Ignition timing....again

[Mfhphil]

My question isn’t how to set the timing, but with the timing marks at the bottom of the crank pulley, how the hell am I supposed to see them to point the strobe at. I have a lower left leg prosthesis so I struggle a bit in the old bending/crawling department, so I wondered if anyone has a trick of the trade. I seem to recall years ago that a bulb with a couple of wires could be used to set the initial timing but my memory fails me beyond that.

Phil

[pgp001]

I bought a white paint marker pen and having found the correct position for TDC and the timing advance required, I made a line on the front of the timing cover and one on the crank pulley edge so they are in line when viewed from under the bonnet.
I could then use the strobe light whilst stood up and able to rev the engine with the carb linkage at the same time.

Phil

[Mfhphil]

Thanks Phil

I assume TDC on number 1 cylinder, but how would I then know where to put the advance mark reasonably accurately?

Phil

[philthehill]

Find TDC on the compression stroke and then put the marks on both the pulley and timing cover where you can see them.
So long as the marks are at TDC compression you can put them wherever you like.
These are the TDC timing marks on my Minor

100_1431.JPG (411.34 KiB) Viewed 1413 times

[Mfhphil]

Yep, I get the TDC marks but where do I paint the advance timing mark?
Sorry if it’s just me being dim

Phil

[pgp001]

If you initially use the existing timing marks under the front of the timing cover, you will find the little toothed plate has its teeth set at 5° intervals.
The Haynes manual value for timing is 5° BTDC, so line up the notch in the pulley with the first of the smaller teeth after the TDC one and then without moving anything paint a corresponding line on the timing cover where you can see it.

The 5° is just a starting point to get the distributor in the right ballpark, you may have to tweak the actual setting a bit depending on the state of tune of your particular engine until it runs sweetly.
You can get the initial setting with your strobe lamp, and so long as the fine adjustment screw on the distributor is set at is half way point when you lock the clamp up, you will be able to fine tune it by small increments whilst road testing it.

Phil

[Declan_Burns]

Phil,
Here's my solution to that problem. Easily read from the engine bay. The drawing is for a 1275 engine but the principle is the same.
Regards
Declan

[Mfhphil]

Thanks for the replies everyone, they’re really appreciated.
Declan, that’s my type of fix to a problem so I’ll give that a go. And that’s a really clean looking engine

Phil

[Declan_Burns]

The rest of it looks good too.
I am even considering selling it as I am pleased enough with the way the Moggy is running as it is. I am only out of hospital after 4 months stay and am not up to doing engine swops at the moment.
Regards
Declan

[Mfhphil]

Sorry Declan, we’ve had a few days away, so only just seen the picture, and the engine looks stunning. Has it had internal work done as well?

Phil

[Declan_Burns]

Phil,
Yes, re-bored, new mains,big ends, thrust washers etc. Core plugs, oil galleries cleaned and taper plugs fitted. Engine plates cad plated, new clutch and oil pump. New valves guides and top hat seals etc etc. Extension for pressure gauge, engine re-painted and the notorious crankshaft seal fitted.
Duplex chain. Distributor repaired by the "distributor doctor" Martin Jay. HIF 44
All in all a labour of love.

Regards
Declan