lowering front.

Discuss mechanical problems here.
Forum rules
By using this site, you agree to our rules. Please see: Terms of Use
rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

I wanted to lower the front of my car just by a 1inch or there abouts nothing drastic and was wondering what the most simplistic way of doing this is? I've read up of a couple of different options of people who have done it and some one said they can do it at the side of the road.
Would this be a job that a absolute beginner can do or should I get a mechanic to do it for me?
Many thanks rhys

The vast minority
Minor Fan
Posts: 449
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:46 pm
Location: North Yorkshire
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by The vast minority »

As roy will tell you, it takes no time at all, but you need mechanical gumption, quality tools and it helps to have a car with nice clean under bits.

I would say it's deffo not a novices task, if you have read the posts, you know how to do it, there Is not another way.

Big question though, why would you lower it?

Al
rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Oh thanks the underneath isn't a showstopper by any means but one torsion bar is new so that might help a bit,,I've got a couple of friends who own garages so I will take it to them. I want to lower it slightly because I like the look to be honest and as it's not a show car by a long shot so I don't see the harm in trying :-)

The vast minority
Minor Fan
Posts: 449
Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:46 pm
Location: North Yorkshire
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by The vast minority »

Fair doos, be sure to post before and after pics so we can all admire the changes.
Deffo get your pals to do it if you are a new DIY mechanic

Good luck
Al
rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Cheers Al,, I'll get my mate to do it for me just trying to learn as much and do as much as i can if its simple enough.
ill take some pics and put them up when it's done,

philthehill
Minor Maniac
Posts: 10768
Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:05 pm
Location: Hampshire
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: lowering front.

Post by philthehill »

If fitting new torsion bars they like new springs should be replaced in pairs.
Fitting a S/H torsion bar is acceptable so long as it is fitted to the same side as the vehicle it came off.
Torsion bars do care for being twisted the other way and can in some circumstances fail.
If you want to lower the front only a little way you can do it by using the rear adjusting plates.

bmcecosse
Minor Maniac
Posts: 46561
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:24 pm
Location: ML9
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by bmcecosse »

Don't do it. You will only smash the suspension through the inner wings.... Fill the dampers with SAE40 instead..
ImageImage
Image
rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Cheers Phil and Roy. I did only want to lower it slightly not slam it and had read one thread that said you can lower it using the adjuster plates by moving them side ti side but I didn't know if this was okay to do. Changing the oil in the dampers is on my things to do allso.

IslipMinor
Minor Legend
Posts: 2147
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
Location: Oxford, UK
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: lowering front.

Post by IslipMinor »

You will only smash the suspension through the inner wings
Not in my experience of lowering ours 45 years and 100,000+ miles ago! You do need to make sure that the bump stops at the front are in good condition and re-shape them to allow for the lowered suspension.

For around 1", the front suspension is lowered with a combination of the adjuster plates on the centre crossmember and rotating the front suspension arm by one spline - you may get enough with just the plates, if the full adjustment is available. If not, then lowering 1 spline on the torsion bar gives 1.25/1.5" (if you want less, then use the adjuster plates to reduce it slightly).

What year is the car and what do you plan to do at the back?
Richard


rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

The car is a 67 and i have seen the lowering blocks but as i just read they are 1.5inch drop so ill have to do the front the same i guess. The bump stops all seem relatively new and ill reshape and cut them down. Its the spline part of the process that I'm not sure about so I think I'll have to get some help with that part.

IslipMinor
Minor Legend
Posts: 2147
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
Location: Oxford, UK
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: lowering front.

Post by IslipMinor »

The reason I asked the age is that for the earlier 803/948 engine cars with 7-leaf springs, a very simple and free way of lowering the rear is to remove the bottom, shortest leaf, turn it upside down and refit it as the top leaf. It works against the rest of the spring leaves and lowers the rear by about 1.5/2"! Again did this 45 years ago and all still working very well.

Doesn't work with 5 leaf springs (it makes the spring too soft and would lower it too much), so lowering blocks and longer 'U' bolts are the way to go.
Richard


rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Cheers Richard for your help.

chrisryder
Minor Legend
Posts: 2217
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:44 pm
Location: West Midlands UK
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by chrisryder »

Whereabouts are you Rhys? Perhaps someone local could help you do it. Certainly if you're near me I'd happily help (South Birmingham).

