suspension springs corrosion

[dudload]

morning all!

firstly - the good news, the morris passed his MOT first time today - horray!

the bad news - there were a couple of advisories, primarily that the rear leaf springs are starting to be weakened through corrosion. what's the best way to treat this - would a wire brush scrubbing followed by some jenolite and stone chip work? i take it i'll need to avoid the points where the leaves slide over each other though?

[greendefender123]

I normally squirt them with a oil and waxoyl mix. Tho you could grease them or brush oil in. Try and get it between the springs abit, oil seems to soak in well. I did paint mine first on the traveller. Been doing this for years on my fathers vehicle's. Normally if the spring has blown with rust its had it.

[Boomlander]

Don't risk potential disaster with weakened leaf springs.
Fit new ones and keep them protected - they are not that expensive.

[philthehill]

If the corrosion is between the leaves there is not much you can do except replace them.
It is not advisable to oil worn leaf springs as the ends of the leaf have most likely worn into the underside of the leaf above.
The lubricated spring will flex more and the end of the spring leaf could then hit the end of the wear step on the underside of the leaf above; and in trying to go past the wear step with force snap the spring leaf - not too bad if it is one of the lower leafs that snap but if the top leaf snaps the axle could become displaced with dire consequences.
If you must lubricate the spring leafs - check the ends of the leafs for wearing into the underside of the leaf above and if not serious dismantle the spring and smooth out the wear with a sander.

[dudload]

right new rear leaves ordered along with new rear dampers (i refilled the current ones, but another advisory was that they're leaking from the seals) and poly bushes for the damper arm.

another job for the weekend!!

[philthehill]

Poly bushes for the spring eyes?????

Poly spring seat pad????

[dudload]

yup - got the spring leaf set with all new poly bushes for all parts of the springs.

[philthehill]

Well done.

[dudload]

thanks

just before i begin, any hints, tips, potential pitfalls I may face? Also - should the bushes be white greased or is that a no-no on rear springs?

[philthehill]

Make sure that the vehicle is secure before working under the vehicle.
Just do one side at a time.
The only problem may be with undoing the nut on the spring front pin as it does not have a hexagon/square head on its inner end to stop the pin from turning. A special two prong spanner was used by the factory to hold the inner head whilst the outer nut was done up.
Check the front pin head seat insert for wear.
Once the front pin is out I would take the opportunity to remove the insert holding bolts make sure that they are cleaned/greased and refitted as they can be a devil to get undone at the best of times this is a bit of future planning.
Leave every thing loose until the axle is seated on the spring/spring seats.
Fit self locking nuts to the 'U' bolts.
Use white or red grease on the poly bushes - it not important to grease the poly spring pads as they have no movement inter action with the axle seats.
Clean the crud out of the axle mounting seat and coat the inside of the bracket with waxol or similar.
Once the axle is seated on the spring seats/springs lightly tighten all the nuts. Carry out the final tightening when the car is back on its wheels and has been bounced up and down a few times.
If fitting new spring eye pins use those with UNF threads as they tend to have a better finish than the ones with BSF threads.

[dudload]

thanks Phil, excellent advice as always! on the front pin issue - what's the best way round without the special tool, use a spanner on the nut and hope for the best? I've got nut splitters as a last resort and i guess i've got new pins on the way so could just split straight away!

[RobThomas]

Before you start, have a good look at the quality of the new springs. I sent 4 back before getting two good enough quality to justify the cost. Cheap but they still need to be useable and safe. Check the fit of the 'eyes' to the bushes and see how well the clamps hold the springs together.

[GavinL]

Does anyone know the spacing / diameter of the pins in the special tool for the front mounting? I've got to do this job soon as Vanessa is a bit lopsided, so would like to make the tool in advance.

[Declan_Burns]

Here's my way around it. I made up a special bolt consisting of an M6 Allen screw and a bevelled washer soldered to the head. Insert it with a close fitting Allen key and it won't move. There is just about sufficient space to get an Allen key in to hold the set-up in place while threading a nylock.

Regards
Declan

[philthehill]

Declan
I do not understand your drawing.

The special tool to hold the inside face of the pin is made up from a 1/4" thick piece of flat steel x 1 1/2" wide x 9" long with two 3/16" pins fitted at 13/16" centres. The pins are fitted so as to be 3/4" from the end of the flat bar either at 90 degrees to the bar or in line with the bar - either will do.
The tool pins protrude from the flat plate & fit into the eye bolt pin by 5/32".
A 3/16" dia drill will nicely fit into the front spring eye holes by 5/32"
The dimensions requirements as quoted are taken from a NOS BL front spring eye bolt pin.

Soak the pin/pin insert and nut(s) in penetrating oil before attempting to undo the plain nut.
Phil

[dudload]

might need to pop under the car tonight before embarking on this! Declan - thanks for the suggestion, but i don't understand fully what the allen screw is screwing in to in the diagram - may become clearer once i've looked under the car though!

[philthehill]

The Allen key is the stumbling block for me as I cannot see what relevance it has or indeed the rest of Declan's tool.
There is no thread for the Allen screw to screw into as the inside face of the pin is flat with the two 3/16" holes drilled into it.
Drilling and threading the inner face of the pin for the fitment of a 6mm Allen screw seriously compromises the integratory of the eye pin as the pin is only 1/2" dia with the shoulder being only 13/32" deep.

[dudload]

yikes - so it looks like I'm almost certain to need to make/borrow a special tool to be able to get the pin out and a new one back in, as from memory this area is (ironically) pretty rust free.

is there any way round this at all (apart from if i can understand Declan's drawing) or willing to send me their improvised tool to borrow?

[philthehill]

If you have new pins arriving cut/grind the nut end off the pin (be careful not to damage the spring mount) and knock the old pin out.
Make sure that there is no tension on the spring or spring pin whilst knocking the pin out.
As much as undoing the nut is a problem holding the pin whilst doing up the nylock nut is just as much of a problem. Maybe not so bad if a plain nut and spring washer is used.

[Declan_Burns]

I borrowed this on the net to try and explain. The front hole is hard to get at when the spring is fitted. The rear hole is accessible. The locating plate with the pin fitted is then fitted and secured with a nyloc.
http://www.morrisminorspares.com/rear-s ... in-p831380

Regards
Declan