrigeration plants utilise flared pipe connections (similar to Minor1000 exhaust manifold) with total success. They have to be really gas tight. R22 (refrigerant gas) is expensive so even a small leak cannot be tolerated.
Thanks for all the replys lads.
She is being fitted in the morning and at this stage Im a small bit apprehensive.
Thanks to Gareth/Poached egg.. on his advice also.
I will let ye know the outcome.
PS I may travel over from Ireland for The London Brighton Rally !!!
Id love tooo do it !!
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
Make sure that your engine top steady is fitted and adjusted properly. Also have a close look in your rear view mirror at 40 mph at night - If the headlights behind make a figure of 8 then there are other vibration problems that caused your exhaust to break (gearbox/propshaft ).
If the top steady is fine and also there are no bad vibe's then don't worry. but otherwise they can can cause a new exhaust to break in a few months.
Secondly - jointing compound. If you've been driving for a while with a half broken flange then it is possible that the manifold side of the joint has warn away a bit, and that can leak enough to fail an MOT. Jointing compound will help but it's important that the flange is cleaned up properly and that the flared end of the pipe fits well. That kind of care is rare in the average garage today so it is often better to DIY or get a mate to do it.
I have also been the victim of trying to fit poorly made exhausts (seems to be all there is these days??). One was so bad that I had to disconnect the rear spring and jack the car away from the axle to get the exhaust far enough back to get it into the engine bay!!!
All my problems started because of a damaged propshaft universal joint that caused a chain reaction of other problems, but after 2 years and 2 gearboxes, 3 exhausts and a broken engine backplate, I'm now paranoid about vibrating rear view mirrors!! lol
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Ray Thats gas !! your dead right..
Noticed it a few times..
Rather than a figure 8 its like a pair of Shades and I though I was being spooked last night when I noticed ..last night being Halloween and all.
Can I ask you what is the Top Steady ??
RE my gearbox..My gearbox will not stay in first gear !! I have to start it in second. She slips out of first after about 5 seconds !!
This does not bother me really !!
I am getting a funny feeling that this guy is going to end up shoving bck in the old exhaust and saying that he can do nothing with it !!
Hopefully not though
Thanks for the help..
rayofleamington wrote:A small caution to ya Mr.56!
Make sure that your engine top steady is fitted and adjusted properly. Also have a close look in your rear view mirror at 40 mph at night - If the headlights behind make a figure of 8 then there are other vibration problems that caused your exhaust to break (gearbox/propshaft ).
If the top steady is fine and also there are no bad vibe's then don't worry. but otherwise they can can cause a new exhaust to break in a few months.
Secondly - jointing compound. If you've been driving for a while with a half broken flange then it is possible that the manifold side of the joint has warn away a bit, and that can leak enough to fail an MOT. Jointing compound will help but it's important that the flange is cleaned up properly and that the flared end of the pipe fits well. That kind of care is rare in the average garage today so it is often better to DIY or get a mate to do it.
I have also been the victim of trying to fit poorly made exhausts (seems to be all there is these days??). One was so bad that I had to disconnect the rear spring and jack the car away from the axle to get the exhaust far enough back to get it into the engine bay!!!
All my problems started because of a damaged propshaft universal joint that caused a chain reaction of other problems, but after 2 years and 2 gearboxes, 3 exhausts and a broken engine backplate, I'm now paranoid about vibrating rear view mirrors!! lol
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
The engine top steady is a small bar that connects the engine to the bulkhead, just under the battery. on the left hand side. On the engine side it bolts on under the back left cylinder head nut (at the side of the rocker cover). The bar is adjustable and also has rubber bushes held inside cup washers.
This is one of the few things on Moggy's that are not well designed, and the bracket on the car side tends to snap off. To hide that, people have been known to throw the top steady away!
If it is there, lean on it to make sure it is solid. If it's missing or Broken, Grumpy's stock an improved assembly that is more reliable than trying to repair the original.
I expect your problem is more likely to be gearbox or propshaft though!!
You seem to be happy to live with a dodgy gearbox, but if the bearings are sufficiently worn out, the vibrations will gradually shake your car to bits.
When I had a similar problem, not only did the vibrations keep breaking the exhaust flange, but on one journey my starter motor fell off...
If it was me, I'd look around for a replacement gearbox, and if the front end of the propshaft is worn, replace that too. (in a bad gearbox, the propshaft can wear out where it fits in the gearbox, though that is quite rare and not easy to see)
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Thanks Ray..
God it gets more complicated!!
Guess what else I have noticed ..When Im driving along at night and I see the strange headlamps in my rear mirror,
I also notice that the speedo light kind of swings in wierd motion!!! I thought it was my eyesight playing tircks on me !!
Can a new gearbox be got ...??
PS I would have not helped the gearboxs condition when I first got Car.Was not used to gear changes and often had clouds of smoke on gear changes due to malhandling of stick.
I am now much more carefull..
Wanted Someone Like Willie to come to Ireland for two weeks. Full Board provided,teach me all about Morris Minors, Relax at night time by babysitting by daughter. Spend the days waxing and polishing my mog.
I wouldn't worry about the swinging speedo, unless it makes funny noses too - Some of them just seem to do that!
If it's making noises it may need lubrication - or the cable may need greasing.
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
The top steady is a short adjustable link rod with dished steel washers and rubber "doughnuts." It fits between a bracket under the right hand rear cylinder cover nut and another bracket secured to the battery tray/box. It's supposed to minimise engine judder I think worst using reverse gear. Hence if too slack may cause exhaust problems. If I'm not mistaken it was a retro fit and production modification to Minor 1000's. Not sure about earlier vehicles
Is there a maximum tightness for the top-steady cable (twig)? As said before in previous posts I removed the head and obviously the top-steady was put back on but I dunno how tight to have it? Is there any risk of having it too tight or just have it as tight as possible?
).