A little drop of the suspension is fine, but you'll want to get the alignment checked soon afterwards as it can affect the camber and tracking.

I have ran my mine very low in the past, and ruined the inner wings as a result! So a bit higher now and all is well.

I lowered the rear an inch by using the lowering block kit but made longer rear shackle plates to raise the suspension back up a little!

Image
bmcecosse
Minor Maniac
Posts: 46561
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:24 pm
Location: ML9
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by bmcecosse »

I point out again that Richard hS stiffer torsion bars on his car. If you want it lower, fit 13'' wheels! As Richard has done....
ImageImage
Image
IslipMinor
Minor Legend
Posts: 2147
Joined: Mon May 10, 2004 9:10 pm
Location: Oxford, UK
MMOC Member: Yes

Re: lowering front.

Post by IslipMinor »

Roy, "I point out again" that the car was lowered in 1970 with standard torsion bars, at the same time as fitting 5 1/2" x 13" wheels with 165/80x13 tyres and covered 50,000+ miles in 20+ years with this configuration. We also put either SAE30 or SAE40 oil in the dampers, as is often very well recommended on this forum!

The Marina van torsion bars were not fitted until 1998, as part of the restoration. The 13" wheels were fitted with 185/70x13 tyres at this point, and again another 50,000+ miles since then with this configuration.

Both the 13" tyre sizes are very very slightly larger in diameter (rolling radius) than the original 5.20-14 cross-plies.

The point about the suspension geometry is very valid - as the car is lowered the front wheels take on increased positive camber, which is not a good thing for handling. To counteract this, the eyebolts need to be spaced out from the front chassis rail. For 1" lowering you will need to space the eyebolt out about 1/4" to 3/8", but make sure that whatever you do, the eyebolt has enough thread for the nut and spring washer, with 1 thread still showing beyond the nut. To get a hint of negative camber with our set up of ~2" lowering, I have had to make some special longer 'negative camber' eye bolts.

There is another 'spin off' benefit from spacing out the eyebolts, which is that with standard tie rods, the caster angle increases giving increased straight line stability (and slightly heavier steering effort when parking).

BMC used a 'U' shaped washer to space the eyebolt out, but these are not a good idea at all, as they allow moisture into the eyebolt tube in the chassis rail, and then corrosion etc. Use flat washers to do the spacing. The eyebolt diameter is 9/16", which is very much a 'non-preferred' size, but 14mm will do very well, while still not 'standard', there are plenty of suppliers of them on eBay.
Richard


rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

I'm located in Kidderminster so not a million miles away from you Chris and any help would be great. Are the standard lowering blocks too low or was it just personal preference??

rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Oh and thanks Richard for your info ,a lot of it I didn't understand as I'm abit thick with cars but when I eventually get the job done I'll be sure to keep it all in mind and relay it back to whoever is helping :-) Thanks again

bmcecosse
Minor Maniac
Posts: 46561
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 11:24 pm
Location: ML9
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by bmcecosse »

I bet your rear suspension, unless on newish springs, will already be too low.... You need 1.5'' clearance from the bump stops to the chassis. What doyou have now? Again, fill with SAE40 40 oil.
ImageImage
Image
rhysevans
Minor Friendly
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Mar 15, 2015 5:11 pm
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by rhysevans »

Will check tomorrow and let you know...is there a drain plug or is it a drill a hole and weld back up job??sorry if that's a obvious question :-)

chrisryder
Minor Legend
Posts: 2217
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:44 pm
Location: West Midlands UK
MMOC Member: No

Re: lowering front.

Post by chrisryder »

Kidderminster is certainly close enough for me! I'm in Longbridge.

Happy to come and have a look, and to help with anything.

Dampers have a bung in the bottom to drain the oil out. Usually best to flush them through too to get all the old oil out before refilling for good.

As for the lowering blocks on the back, yes, they were a little too low. Even with 1/2" trimmed off the bump stops it was on them far too often. Plus my wider tyres were catching the wings... :o
Post Reply