I had to replace a rubber gaitor for one of the track end rods for the MOT today. On doing so I took a photo of the ball joint as there look to be some uneven wear around the hole the ball socket sits in, see photo....[frame][/frame]
The ball is still firmly in the socket but the hole is wearing at two sides so the opening is not a round circle anymore. Is this OK, or was it never a role hole anyway? (I've never seen a new one of these)
All the track rod ends I have seen/fitted have had a round hole. I would therefore say replace the track rod end.
The pin has to work at all angles and degrees relative to the rest of the track rod end so should not wear as per your photo.
i think it will be fine - if the end was worn they would have failed it. But for all they cost - renew it if it worries you. Are the bump and rebound stops in place - and in good order - in case the suspension is overtravelling.....
So, bringing an old post up again. I had the front of the car up the other day and noticed quite a bit of wiggle room in the front wheels.... The front 'end' of the wheels move a good inch left and right..... And on inspection the movement point is the track rod end.
Recently passed MOT.
Is this movement normal? Surely there should be less movement no?... Otherwise it's hard to get a decent tracking alignment.
I replaced a steering gaitor recently which is why I've been doing some work in the area. Got the track rod end off fine and recounted the turns putting it back on etc.
Ok, there must be a knack to this, how do I tighten up the lock nut on this TRE?..... As soon as the nylon bit hits the thread then the ball joint starts turning around too and so it is no where near tight enough?
Hit the top with a hammer, not too hard. This should seat and grip the taper. Make sure the taper is clean.
Sometimes this happens if you use a nyloc nut, as the nut starts to grip the thread well before the nut is fully tightened.
Try using your ball joint splitter on top of the track rod and the fork under the steering arm so the track rod is pulled onto the TRE. Best to remove the grease nipple and put some packing on top of the TRE so as not to damage it first. Or simply tighten it up first with a plain nut then remove it and fit the nylock.
Les, your hammer suggestion is not working fur me at the moment, and unfortunately Panky I don't have a ball joint splitter......so...... How about this improvisation below, I've locked two nuts together. Both a perfect fit fur the thread. Seems nice and solid, did them quite right against each other.
If it were you, Would you be satisfied with this improvisation?[frame][/frame]
In your first pic this afternoon there looks to be a slot for a hex key in the threaded end of the tre, if that is the case then you can hold the thread and tighten up the nut.
Richard
Opinions are like people,everyone can be different.
Having got the Tre pulled up now, you should be able to undo those two nuts and put your nyloc on without the joint turning. What you've done is probably ok but if it was me I'd use the nyloc or even the original fitment of a standard Spring washer followers by a plain nut.
Mmmm, ok let me try the nylock again. Getting enough exposed thread pulled through was never the problem, it was that as soon as the nylon park of the nut came into contact with the thread, it all but got stuck and the ball joint was less resistant so that started turning instead
Another tip when fitting Nylocks in this application is to run the nylock onto a spare bolt first, this starts to form the threads in the nylon part of the locknut.
Would you be satisfied with this improvisation?[frame]